Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm approaching 100,000km and it appears my transmission fluid is a little dark. I got all the "How to" down to a science however, I cannot 100% confirm the correct part number for the transmission filter. I've searched on eBay and part #3533008010 is said not to fit my 2012 Sport i4 (2500cc 16 valve). It's said to fit the v6 but not the 4 cylinder. Below is the only site that says the part will fit. #3533008010: STRAINER ASSEMBLY, VALVE BODY OIL. STRAINER

Anyone able to confirm the correct part number?
 

·
Your Humble Administrator
2008 RAV4 Limited V6
Joined
·
16,712 Posts
No, that is the filter/strainer for the V6 with the 5-speed transmission. You have the I4 with the 4-speed. Here are the correct part numbers:

2AR-FE 2.5L I4 35330-28010
2GR-FE 3.5L V6 35330-08010

And don't trust Amazon. According to them BOTH filters fit my RAV!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,916 Posts
If your filter is in fact just wire mesh, I would say forget changing the filter. Just do a 3 drain-refills or flush the fluid and be done with it.
That mesh does not hold any fine particles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
You could just remove the pan and clean the inside of the pan and the magnets , then like Vanib said....a couple of drain and refills.
I thought the mesh filter was a lifetime filter/strainer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
The part number JuneBug posted is what I've found. Others like Vanib have posted you may be able to just clean out the filter/strainer with some solvent and not need to buy a new one. I plan to drop the tranny pan and do this service in a few months and will probably bite the bullet and get a new one. It's likely to be a one-time service for me, as I've done a few simple drain and refills prior. If I can locate the tranny return line for the 4-cyl engine, I may attempt a flush using that method--after dropping the pan. (It's been posted on other threads for the V6 and seems a good way to go.)

But I digress. Regardless if you get the new filter/strainer or not, you'll still probably need a pan gasket:
Pan Gasket | Genuine Toyota | 35168-21011 : Toyota Online Parts | toyotaonlineparts.com | Toyota Parts Online

And possible this filter O-ring:
Strainer Seal | Genuine Toyota | 90080-30077 : Toyota Online Parts | toyotaonlineparts.com | Toyota Parts Online

Let us know how it goes!
 

·
Your Humble Administrator
2008 RAV4 Limited V6
Joined
·
16,712 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
Well that definitely tips the scales in favor of just getting the new part. I swore I had seen other threads showing more of a metal screen and not a filter medium like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,916 Posts
As you can see in the photo here, the OEM filter/strainer on the left isn't just a mesh screen--it appears to have a fiber filter element inside:



http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/89936-rav4-4-cylinder-transmission-fluid-filter-change-2.html#post1496386
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/89936-rav4-4-cylinder-transmission-fluid-filter-change-4.html#post1496386

Actually, this picture was taken from my post when I did my transmission filter change :)
The one on the right is the original one with the mesh but I had bought one with the filter from NY.
I changed it anyway since there was no way I could return that filter; I had bought it more than 1 year before.

Here's the other side of the original filter where the mesh is more visible.

 

·
Your Humble Administrator
2008 RAV4 Limited V6
Joined
·
16,712 Posts
Actually, this picture was taken from my post when I did my transmission filter change :)
The one on the right is the original one with the mesh but I had bought one with the filter from NY.
I changed it anyway since there was no way I could return that filter; I had bought it more than 1 year before.
Interesting, that doesn't look like an OEM filter. Here is a picture of the old and new OEM filter for the V6's 5-speed transmission--as you can see it does have the cellulose or fiber element:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Civiltech & RAVN4RED (If I can locate the tranny return line for the 4-cyl engine, I may attempt a flush using that method--after dropping the pan. (It's been posted on other threads for the V6 and seems a good way to go.)

This is the trans return line on my 2007 4cyl, yours should be the same. It's the 'lower' line on the transmission. I used a 10mm / 3/8" piece of copper pipe, and shoved it up the rubber trans hose, and with a 10mm clear plastic attached to the pipe, put the end of the hose in a bucket to measure how much you drain. Usually 3 litres / 3 quarts at a time.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
BAH, just did some back-crawling and confirmed location is same on my 2009. Much obliged for the photo and techniques used.

I'll probably replace the filter/strainer with a new part just because it may be the one and only time I drop the pan. I've done a couple of drain and refills so far, and although the ATF is fairly pink as I approach 90k-miles (144k-klicks), it will be interesting to see what kind of gunk is in the pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Very good idea RAVN4RED, that's exactly what I did with the '07 at 184,600 kms (approx 116,000 miles). I replaced the trans filter, because it came with the gasket kit.
(The 3 magnets & pan were very dirty. Everything was cleaned, then reassembled.) It was a rubber gasket btw, was put on dry. The 3 filter bolts were torqued to 84 in-lbs and pan bolts torqued to 67 in-lbs. Like you, I don't plan on doing this too often. I could tell the oil was original, as we had to use a breaker bar on the drain plug! (torque this to 35 ft-lbs).

Some other info, I measured 4.5 litres of oil that was removed from a trans drain, pan & filter. Removed the Return Line, and added 4.5 litres of new ATF WS oil. With the 10mm pipe/hose hooked up, a mate started the the engine in N. After 3 litres of dirty oil was pumped into a bucket, he turned it off. We then added 3 litres of new oil. We repeated this procedure at least 3 times? (was over 2 years ago), until the old fluid came out clean & red. It doesn't shift like new, but it's very close!

Things I would different 'next' time.(1) ATF WS is NOT synthetic trans oil, so I would use a good synthetic trans oil. (2) No need to drop the pan, cleaning it or the magnets. I know they're clean enough :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Seems this thread really took off... I will post updates with the photos and before and after shots of the fluid color. Parts are now in transit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
Very good idea RAVN4RED, that's exactly what I did with the '07 at 184,600 kms (approx 116,000 miles). I replaced the trans filter, because it came with the gasket kit.
(The 3 magnets & pan were very dirty. Everything was cleaned, then reassembled.) It was a rubber gasket btw, was put on dry. The 3 filter bolts were torqued to 84 in-lbs and pan bolts torqued to 67 in-lbs. Like you, I don't plan on doing this too often. I could tell the oil was original, as we had to use a breaker bar on the drain plug! (torque this to 35 ft-lbs).

Some other info, I measured 4.5 litres of oil that was removed from a trans drain, pan & filter. Removed the Return Line, and added 4.5 litres of new ATF WS oil. With the 10mm pipe/hose hooked up, a mate started the the engine in N. After 3 litres of dirty oil was pumped into a bucket, he turned it off. We then added 3 litres of new oil. We repeated this procedure at least 3 times? (was over 2 years ago), until the old fluid came out clean & red. It doesn't shift like new, but it's very close!

Things I would different 'next' time.(1) ATF WS is NOT synthetic trans oil, so I would use a good synthetic trans oil. (2) No need to drop the pan, cleaning it or the magnets. I know they're clean enough :-)
BAH, thanks again for the maintenance details. But I'm slightly confused about the two bolded statements. The first shows "magnets and pan very dirty" and the second indicates "no need to drop the pan..." So bottom line, you think the gunk build-up and magnet crud you found isn't worth the effort to drop the pan? :shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Sorry about the confusion RAVN4RED. Yes, the magnets and pan were very dirty the FIRST time I did the flush, so I thought there SHOULD be no need to drop the pan and clean everything the SECOND time around, as I've already done this once and I know they were all clean after the first time. (even though it was over two years ago). That make sense?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,064 Posts
Ahh, yes, I've got it now. I had interpreted it as a hypothetically not really needed at all. So I'm still on for doing a one-time tranny filter swap and clean the pan. Should be good for another 8 years, well beyond how long I'll keep the car. As for fluid, the Toyota ATF WS has worked fine, and it's what I've used for my simple drain and refills just to keep the same stuff in there. I may use Aisin WS for the return line flush, as I think it's the same as the Toyota, and much cheaper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Don't forget RAVN4RED, you'll probably need around 14 litres of trans fluid. I bought 16 litres of WS, and still have about 2 litres left. It took that much before it started to run clean :-( Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Job is now complete! A few notes before we begin. An impact drill will make removing the pan bolts WAY easier. Be prepared to have fluid go everywhere, this is a messy job. Don't forget to buy some thread lock or else you'll send the wife to Canadian Tire when it's -20C.

Photo Time!!!!!


New fluid verse the old (98,000KM)

Man, there's a lot of work to remove the splash shield and that frame piece.

The magnets were super dirty, but now we're nice and clean

Waiting for the gasket tack spray to adhere

Back on the road now!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ravenuer
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top