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Hi All Installed a trans cooler and a magnefine inline tx filter. 2021 Rav4 LE. Should be the same for all 2019+ Ravs.

Parts:
$30 : A simple 2 pass tubular cooler off amazon: the hayden 1012 (link Amazon.com )
Came with a 16 inch long 2.5 inch high tubed and fined cooler, plastic brackets (didn't use), 2 "stab thru" plastic zip holders, 4- 1/2 feet of hose (did not use). 4 hose clamps that could work but they are thin band and have a small 6mm/phillips screw head (didn't use)

$24 - 2x 3ft 3/8" I.D. Gates transmission hoses (these are solid af), from the leftovers of using my gates hoses: 4-1/2 feet included hose might be barely enough, but it will be a hard install over those nipples cuz its a tick smaller 5/16" ID. If you are not installing the magnefine you could place the cooler closer, for magnefine install too it might be just a hair too short. But i actually suggest 2x 3ft hoses because I attache the hoses and filter before mounting the filter, its really hard to put the hayden's stock hose on. Get legit 3/8s inch ID tranny hose, don't worry it won't leak, it will actually be hard to install over the coolers barbs too!) Amazon.com

$7 - 4x 1/2" width 5/16" - 1" range home depot band clamps (8mm heads/slotted). This is important soo easy to stick a slotted or 8mm socket in there some day to tighten them if they leak, you will thank me bc biting down wider band hose clamps don't leak bro! This is not my first TX cooler or magnefine folks!

$20 - magnefine filter 3/8 tranny filter. A word about the magnefine, get it from their website, there are half priced knock offs on ebay, and amazon, well amazon sometimes can be dodgey too. you want a legit steel cased unit. I will run in 50k miles in my rav (only have 5k orig miles). If you're rav is higher milage you might want to swap at 30K mi because yours will has more wear material floating in your trans than my new one, unless you have done major fluid changes or something. https://www.magnefinefilters.com/NE...-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R038M-3810000.htm

$15 - 1 Qt Toyota WS - visit your local Toyota dealer and bend over the counter, they will know what to do.

$17 Slippery pete wide mouth bottle pump - https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pete-Fluid-GALLON-BOTTLES/dp/B07DTS8N7P/ref=sr_1_5?crid=R65UUCX3QAB6&keywords=slippery+pete+fluid+pump+wide+mouth&qid=1657097135&s=automotive&sprefix=slippery+pete+fluid+pump+widem+mouth,automotive,68&sr=1-5

$ 9 - Craftsman 24 mm SHORT socket (blued, purchases from Lowes) a long socket might not let you get in there. maybe a 24 mm big ass wrench could work here too (to open the fill port of the tranny)

$25 - 1/2 drive 15 inch handle breaker bar.

i connected the gates hose to the cooler and the magnefine before installing it. When it comes to the clamps, i suggest you tighted the bands till they bite into the hoses a tiny amount. you should be able to run your finger over the clamp band and just barely feel the hose thru the slots on the clamp band. If the hose is "pimpling" through the slots this is too tight! i suggest you cut out that inch of hose and reset.

putting the hose on the nipple, i dipped a screw driver in some recently drained rav4 motor oil and wet the barb (nipple) this makes the hose go on easier, twisting helps too. be sure the clamp is atleast a 1/4 of an inche off the nipple. too close to the nipple it won't clamp down flat. don't worry if its close to the edge of the hose, as long as it has a few mm to the edge of the hose, your good. these are wider band clamps.

now get under your rav. We will be placing this 2 pass in the lower air scoop. I already modded my lower air scoop by buying a sheet of black wire aluminum gutter guard from home depot and cutting it with wire shears and zip tying it in the lower air scoop ( the 3 inch high air intake just below your ravs front bumper)

1) remove the wind deflector under the front bumper:
picture take from under the front bumper looking forward
Hood Automotive tire Vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


See what i'm pointing to, remove that too. those 3 steel bolts and 2 more black hex/philips on each far side

Hood Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Composite material

This is the cooler, with the install magnefine we must place this all the way on the passenger side. without a little closer to driver, but still more over to passenger. The tranny cooler lines are on the side of the tranny on the drivers side.
2) place it:
Grille Automotive tire Asphalt Bumper Automotive exterior

example where to place it without magnefine install. you can see the gutter guard mod zip tyed on in front of the plastic air vents. If you dont' want to do the gutter guard you can use zip ties instead of the stab through hangers. wrap the zip tie over the grill vents and tie it to the pipage of the cooler on either side.
Grille Automotive tire Rectangle Mesh Automotive exterior


3)
reinstalled the air dam. this plastic piece pipes air from the lower scoop thru to the condensor/radiator. people install these things on their ac condensor I think thats a bad idea. those things are delicate these days, i think this on the air scoop. the air dam seals this all in, whenever the fan runs, it does pull air through the lower air scoop, its like a wind tunnel right to the condensor and radiator. see where i ran the 2 hoses down? the magnefine is right above that slot, like not even an inch, be sure to 2x check the arrow of flow coming thru the magenfine the right way (i put mine on the return hose).

Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part



before road testing for leaks remove or bolt back those plastic splash or mud or whatever guards directly in front of your tires, i damaged them when testing this, wind bent em into the tire and went burr'd on em.

Grille Automotive tire Rectangle Mesh Automotive exterior


from the front: ya'll can't even see the magnefine in this pic, but its on the lower barb. fluid into the cooler from the top barb (send line), exit bottom barb --> 4 inch of free bendable hose --> magnefine ---> return to tranny

4) test flow direction you see the return hose hanging down to the floor in #3. that cuz when i connect the send hose to the tranny, i will start the rav for a hot 5 seconds to see fluid flow out of it. regardless of any blueprints i suggest you confirm the fluid flow by cranking her over and seeing the fluid actually shoot out of your return hose.

5) connections: Lookin to the rear of the vehicle on the driver side, they are the first tranny elbow:
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle


(Mr Data can you enhance the view screeen?)
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Automotive design


The long aluminum tranny hose on the right and angled to the floor is the send hose, the one on the left angled to the sky is the return.
Connect: use a small needle nose, or short grip flat head pliers to pinch the spring clamps. i found the square flat faced pliers worked better than the needle nose. i saved that oem elbo hose in case i want to delete this mod, but i reused the toyota spring clamps on the gates hose. just remember to motor oil the inside of the mouth of those hoses at least 2 inches deep. you gotta really push and spin to get them on. if you can't from undernear, just go up top and remove the air filter box. its very easy from up top , but i didn't want to remove the air intake box. i have thin wimpy man arms and hand. if you have full man hands and forearms you might want to ask your wife to do this part (by that i mean you will take out the air box and do it from above yourself).

again i JUST connected the send line then put the return line in a drain pan and cranked the engine over. in about 5 seconds i think a pint of fluid came out. then i cut and connected the return line.

I added 1 qt of toyota ws using a Slippery Pete Fluid Pump Wide Mouth Bottles
I liked this one, it has a nozzle that kinda sticks into the fill port.

Use a 24 mm wrech or short socket to open the tranny fill port (ACTUALLY: loosen this fill bolt before you start the job so you KNOW you can top off the tranny, lol)
The fill bolt is the only 24 mm bolt on the side of the tranny its in front of the driver wheel about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the tranny case. it has a WS marking, that means world standard toyota trans fluid (not multi-vehicle maxlife mystery "suitable" all standards fluid, don't be that guy. Instead get rooked for the 1 qt at toyota like you're suppose to.)

6) level the car and when the tranny is cool (like room temp), start it and run it for 3 minutes and move thru some gears (getting it slightly warm), then leave it running in park (with brake on) and get under it and drain the excess tx fluid by removing the over flow drain cap on the pan. Drain the excess: you remove that plug and then very quickly be ready to slap it back on and spin it down as soon as the fluid flow narrows to a tight beam (slow drain).

This cooler adn the steel magnefine can work great. they seem like they knock tranny temps down about 10-20 degrees F from where they were depending on whether i run AC (keeps radiator fan on which pulls air in from the scoop ~15-20 degrees cooling) or just idling w/o any ac and the rad fan not running ~10 deg cooler. Trans has dropped from 200-210 pre-cooler it was in hot 95 deg ambient temp driving to about 185- 200 deg (200 max when TRYING to stress it hard) in hot texas butt burns into the seat weather.

Enjoy!
 

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Just did the same on my Gen3, but with a bigger radiator.
From a max of 210掳F in stop and go traffic, ambient temps in 90-100掳F range, now I have seen a max of 183掳F.
 

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Thanks for the write up. My one suggestion is to run the lines around the radiator at the side, not below. It wont take much effort to cut a line from road debris On the underside of the radiator and end up coasting to a stop when the ATF runs dry

tell me this. Did you connect the new cooler before or after the factory cooler?
Product World Human body Slope Organism
 

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tell me this. Did you connect the new cooler before or after the factory cooler?
It has to be after the heat exchanger, otherwise you are trying to cool the engine too. And that will lead to thermostat closing and "compensating" for the extra cooler by cooling less the engine and transmission.
Like the picture shows.

Also, the coolant flow as to enter the bottom of additional cooler, and exit trough the top, to take any trapped air pockets "out".
 

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Hi All Installed a trans cooler and a magnefine inline tx filter. 2021 Rav4 LE. Should be the same for all 2019+ Ravs.

Parts:
$30 : A simple 2 pass tubular cooler off amazon: the hayden 1012 (link Amazon.com )
Came with a 16 inch long 2.5 inch high tubed and fined cooler, plastic brackets (didn't use), 2 "stab thru" plastic zip holders, 4- 1/2 feet of hose (did not use). 4 hose clamps that could work but they are thin band and have a small 6mm/phillips screw head (didn't use)

$24 - 2x 3ft 3/8" I.D. Gates transmission hoses (these are solid af), from the leftovers of using my gates hoses: 4-1/2 feet included hose might be barely enough, but it will be a hard install over those nipples cuz its a tick smaller 5/16" ID. If you are not installing the magnefine you could place the cooler closer, for magnefine install too it might be just a hair too short. But i actually suggest 2x 3ft hoses because I attache the hoses and filter before mounting the filter, its really hard to put the hayden's stock hose on. Get legit 3/8s inch ID tranny hose, don't worry it won't leak, it will actually be hard to install over the coolers barbs too!) Amazon.com

$7 - 4x 1/2" width 5/16" - 1" range home depot band clamps (8mm heads/slotted). This is important soo easy to stick a slotted or 8mm socket in there some day to tighten them if they leak, you will thank me bc biting down wider band hose clamps don't leak bro! This is not my first TX cooler or magnefine folks!

$20 - magnefine filter 3/8 tranny filter. A word about the magnefine, get it from their website, there are half priced knock offs on ebay, and amazon, well amazon sometimes can be dodgey too. you want a legit steel cased unit. I will run in 50k miles in my rav (only have 5k orig miles). If you're rav is higher milage you might want to swap at 30K mi because yours will has more wear material floating in your trans than my new one, unless you have done major fluid changes or something. https://www.magnefinefilters.com/NE...-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R038M-3810000.htm

$15 - 1 Qt Toyota WS - visit your local Toyota dealer and bend over the counter, they will know what to do.

$17 Slippery pete wide mouth bottle pump - https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pete-Fluid-GALLON-BOTTLES/dp/B07DTS8N7P/ref=sr_1_5?crid=R65UUCX3QAB6&keywords=slippery+pete+fluid+pump+wide+mouth&qid=1657097135&s=automotive&sprefix=slippery+pete+fluid+pump+widem+mouth,automotive,68&sr=1-5

$ 9 - Craftsman 24 mm SHORT socket (blued, purchases from Lowes) a long socket might not let you get in there. maybe a 24 mm big ass wrench could work here too (to open the fill port of the tranny)

$25 - 1/2 drive 15 inch handle breaker bar.

i connected the gates hose to the cooler and the magnefine before installing it. When it comes to the clamps, i suggest you tighted the bands till they bite into the hoses a tiny amount. you should be able to run your finger over the clamp band and just barely feel the hose thru the slots on the clamp band. If the hose is "pimpling" through the slots this is too tight! i suggest you cut out that inch of hose and reset.

putting the hose on the nipple, i dipped a screw driver in some recently drained rav4 motor oil and wet the barb (nipple) this makes the hose go on easier, twisting helps too. be sure the clamp is atleast a 1/4 of an inche off the nipple. too close to the nipple it won't clamp down flat. don't worry if its close to the edge of the hose, as long as it has a few mm to the edge of the hose, your good. these are wider band clamps.

now get under your rav. We will be placing this 2 pass in the lower air scoop. I already modded my lower air scoop by buying a sheet of black wire aluminum gutter guard from home depot and cutting it with wire shears and zip tying it in the lower air scoop ( the 3 inch high air intake just below your ravs front bumper)

1) remove the wind deflector under the front bumper:
picture take from under the front bumper looking forward View attachment 184434

See what i'm pointing to, remove that too. those 3 steel bolts and 2 more black hex/philips on each far side

View attachment 184433
This is the cooler, with the install magnefine we must place this all the way on the passenger side. without a little closer to driver, but still more over to passenger. The tranny cooler lines are on the side of the tranny on the drivers side.
2) place it:
View attachment 184435
example where to place it without magnefine install. you can see the gutter guard mod zip tyed on in front of the plastic air vents. If you dont' want to do the gutter guard you can use zip ties instead of the stab through hangers. wrap the zip tie over the grill vents and tie it to the pipage of the cooler on either side.
View attachment 184436

3)
reinstalled the air dam. this plastic piece pipes air from the lower scoop thru to the condensor/radiator. people install these things on their ac condensor I think thats a bad idea. those things are delicate these days, i think this on the air scoop. the air dam seals this all in, whenever the fan runs, it does pull air through the lower air scoop, its like a wind tunnel right to the condensor and radiator. see where i ran the 2 hoses down? the magnefine is right above that slot, like not even an inch, be sure to 2x check the arrow of flow coming thru the magenfine the right way (i put mine on the return hose).

View attachment 184437


before road testing for leaks remove or bolt back those plastic splash or mud or whatever guards directly in front of your tires, i damaged them when testing this, wind bent em into the tire and went burr'd on em.

View attachment 184438

from the front: ya'll can't even see the magnefine in this pic, but its on the lower barb. fluid into the cooler from the top barb (send line), exit bottom barb --> 4 inch of free bendable hose --> magnefine ---> return to tranny

4) test flow direction you see the return hose hanging down to the floor in #3. that cuz when i connect the send hose to the tranny, i will start the rav for a hot 5 seconds to see fluid flow out of it. regardless of any blueprints i suggest you confirm the fluid flow by cranking her over and seeing the fluid actually shoot out of your return hose.

5) connections: Lookin to the rear of the vehicle on the driver side, they are the first tranny elbow:
View attachment 184439

(Mr Data can you enhance the view screeen?)
View attachment 184440

The long aluminum tranny hose on the right and angled to the floor is the send hose, the one on the left angled to the sky is the return.
Connect: use a small needle nose, or short grip flat head pliers to pinch the spring clamps. i found the square flat faced pliers worked better than the needle nose. i saved that oem elbo hose in case i want to delete this mod, but i reused the toyota spring clamps on the gates hose. just remember to motor oil the inside of the mouth of those hoses at least 2 inches deep. you gotta really push and spin to get them on. if you can't from undernear, just go up top and remove the air filter box. its very easy from up top , but i didn't want to remove the air intake box. i have thin wimpy man arms and hand. if you have full man hands and forearms you might want to ask your wife to do this part (by that i mean you will take out the air box and do it from above yourself).

again i JUST connected the send line then put the return line in a drain pan and cranked the engine over. in about 5 seconds i think a pint of fluid came out. then i cut and connected the return line.

I added 1 qt of toyota ws using a Slippery Pete Fluid Pump Wide Mouth Bottles
I liked this one, it has a nozzle that kinda sticks into the fill port.

Use a 24 mm wrech or short socket to open the tranny fill port (ACTUALLY: loosen this fill bolt before you start the job so you KNOW you can top off the tranny, lol)
The fill bolt is the only 24 mm bolt on the side of the tranny its in front of the driver wheel about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the tranny case. it has a WS marking, that means world standard toyota trans fluid (not multi-vehicle maxlife mystery "suitable" all standards fluid, don't be that guy. Instead get rooked for the 1 qt at toyota like you're suppose to.)

6) level the car and when the tranny is cool (like room temp), start it and run it for 3 minutes and move thru some gears (getting it slightly warm), then leave it running in park (with brake on) and get under it and drain the excess tx fluid by removing the over flow drain cap on the pan. Drain the excess: you remove that plug and then very quickly be ready to slap it back on and spin it down as soon as the fluid flow narrows to a tight beam (slow drain).

This cooler adn the steel magnefine can work great. they seem like they knock tranny temps down about 10-20 degrees F from where they were depending on whether i run AC (keeps radiator fan on which pulls air in from the scoop ~15-20 degrees cooling) or just idling w/o any ac and the rad fan not running ~10 deg cooler. Trans has dropped from 200-210 pre-cooler it was in hot 95 deg ambient temp driving to about 185- 200 deg (200 max when TRYING to stress it hard) in hot texas butt burns into the seat weather.

Enjoy!
Excellent write up thanks. Very interesting thumbs 馃憤 I may try this out.
 
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