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Discussion Starter #1
Well.... believe it or not, my RAV was at the dealer today a second time in a week.............. FOR A REASON.

I had my tires rotated and balanced last week.. Drove to Nashville and realized that the steering VIBRATED A LITTLE at about 75mph.

So, I took it back today and asked to RE-balance.

They said that the tires were worn unevenly and it would take "some time" for the tires to be "corrected"..............

Now there was absolutely no vibration in my steering before the ROTATION and their "apparent" Balancing.

The service woman told me that if the vibration in steering persists they would switch the tires in their "old position" again.

She seemed to accuse me of not rotating the tires in 5000 miles and told her THREE TIMES that I do it religiously but I don't think she bought it...... as all my records are in Detroit....
 
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Discussion Starter #2
I have somewhat of a similar problem...

At 22000 miles I noticed noise from the original Toyo tires on my 2005 RAV4 as if they were cupped. I took it to my dealer who looked at it and told me that all four tires were cupped on the inside.

I ran it like that for another 8000 miles, until I no longer had National Scout Jamboree and other matters to deal with, then I arranged for new tires and a 4-wheel alignment, today. By this time, there was a noticeable shimmy in the front end at highway speeds, 55 to 75 mph.

I got 4 new Kelly 225/70R16 tires, and my alignment guy showed me that the tires were all set up such that the tires had from 1.3 to 2.8 degrees of camber, with the top leaning in. He said that this made the vehicle ride better according to the manufacturer, but it also ate tires. He and I agreed that he would try to get as close to zero camber as possible, which he was almost able to do.

My problem is that now I have a worse shimmy in the front end at highway speed.... I'm wondering to which guy I take it back first.

At least I'm not in New Orleans....they're a lot worse off than I am with my little problems.

Matt Cole
"Springmills"
 

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I have had the same problem with shimmy when the tires are almost wore out and a little off. But I do a lot of tight high speed turns all day.
I just replace my tires today, got 52,000 out of my last set of Cooper Discouverer M/S. That is really good for my driving. Only at 134,800 miles on my 2000.
 
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I've been noticing that my passenger side front tire wears faster than the other three tires even after rotation. Is this normal and maybe because that's the main drive wheel for the RAV4 when driven only on pavement? The entire tire wears faster not just one area.
 

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Most mystery shimmies are caused by overtorqued lug nuts. Believe me, it happens all the time. Alloy wheels in particular are very picky about even and proper torque. If the wheels are not torqued down to the proper amount, or they are not torqued down evenly, they will vibrate, and no amount of tire balancing in the world will fix it.
 

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Jeff said:
Most mystery shimmies are caused by overtorqued lug nuts. Believe me, it happens all the time. Alloy wheels in particular are very picky about even and proper torque. If the wheels are not torqued down to the proper amount, or they are not torqued down evenly, they will vibrate, and no amount of tire balancing in the world will fix it.
I have heard that dumb gorillas with power tools at tire shops can warp rotors by over TQing the lug nuts. Warped rotors are noticeable at low speed when the brakes are applied. The warped rotor shimmys. But I didn't know that it would be bad enough to cause cupped tires or shimmying at highway speeds.

So you are saying the alloy rims don't seat properly unless evenly TQ'ed? I always use a TQ wrench or if getting new tires watch the work being done to avoid the gorilla problem.
 

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If the insides are wearing faster than the outside, then you either have too much negative camber and/or too much toe out. Having the opposite will wear the outsides faster than the inside as well as cornering too fast.

If they are rebalancing the tyres and still showing nothing, I think it's best to check the mounts to where the tyres are suppose to be to the rim. There are red and yellow dots on the side of the tyres that are suppose to match up to where the air valves are. I'm not 100% on this but you can search for this info on google but this is what I've read and consistent with all the cars I've seen.
 

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Let's put it this way....I've had instances where my front tires had a slight vibration at highway speed, and all I had to do to fix the vibration was to loosen and retorque the lug nuts. Overtorqued lug nuts will not really cause unven tire wear like incorrect camber will, but it can caused the small amounts of annoying vibration you feel at highway speed.

All I'm saying is that if you have a slight vibration that occurs spontaneously, and rebalancing does not fix it, check the lug nuts. The proper way to fasten an alloy wheel is to torque the lug nuts to spec when you put the wheel on, and then check the torque after 50 miles or so. Given that most people don't check the lug nut torque after 50 miles, shops put the lug nuts on extra tight to reduce the chance of a liability issue.

Also, since vibration issues are caused by things other than simply being out of balance, I only go to tire shops that use the Hunter GSP9700. The Hunter balancer can adjust for more issues than weight balance, so there is a less chance of have vibration issues after the fact.
 
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