I have a 2009 RAV4 now.
Transmission Cooler Install
For those that want to consider installing a transmission cooler for your automatic transmission look no further. Although my 2005 RAV4 already has a small tranny cooler stock I decided an additional aftermarket tranny cooler will greatly reduce heat from the tranny fluid.
The cooler I bought was the B & M Super Cooler Model 70268. I selected this one due to the fact it has a low pressure drop feature. The coolers assembled with hose barb ends include a unique bypass feature allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stack plate core when the fluid is cold. This is beneficial in cold climate areas to guard against lube system failure. Another
plus is this cooler fits perfectly on my RAV4.
Parts:
B & M Super Cooler Model 70268
Extra tranny cooler hose (4 ft.) 3/8 inch
4 stainless steel screw, washer, and nut
Magnefine Inline Transmission Filter 3/8
Additional hose clamps (2) for Magnefine Filter
Metal strap from Home Depot
Rivets
Black rust paint
Equipment:
Drill & drill bit
Riveter Gun
Phillips
10 mm Socket & wrench
Linesman Plier
To begin you need to figure out how long to make your bracket that will be used to attach to the condenser frame. I should of made the position of my cooler an inch higher after I finished I realized it was a bit low. You will need to take the grill off by removing 3 screws and then pushing with a flat screw driver 3 tabs at the bottom of the grill. (one on the left , another in the middle and the last one on the right - all bottom). Once you push the tab just pull the grill out slowly. Once you have the grill off you can slide your cooler in front of the condenser to see how long to cut the length of your brackets. The top bracket should be ok with the supplied four bracket. The bottom bracket you will need to buy longer brackets which you can get at Home Depot in the construction framing section. I rivet my brackets on so they would be flush up against the condenser unit. The supplied bolts are too big that came with the cooler. Make sure to rivet the brackets with the anchor part facing away from the condenser. If you like you can make the brackets a little bit longer and then cut off the excess after you remove the bumper and double check the correct length. Now rivet the brackets. At this point you can spray paint the bracket with black rust paint and let it dry.
The next step is removing the bumper to install the new tranny cooler. This is a necessary step as there is no access to drill the bottom holes for the bracket which otherwise would have been more easier. Remove the bumper by first taking off the screws on the top of the grill as mention earlier. The grill itself does not have to be removed. Next you need to unbolt the three 10 mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper. Go to the passenger side and remove that plastic Phillips screw. Then pull the fender cover and it will reveal a second hidden 10mm bolt (close to the front) and unbolt that. Do the same on the driver side.
Now you need to remove the center clips on the left and the right that holds the grill body. This part is very difficult and you need a flat screw driver to pop those stubborn sucker off. If not careful those clips can break while being removed. Luckily they are only $15 for a pair if you ever break them. After you remove the pair of clips you can pull off the bumper.
Take the tranny cooler and position it about an inch from the top of the condenser. Drill a hole on the top edge of the condenser frame. Be careful you drill only on the frame not on the condenser. Ensure it is smack in the center and do not drill past the metal. Now put a screw and nut on. Do the other side and drill another hole. Never drill both holes before mounting it on otherwise your holes may not align up. With the top screwed on drill the bottom holes and bolt it on. Looking at my picture the cooler should only be mounted similar to the picture. At this point you can cut off any excess length mounting strap. Connect the tranny hoses and clamps. Add a bit of transmission fluid to make it go in easier. The top hose should connect to the return line (A1) and the bottom line connects to the transmission (B1). Reroute all the hoses around the front you will see a hole that goes to the engine. Reinstall the bumper.
Locate the factory transmission cooler which is next to the transmission dip stick. It looks like a hockey puck with four hoses. The right furthest hose is the hose you want to remove. It is the return line which is a foot long. Take the clamp off the top and bottom. The top is easy to remove but the bottom one has limited space. You may need to remove the bottom plastic cover shield to take the clamp off. Connect the hose from the top of the new cooler to the return line. Next connect the bottom hose to the line to the transmission. At this point I added a Magnefine transmission filter between the transmission. It is not necessary but improves in filtering metal particals.
Remember these steps are only for RAV4 for 2004-2005 with an automatic transmission. (not manual transmission).
Check fluid and look for leaks. You may need to add less than a 1/2 litre or so of ATF.
The cooler I bought was the B & M Super Cooler Model 70268. I selected this one due to the fact it has a low pressure drop feature. The coolers assembled with hose barb ends include a unique bypass feature allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stack plate core when the fluid is cold. This is beneficial in cold climate areas to guard against lube system failure. Another
plus is this cooler fits perfectly on my RAV4.
Parts:
B & M Super Cooler Model 70268
Extra tranny cooler hose (4 ft.) 3/8 inch
4 stainless steel screw, washer, and nut
Magnefine Inline Transmission Filter 3/8
Additional hose clamps (2) for Magnefine Filter
Metal strap from Home Depot
Rivets
Black rust paint
Equipment:
Drill & drill bit
Riveter Gun
Phillips
10 mm Socket & wrench
Linesman Plier
To begin you need to figure out how long to make your bracket that will be used to attach to the condenser frame. I should of made the position of my cooler an inch higher after I finished I realized it was a bit low. You will need to take the grill off by removing 3 screws and then pushing with a flat screw driver 3 tabs at the bottom of the grill. (one on the left , another in the middle and the last one on the right - all bottom). Once you push the tab just pull the grill out slowly. Once you have the grill off you can slide your cooler in front of the condenser to see how long to cut the length of your brackets. The top bracket should be ok with the supplied four bracket. The bottom bracket you will need to buy longer brackets which you can get at Home Depot in the construction framing section. I rivet my brackets on so they would be flush up against the condenser unit. The supplied bolts are too big that came with the cooler. Make sure to rivet the brackets with the anchor part facing away from the condenser. If you like you can make the brackets a little bit longer and then cut off the excess after you remove the bumper and double check the correct length. Now rivet the brackets. At this point you can spray paint the bracket with black rust paint and let it dry.
The next step is removing the bumper to install the new tranny cooler. This is a necessary step as there is no access to drill the bottom holes for the bracket which otherwise would have been more easier. Remove the bumper by first taking off the screws on the top of the grill as mention earlier. The grill itself does not have to be removed. Next you need to unbolt the three 10 mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper. Go to the passenger side and remove that plastic Phillips screw. Then pull the fender cover and it will reveal a second hidden 10mm bolt (close to the front) and unbolt that. Do the same on the driver side.
Now you need to remove the center clips on the left and the right that holds the grill body. This part is very difficult and you need a flat screw driver to pop those stubborn sucker off. If not careful those clips can break while being removed. Luckily they are only $15 for a pair if you ever break them. After you remove the pair of clips you can pull off the bumper.
Take the tranny cooler and position it about an inch from the top of the condenser. Drill a hole on the top edge of the condenser frame. Be careful you drill only on the frame not on the condenser. Ensure it is smack in the center and do not drill past the metal. Now put a screw and nut on. Do the other side and drill another hole. Never drill both holes before mounting it on otherwise your holes may not align up. With the top screwed on drill the bottom holes and bolt it on. Looking at my picture the cooler should only be mounted similar to the picture. At this point you can cut off any excess length mounting strap. Connect the tranny hoses and clamps. Add a bit of transmission fluid to make it go in easier. The top hose should connect to the return line (A1) and the bottom line connects to the transmission (B1). Reroute all the hoses around the front you will see a hole that goes to the engine. Reinstall the bumper.
Locate the factory transmission cooler which is next to the transmission dip stick. It looks like a hockey puck with four hoses. The right furthest hose is the hose you want to remove. It is the return line which is a foot long. Take the clamp off the top and bottom. The top is easy to remove but the bottom one has limited space. You may need to remove the bottom plastic cover shield to take the clamp off. Connect the hose from the top of the new cooler to the return line. Next connect the bottom hose to the line to the transmission. At this point I added a Magnefine transmission filter between the transmission. It is not necessary but improves in filtering metal particals.
Remember these steps are only for RAV4 for 2004-2005 with an automatic transmission. (not manual transmission).
Check fluid and look for leaks. You may need to add less than a 1/2 litre or so of ATF.
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Julius all the connection are in my thread.
Assuming you are installing your after market cooler like the way I did mine (side ways).
Top of aftermarket cooler line (inlet) goes to factory cooler (A1 line which is the top hose to the right on the factory cooler)
Bottom of aftermarket cooler line (outlet) goes to bottom of return line which is the outlet nipple on the transmission. (B1 Just follow that hose to the transmission see picture below) You will not be able to use the original hose which will be too short so get rid of it.
So basically you are just disconnecting only 1 hose from the factory transmission cooler which is the return line and connecting the lines to your aftermarket cooler.
The picture below show the bottom of the return line from a Gen3 model but should be similar to Gen2 models. If you pull that hose off there will be a metal nipple which is connected to the transmission.
Assuming you are installing your after market cooler like the way I did mine (side ways).
Top of aftermarket cooler line (inlet) goes to factory cooler (A1 line which is the top hose to the right on the factory cooler)
Bottom of aftermarket cooler line (outlet) goes to bottom of return line which is the outlet nipple on the transmission. (B1 Just follow that hose to the transmission see picture below) You will not be able to use the original hose which will be too short so get rid of it.
So basically you are just disconnecting only 1 hose from the factory transmission cooler which is the return line and connecting the lines to your aftermarket cooler.
The picture below show the bottom of the return line from a Gen3 model but should be similar to Gen2 models. If you pull that hose off there will be a metal nipple which is connected to the transmission.
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21 - 23 of 23 Posts
