[Cecil]

Great writeup and nice job so far!

I was able to use the stock tweeter mounts for my alpine tweeters.
The stock tweeter pops out and I enlarged the hole. Much better than cardboard…

I have a lease, and keeping it stock as possible to reverse it later.


Also, I still prefer cardboard. Tweeters don't need a strong mount, and with the CCF pad applied to the tweeter cover, it applies enough pressure that it doesn't move at all.

 

[c7aea]

I have a lease, and keeping it stock as possible to reverse it later.


Also, I still prefer cardboard. Tweeters don't need a strong mount, and with the CCF pad applied to the tweeter cover, it applies enough pressure that it doesn't move at all.

Ok.

Also did your new speaker mounts not align with the stock holes for the rivets?

I ordered ordered a set off ebay from autoware302. I just told them it was for a 2013 Toyota rav4, and they aligned perfectly. I didn't have to screw into the door panel.

 

[Cecil]

Ok.

Also did your new speaker mounts not align with the stock holes for the rivets?

I ordered ordered a set off ebay from autoware302. I just told them it was for a 2013 Toyota rav4, and they aligned perfectly. I didn't have to screw into the door panel.

It aligned fine, but I didn't have screws with nuts and the rivets weren't big enough. Just drilled the holes, and cut some 1.5" drywall screws in half and used them.




Got the KTP-445U in. Actually very surprised how well it works for the size and rating. Ive ran 100rms to much better components then these with fully deadened doors before, and while this setup obviously isn't as good, its still very good. Id say its closer to that setup then the stock setup in this. Enough midbass to rattle all the mirrors, enough volume for it to be pretty loud on the highway with the windows down, and pretty darn good sound quality as well. Will test the voltage hit tomorrow, but doubting it will be much.




Install,


Pre-crimped the wires before getting in the car.



Start your prying here and keep popping the clips along the top,



Pry both sides like this.






Then here.



These two spots.






Undo these 4 bolts, 10mm.



Rest the radio on a cloth and start pulling the wires.



Lots of space under the radio.



Unclip the AC controls and rest here for more hand room. Put some painters tape or small cloth on the soft touch part of the dash where the clips to the AC unit touches to avoid scratches.



Blue wire on the left is the 12v battery. The radio has a 20amp fuse, so you can tap right in to this instead of running to the battery directly. You also don't need the signal wires for the amp when using the speaker wires from the radio. The front speakers are on this plug as well. Pull the covering back and cut the wires needed somewhere in the middle.



Wires from the plug to the amp in are too short. Grab some spare wire and make them longer like this.



Done attaching the wires, and stuffed them down under.



Zip tied the amp to this plastic piece the bottom of the radio rests on. Pushed the clip part of the ties further back.



Put it all back in the reverse order, and your done.

 

[DPC]

Man! that is cool, I really like that set up.
How you explain it makes it sounds easy, with pics and all.


Do you think you need a sub?
How would you do that? Would you have to run new wires from the amps to the sub/s?

 

[Cecil]

Nothing was hard at all. Just a little more time consuming then I thought. Would have been much better with another person helping. With extending the wires, there was about 30-40 butts used, and you have to crimp both ends of each. Today my hand is very sore.




As for sub, Im thinking about the yet to be released Alpine PWE-S8 to go under a seat. Only thing is its not worth the $300 retail price Crutchfield has it for. So if I can get it on Amazon when it comes out around $200 I might pick it up. If not, Ill stick with one of my subs and just look for a smaller, lower power, more efficient amp then I have now.




All you would have to do for an amp with speaker level inputs is tap in to the rear channel line either at the radio or the door. For RCAs get a line out converter and use it to tap in to the channels. I have an Audio Control LC6i on hand which is basically a very high quality line out converter.




The Alpine power pack amp isn't for subs, nothing to run from it except it has a remote turn on wire.

 

[Cecil]

Completely stock at idle, voltage was 13.73v.



With stock setup, max AC, high volume, and brights on, it drops to 13.30v.



With the power pack in, max AC, high volume, and brights on, it didn't drop.



With the above while revving to 2k RPM 13.60v.





Im going to guess between 300-600rms should be alright if keeping the volume down at idle. Might hook the amp I have up to it without installing it, just to put load on it and see where it starts to drop too much.




Want to do the big 3, but taking a quick look at the alternator looks like it may be a bit of a pain to do that one.

 

[01010101]

Awesome write up! Thanks Cecil! :thumbs_up:

 

[Vorpal]

Well done - the pictures make all the difference. Thanks Cecil.

 

[eccentric]

I just want to add my thanks to Cecil for the write up and the pics. Very good job.

 

[neilaa69]

Thanks Cecil for the nice write up..surely i'll be doing the same soon...

 

[WhatsARav4]

Awesome write up, I will be buying all of this soon and using this guide for the install. Thank you for helping us all out with this!

 

[WhatsARav4]

You need a line out converter. You tap it in to the rear channels and it gives you RCA outs.


If I go with an under the seat type sub, going to wait for this to come out.
Alpine PWE-S8 Compact 120-watt powered 8" subwoofer at Crutchfield.com




I have a 1500rms amp and AA Havoc 12 in a 2.25cu @ 31Hz box I built. No way the stock electrical will handle that. Probably not even half.

Has anyone bought this or know if it fits under the seat yet? I really liked to order this unit as it looks like it can give just the right amount of fill in bass to match the first post in this threads setup.

 

[kevinmcadams]

sub woofer

That looks really neat under the seat.
I don't really have much experience upgrading the audio in cars but I like a nice sounding audio system.
Do you still have stock speakers?
If so, how well do they play along side your upgrades?

I added a 1500 watt amp with 15" L7 Kicker, it pounds
really well, I'll change the door speakers next. I put mine under the front seat also and hard wired it to the battery.

 

[Ravsport08]

Here is another great compact powered sub that fits under the seat, the Kicker Hideaway, 150W powered sub. Comes with a remote too. I'll be installing this in my dad's impreza sport this week and likely the Rav 4.4. Amazon.com : Kicker Hideaway Compact Powered Sub : Vehicle Subwoofer Systems : Car Electronics

For anyone with a 4.3 and that storage area underneath the trunk (or 4.4 owners who don't mind taking up a little space) I have this one installed in my 2008 (in storage area under trunk) with stock speakers (soon to be upgraded) and it's amazing. http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-PES10C...f=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1431175706&sr=1-1&keywords=kicker+substation

Great write up Cecil, thanks! :thumbs_up:

 

[Dragonpool]

Installing Crossover for dash tweeter and front door speaker

I've just order a component system to upgrade 2015 RAV4 speakers. Before I try to find myself, could someone point to me where is the best place to install the crossovers for dash tweeters and front door speakers.
Thanks.

 

[map]

I've just order a component system to upgrade 2015 RAV4 speakers. Before I try to find myself, could someone point to me where is the best place to install the crossovers for dash tweeters and front door speakers.
Thanks.

If you open the tweeter cover you can check if there is enough space there.
Furthermore, there you will find all the speakers cables (coming from the Radio and going towards the Subs)
For your convenience, here my pics: View image: 20150301 788 DSCN0316b
View image: 20150301 789 DSCN0317

 

[Dragonpool]

If you open the tweeter cover you can check if there is enough space there.
Furthermore, there you will find all the speakers cables (coming from the Radio and going towards the Subs)
For your convenience, here my pics: View image: 20150301 788 DSCN0316b
View image: 20150301 789 DSCN0317

Many thanks, especially for the pictures. You've just confirmed that crossovers can be installed under the tweeters. I think I may be able to wrap the crossovers with the tweeter holders.

 

[map]

Many thanks, especially for the pictures. You've just confirmed that crossovers can be installed under the tweeters. I think I may be able to wrap the crossovers with the tweeter holders.

Exactly, just below the tweeter you find all the cables that you will connect in/out to your crossover and then you can tie all togheter to the tweeter

 

[MeiklesAndDimes]

Alpine MRX-F65 under the drives seat.

Did the amp come with that metal bar? or did you have to make it to install the amp under the seat like that?

 

[Dragonpool]

I did it

Exactly, just below the tweeter you find all the cables that you will connect in/out to your crossover and then you can tie all togheter to the tweeter

Thanks again for map's information. Although the weather in here UK is dreadful during winter, I managed to replace all door speakers and dash tweeters for a 2015 RAV4 and it indeed was not that difficult.
Because of the rainy weather, I didn't take any photos, but here is a summary of my work.

Systems:
C2-650 - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Component Systems - JL Audio
C2-650: 6.5-inch (165 mm) 2-Way Component Speaker System, for front doors and dash tweeters.

C2-650x - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Coaxial Systems - JL Audio
C2-650x: 6.5-inch (165 mm) Coaxial Speaker System, for rear doors.

Speaker Adapters for front doors and rear doors
Connects 2 Car Audio Systems, Car Stereo, Car Radio DAB Stereos, Car interface adapters and accessories > ProductInformation

Besides those main components, I have a series of DIY tools and other materials, which were used, including
Soldering tools,
Speaker cables,
Pier, Spanner, Screwdriver,
Car door clip panel trim tool
Shrinking sleeves for wrapping cable joints
Assorted nuts and bolts for installing door speakers and adapters,

I strongly suggest you get all the tools and materials ready before any work. Good preparation will make the job easier and done better.

For tweeters, I used the stock holder. What I did was using sharp thin knife to cut the glue around the edge of the existing tweeter and the pulling it out. The C2 tweeter can exactly fit. To hold it tight, I wrapped the edge of the new tweeter with the holder using insulation tape.

For door speakers, the rivets can be removed using side cutters. And the adapters are perfect.

After a few days of burning in, I can say the sound quality is miles better than the stock speakers. It's crisp, tight, bright and powerful. Although the loudness cannot rip the ceiling off, I can not stand the maximum in the car.

I have no experience with other speakers and cannot access some of the models produced in US, but I'm very satisfied with the results.

I think this website is excellent for providing good information and thanks for all people who made this happen.