Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I've posted on here with similar questions. I've got a 2006 4WD Limited addition in near-mint condition with all factory records, original factory sticker and gas mileage log included for every gallon of gas that ever went in the vehicle since new. 105,000 miles and no transmission or differential service has been performed. I figure its about time after 5 months of ownership. After reading the wealth of info on here, and piecing it all together, here is what I've come up with as far as my first fluid change:

1. A pan drop and drain fill will use about 4.5 quarts of fluid. WS seems to be the way to go. I've got a Beck Arnley replacement filter and seal. Replacing the fluid in the torque converter would require a machine flush, which Im not sure I want to do. A trusted family mechanic will be doing the work.

2. The front differential is located in the transmission and any lubrication is taken care of by the transmission fluid change.

3. Transfer case requires about .5 quart of gear oil. Mobil 1 75-90w should be fine.

4. Rear differential same as transfer case.

I think I'm right about this - if not, all advice is welcome.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
A full flush does not require a machine flush brecchi. The 'trick' is, after draining the trans pan, (and cleaning it + magnets), replace the filter, new gasket etc., top up the trans with about 4.5 litres of new oil. Then follow the instructions below. It really is a two man job, but well worth it. I used WS the first time, but next time I'll be using a 'good' fully synthetic trans oil! ATF WS is not synthetic! Give it a go.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/244825-transmission-filter-correct-part.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
Hello, I've posted on here with similar questions. I've got a 2006 4WD Limited addition in near-mint condition with all factory records, original factory sticker and gas mileage log included for every gallon of gas that ever went in the vehicle since new. 105,000 miles and no transmission or differential service has been performed. I figure its about time after 5 months of ownership. After reading the wealth of info on here, and piecing it all together, here is what I've come up with as far as my first fluid change:

1. A pan drop and drain fill will use about 4.5 quarts of fluid. WS seems to be the way to go. I've got a Beck Arnley replacement filter and seal. Replacing the fluid in the torque converter would require a machine flush, which Im not sure I want to do. A trusted family mechanic will be doing the work.

2. The front differential is located in the transmission and any lubrication is taken care of by the transmission fluid change.

I also recommend blue thread locker for those transmission bolts since you don't wants any leaks.

3. Transfer case requires about .5 quart of gear oil. Mobil 1 75-90w should be fine.

4. Rear differential same as transfer case.

I think I'm right about this - if not, all advice is welcome.

Thanks.

The transmission drain and fill uses 4.5 litres and dropping the pan is another .75 litres. The transfer case and rear differential both use about .5 litre each.
You need to convert my litres to quarts since we have metric here in Canada.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I see brecchi you have a V6. It probably takes more fluid, as my 4 cyl 2007 took 4.5 litres drain and fill. But, the following instructions will replace ALL the trans fluid!
After doing the initial drain & fill, DO NOT start the engine!!!! All this will achieve is to mix your new fluid with the old fluid, which we don't want!
Find the fluid return line at the trans. Mine was the lower hose (see pic). With the car still on ramps or a hoist, remove the return line hose clip, and push a 3/8" (10mm) piece of pipe (I used copper), up the return line, then connect a length of clear 3/8" plastic tubing to the pipe. (see pics). Direct the end of this plastic tube to a bucket that has measurements on the side, so you can measure 3 quarts (3 litres).
Now get a friend to start the car in Neutral 'N.' Now as the engine runs, it WILL start pumping the OLD dirty oil out of the torque convertor, this is what we want! While watching the dirty fluid come out into the bucket, tell your mate to turn the engine off when you have 3 litres of dirty oil in the bucket.
Now, add 3 litres of new oil to the trans. REPEAT this procedure until the fluid turns clean and red. You need a LOT of trans fluid, I bought 16 litres, but used about 14 litres plus in my 4 cyl.
You can use ATF WS if you want, but I wouldn't! It's not Synthetic.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
i haven't changed fluid in a trans. for a long time, but you used to have a cover at the bottom of the flywheel and converter. You could remove the cover and see the convertor. You would then pry the eng. to get to a plug on the bottom of the convertor to take out and drain the converter. I would think you should still be able to do this, because that's the only way to get at the bolts to remove the transmission .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
i haven't changed fluid in a trans. for a long time, but you used to have a cover at the bottom of the flywheel and converter. You could remove the cover and see the convertor. You would then pry the eng. to get to a plug on the bottom of the convertor to take out and drain the converter. I would think you should still be able to do this, because that's the only way to get at the bolts to remove the transmission .
That would not be practical doing this on a RAV4 due to it is in the engine area which takes a long time to remove. The fastest and easiest way to remove the fluid from the torque converter is doing a flush through the return line as mention in post #5.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,495 Posts
i haven't changed fluid in a trans. for a long time, but you used to have a cover at the bottom of the flywheel and converter. You could remove the cover and see the convertor. You would then pry the eng. to get to a plug on the bottom of the convertor to take out and drain the converter. I would think you should still be able to do this, because that's the only way to get at the bolts to remove the transmission .
Ah yes, I remember those days well! Alas not anymore I'm afraid.:crying
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I see brecchi you have a V6. It probably takes more fluid, as my 4 cyl 2007 took 4.5 litres drain and fill. But, the following instructions will replace ALL the trans fluid!
After doing the initial drain & fill, DO NOT start the engine!!!! All this will achieve is to mix your new fluid with the old fluid, which we don't want!
Find the fluid return line at the trans. Mine was the lower hose (see pic). With the car still on ramps or a hoist, remove the return line hose clip, and push a 3/8" (10mm) piece of pipe (I used copper), up the return line, then connect a length of clear 3/8" plastic tubing to the pipe. (see pics). Direct the end of this plastic tube to a bucket that has measurements on the side, so you can measure 3 quarts (3 litres).
Now get a friend to start the car in Neutral 'N.' Now as the engine runs, it WILL start pumping the OLD dirty oil out of the torque convertor, this is what we want! While watching the dirty fluid come out into the bucket, tell your mate to turn the engine off when you have 3 litres of dirty oil in the bucket.
Now, add 3 litres of new oil to the trans. REPEAT this procedure until the fluid turns clean and red. You need a LOT of trans fluid, I bought 16 litres, but used about 14 litres plus in my 4 cyl.
You can use ATF WS if you want, but I wouldn't! It's not Synthetic.
Thanks for this, and to all you guys for the input. As luck would have it, I have access to a lift and an extra set of hands to help me out so I think I'll tackle this myself with fingers crossed.

Just one more stupid question - I know that checking trans fluid is a lot more "exact" than checking oil for example. Is there a specific procedure you guys use to make sure the proper amount of fluid is replaced when doing a flush?

Thanks,
Ben
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Thanks for this, and to all you guys for the input. As luck would have it, I have access to a lift and an extra set of hands to help me out so I think I'll tackle this myself with fingers crossed.

Just one more stupid question - I know that checking trans fluid is a lot more "exact" than checking oil for example. Is there a specific procedure you guys use to make sure the proper amount of fluid is replaced when doing a flush?

Thanks,
Ben
What oil have you decided on brecchi? Going to use full synthetic? (Don't forget, Toyota ATF WS is not). Please make sure it's WS compatible.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic ATF is WS compatible. (not the other one).

No specific procedure brecchi. If you keep replacing the amount of fluid drained with new fluid, you'll be ok, BUT, best not to overfill. Better to be slightly low on fluid, take the car for a run (10 miles should do), run through ALL the gears manually, then check fluid level, you'll probably need to add a bit.
I keep mine right on the top mark on the trans dipstick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
It's best to drop the trans pan, clean the magnets, replace the trans filter, pan gasket etc., and torque everything up to specs, replace the drained trans fluid, BEFORE doing the full trans flush.

For example, my 2007 4 cyl Rav, when drained and pan/magnets cleaned, new filter etc., 4.5 litres old trans fluid taken out, so that amount was replaced before we did the flush :)

Valvoline also market a full synthetic trans fluid that's Toyota WS compatible, http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hey B.A.H., thanks for the detailed input. Sounds straightforward enough - I'll drop the pan, clean, replace filter, tighten up and replace fluid. Then the torque converter flush as per your instructions. I'm guessing about 3 cycles should be good.

After the initial refill, can I just pour in and check the level using the dipstick without doing anything else? For the torque converter flush, I'm planning to drain exactly 3 quarts and then pour in 3, avoiding checking levels between fills. Then the final check after all the new fluid is in using the standard running through the gearshift after getting the car up to operating temperature. I do want to be careful about doing this part right, so sorry if I sound like a broken record...


I was pretty set on WS since I figure you can't go wrong with factory fluid. Especially since its just going to mix with exactly whats in there already. But it is pretty tempting to go with the Valvoline synthetic for half the price, especially if Im doing the full flush. I've read all the trans oil threads on here and I don't want to start another one of those. But I would appreciate hearing if anyone has had any less than desirable effects from switching to the Valvoline. You've got me thinking about switching for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
But it is pretty tempting to go with the Valvoline synthetic for half the price, especially if Im doing the full flush. I've read all the trans oil threads on here and I don't want to start another one of those. But I would appreciate hearing if anyone has had any less than desirable effects from switching to the Valvoline. You've got me thinking about switching for sure.

I am using Valvoline MaxLife since August 2016 and so far no problems in summer or winter. I had to Google to find out and in the Tacoma forums many were using it on WS spec transmission with good results at over 50,000 miles or more. There are over 3 members here at RAV4WORLD I read that have no problems using Valvoline. I think one member here has 100,000 miles on Valvoline Maxlife.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top