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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to decide which Piggyback Engine control. Yes, I have an Apexi NEO piggy back already installed. But it look like it it not up to the challenge as I was told from another Turbo enthusiastic, here is his answer:


The NEO works best for minor corrections, such as small bolt ons or a non-adjustable chipped ECU that just needs a little adjustment to account for minor differences between your combo and the one used to develop the tune. They have some massive limitations on a turbo engine:

1. If you have tried to use larger injectors, the only way to get the NEO to correct for it is to cut the load signal. This does nothing to change the acceleration enrichment, which will likely dump too much fuel on throttle transients.

2. Changing the load signal moves both fuel and timing at the same time - and often trying to move one of these in the right direction will move the other in the wrong direction.

There were people in the '90s who did successfully run turbo builds on a NEO or other piggybacks, but these days there are much better tuning options available. You'll see better drivability and reliability on a properly tuned standalone.

I''ll be using 6lbs, no more. I just want to run around and block and have some fun but no to kill myself. What you guys recommend?

I might use an AEM.


 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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You are way over my head on this mod. When you finish getting the turbo in please do a thread showing what you did and lessons learned, I would be very interested. Just wondering if it wouldn't have been easier to do the 3SGTE transplant.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lesson learn so far is that research is a must. Yes, the Apexi NEO worked well in N/A engine. Where the setting were like baby steps, you adjusted accordingly. But for massive air rush, like a turbo system generates. It gets a little more complicated in the wallet because its a new ball game. An arena where one thing goes wrong, and you will feel it in your back pocket, big time. For turbo you need more adjustable control. And tuning for the life of the engine. Because if you are off, you blow the turbo kit AND the engine.

The 3SFE engine (as I have research) will not live long with 8 to 10 lbs of boost. Keep it at 6, no more, PERIOD. The bottom part of the engine is not made for 15 to 30 lbs of boost, it will not hold. It has 9.8:1 CR. The 3SGTE has 8.0 (or so) but it has forged crank etc.

Why I don't do the 3SGTE? Because it kind of like cheating. When Pro Stock started with Bill Jenkins, Dick Landy, Gapp & Roush, Don Nicholson, Sox & Martin. They had event that said: "Run what you brought". Well, I'll run what I got.

One thing though. It will be tuned to the "T". With the best parts I can. It will run well. And to top it off. The project will be done by four fellow teachers and a hand full of students. :wink

What I already have is somewhere in this forum. Those are the easy, not so expensive parts. From know on it gets intere$ting.
 

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Use a standalone... and buy the one YOUR tuner is used to works with regularly.


I like the AFC Neo... and used it on many set-ups. It is very easy/simple to use. But like it was told to you, it's made to do conservative fuel corrections. It does not control ignition timing, and timing is a very important thing to control when adding boost to a naturally aspirated engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Use a standalone... and buy the one YOUR tuner is used to works with regularly.


I like the AFC Neo... and used it on many set-ups. It is very easy/simple to use. But like it was told to you, it's made to do conservative fuel corrections. It does not control ignition timing, and timing is a very important thing to control when adding boost to a naturally aspirated engine.
I was consideringAEM 30-1910 6 Cylinder Fuel & Ignition Controller or similar since there are a few models.
 
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