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pancake said:
I thought of that after I posted, but didn't reply. How would you turn off the real sensor to turn on the resistors? Because wouldn't if you ran a wire from the sensor out to the resistor and have a switch in between, then wouldn't it turn on both, or would the resistor override?
The way I see it, you don't turn anything off. In fact, you don't ever want to turn off the air temp sensing circuitry, as it will most likely result in the warning light coming on.
You are only switching between different circuits. For example, at normal, the current flows from the computer, out to the sensor, and back. In the modified resistor circuit, you simply create a shunt that causes the current to flow from the computer, towards the sensor, but is instead shunted thru the resistor (bypassing the sensor), and back to the computer. So if you have a switch box that allows such switching, you only toggle back and forth between the circuits, nothing is ever turned off. The current will flow no matter what, the variable is just thru what does it flow? Either the normal sensor, or the resistor.

If I recall my electrical engineering correctly, if you ran a resistor in parallel with the sensor like how you mentioned, it wouldn't give much change if any depending on the given resistance of the air temp sensor itself. Electricity follows the path of least resistance. On a hot day, the sensor will have a lower resistance, allowing higher current to flow thru it and less to flow thru the resistor (essentially cancelling out the presence of the resistor). As it gets colder and the sensor's resistance increases, I believe the sensor will maintain dominance over the 100 Ohm resistor until the sensor itself creates a higher resistance than the resistor. At that point, the max resistance will be the lowest resistance of the two. Or so I think. It's been years since I had this material.

Sorry Mensa, had to make my attempt to drown in my glass. I used to really enjoy electrical engineering back in my electric R/C car racing days.
 

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Just for fun tonight I was at the mall I bought a pack of 100K resistors. I put them in at the mall and drove back with it. I definately noticed a bit of power, just a bit. I guaged it by how long my tires would spin (because it was raining). Normally they catch in a little over a second, with the resistor it lasted for 3+ seconds. There are other factors that determine how long they spin, but it felt more spirited. I also took off the cover for my intake to make it just a regular intake (because I want to make a new scoop for it) and it sounded so much deeper. I went for some off lightroading tonight and got some water on the filter, the engine started idling lower and would rev up a little every other second. I might just get a regular filter and leave it open instead of remaking a scoop.
 

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Got my Tri-phase. I'm in the process of installing the unit, but haven't cut any wires yet. Which wire should I cut? I have a yellow wire with a black stripe and a solid brown wire.


Thanks!
 

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Yes, but it only told me to cut the sensor wire (coloured black in the manual) and not touch the ground (red) wire. Since I don't have either black or red, I'm wondering which wire I should splice the module to.
 

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Both are 1998. I was considering using a meter to test which one was positive and negative and cut the negative wire, since that is what seems to be indicated in the manual. I don't suppose there would be any serious bad effects if I spliced the wrong wire? I can splice the wires back if I cut the wrong one, but I want to do it right the first time.
 

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Guess I'll do just that. No, no header yet. The headlamps set me back a bit, so I'll take some time to earn my way back for it. Great lights, though.
 

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Turned out to be the brown wire. Cut the yellow one and the "check engine" light came on. I soldered the wire back together and heat shrinked the connection for protection. Tri-phase module is successfully installed, and OBC is reset. I'll give the RAV a spin tomorrow and see what changes it made.

Yeah, I gotta get the header next. Hope I can get the local shop to install it for me without tacking on additional charges of "unfamiliar parts".
 

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Tri-phase seems to work. Tested it out today and the RAV has a little more go-power when getting on the freeway. Mensa, do you feel the effects of the Tri-phase are immediate or do they take a few seconds to fully kick in? I'm wondering about this because I'm planning to make a pressure switch for my unit and mount it to the floor/firewall under the accelerator pedal. That way, when I put my foot down, the unit will be switched on and the additional power will be there. For normal driving when I don't floor it, the unit will remain off for fuel economy. Also, the main switch on the unit itself will serve as the master switch. Basically, I plan to splice the pressure switch into the power wire. Only hard part will be positioning it properly and setting it to turn on at the right time.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
J-san said:
Tri-phase seems to work. Tested it out today and the RAV has a little more go-power when getting on the freeway. Mensa, do you feel the effects of the Tri-phase are immediate or do they take a few seconds to fully kick in? I'm wondering about this because I'm planning to make a pressure switch for my unit and mount it to the floor/firewall under the accelerator pedal. That way, when I put my foot down, the unit will be switched on and the additional power will be there. For normal driving when I don't floor it, the unit will remain off for fuel economy. Also, the main switch on the unit itself will serve as the master switch. Basically, I plan to splice the pressure switch into the power wire. Only hard part will be positioning it properly and setting it to turn on at the right time.
When I flick the switch, the power goes on immediately. J, do you have an intake installed? Regarding the, a la NOS pedal switch, well, I guess you pay the gas. :) . Remember, it will become addictive, trust me on that one. :lol: But J, the header, that will really bring it to life.
 

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Yup, intake is installed and drawing in cold air down from the splash guard. Oh well, I guess it probably is the lack of the header. That will be next on my list.
 
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Hey Mensa did you buy ur tri-phase directly from next level performance, i wanna get one but i dont have a credit card to purchase it but i got a fren in miami that can do it but he say he dont like using paypal is there anywhere else i can let him go to get it that dont use paypal?? please help as i really want this module like from yesterday ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Send Next Phase Performance an Money Order. Give them a call and ask for their address and tell them what you would like to do. Almost likely they will tell you to send it "Care To....." He will be waiting for it and will do the shipping. These people work well.

Next Level Performance
PO Box 234
Bloomsburg, PA 17815

1-888-293-1695.

http://www.nextlevelracing.com/about.htm
 

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Mensa, can you give me the brand and model of flex pipe you used? I searched around and didn't see any like yours. Some of the exhaust flex tubes looked like dryer ducting. I'm thinking of just ordering the header and flexpipe and taking them into the exhaust shop for installation.

thanks!
 
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