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I have been saying this for sometime now; there's a lot a sludge at the bottom of the pan.
it is hard to estimate the amount of fluid based on the dipstick; the ATF must be really hot to know if the level is right. Best to drive the car for 10 min, then check the level. If everything checks out, then just replace the old cool ATF with the same amount of new cool ATF.
Vanib, I don't think this is the case Always....my pan looked like it had never been off...the vehicle had 100K on it when I bought it, and I had no service records through Toyota. Having changed many trans pans and filters in the past it looked to me like it had never been touched. The pic I posted of the pan looked quite clean as far as clutch disc residue and metal particles which can be quite common in a trans pan especially the first time it is changed. I thought mine looked relatively clean for 100K on the clock.
 

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Hello all!! First time post. Completed this today thanks to all the great posts here. The details: currently have 115k on 2008 V6 base 2wd 5spd. Had a dealer flush at appox 75k. Started to recently get occasional slipping and hard shifts. I wanted to replace filter and what fluid I could with a pan drop. Fluid was black with some hints of red and slightly burnt smell. Magnets had the expected fuzz. Will be doing another drain and fill in the near future to get some more fresh fluid in there and then regular intervals after that. No pan drop though. I used WS as thats what was in it and recommended. I haven't done my research yet on the other fluids mentioned here and I needed to get this done while I had the time. Will consider them in the future though. Initial drive showed smoother shifting and more responsiveness. Took pics and will post as soon as I figure it out, lol.
 

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NEED HELP - I did a drain and replace in May, and the last 2 weeks, having vibrations while in most gears - levels off at highway - but I suspect still there, just unnoticeable at 65 mph. I still had the bottles in the barn trash and see I F*d up -- not WS. Went under the car last night and tranny now leaking. So, Is the drain and fill I did last night (and another in a few weeks) going to remedy this, or have I done permanant damage. I need to drive this every day for work and putting lots of miles on it.
 

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Anyone? sorry to pest - but it is still doing this and I will be doing approx 600+ miles this coming week. Seems to be better when cold, but after warming up, gets worse. What would cause the vibration. I was looking around and on an FJ forum, found some talk about the wiring harness getting worn and shorting - which caused the same symptom. Just kind of coincidental, and - since I used the wrong fluid and now have a tranny leak - not sure that is the case here, but will be going out in a few to follow the harness.
 

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Thanks for great DIY! I did 2006 RAV4 6 cylinders and currently around 140K miles. I used Duralast filter and Valvoline MaxLife® DEX/MERC ATF, refilled 4.5 qt.

Definitely feel different and a lot smooth shifting in lower gears.
 

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Anyone? sorry to pest - but it is still doing this and I will be doing approx 600+ miles this coming week. Seems to be better when cold, but after warming up, gets worse. What would cause the vibration. I was looking around and on an FJ forum, found some talk about the wiring harness getting worn and shorting - which caused the same symptom. Just kind of coincidental, and - since I used the wrong fluid and now have a tranny leak - not sure that is the case here, but will be going out in a few to follow the harness.

I don't think you have done damage to the tranny yet if you have driven only short distances. Please change the fluid. I would aim for WS fluid. If that's not available then try Valvoline Maxlife ATF.

If the drain plug is leaking even when fully tightened, there is a good chance you cross threaded it ... like I did. In my case, the pan threads were fine. Only the drain boklt threads were messed up. :wall If that's the case, get a replacement drain plug from Toyota (Part number 90341-18016). If not, just head to your auto store and get a M18-1.50 drain bolt. I also used a nyloin washer for this non-OEM bolt. BTW, both Toyota and non-OEM bolt cost about $4.
 

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I may be ok with the tranny. I had an independent garage do an alignment a few weeks back I installed new coil springs from a 3rd row seat version - it raised my ride an inch. also new struts. Yesterday, walking up to my car parked- I noticed my front wheels look to be pointing away from each other, so I took it back to the garage and when up on the lift, they said the driver side axle boot is torn and spewed grease on the side of the tranny - not transmission fluid. Aside, they say the passenger side inner tie rod is bad, so that would give the wobbling. going to replace inner and outer and see what happens. I did replace with WS anyway. I'll update when I get it done tomorrow night.
 

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inner and outer tie rods done on right side. much better. but now I think think the left (driver side) is going, so just ordered them both from rock auto. I also installed new stabilizer bars tonight - both had torn boots, so that should help. If I could think past my nose, I would be doing all at once
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tranny is fine. Probably nothing wrong in the first place, but since an independent garage complete misdiagnosed my wobble (it was actually a bad driver side CV due to a slice in the boot) I drained and refilled 2 X, and then a third time dropped the pan. The upside is knowing that after over 130,000 miles, there was hardly any sludge at all - in the bottom of the pan or 2 magnets. The fastest way to do is definitely pull the support arm which blocks several pan bolts. No problem at all with air tools. thanks for the advise.
 

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The upside is knowing that after over 130,000 miles, there was hardly any sludge at all - in the bottom of the pan or 2 magnets.
As much as everyone badmouths WS, it's a great fluid and should be OK for at least up to 100,000 miles. I just recently did Yaris @66000 miles and there was little debris in the pan/magnets, way less than the previous toyota I did with T-IV ATF @60000 miles.
 

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I have read the posts and found 70 inch pounds of torque is recommended for the pan bolts. But the ATP gasket that I will be using says to use 100-120 inch pounds. I was planning to go 110. What could go wrong? The gasket is felt-type unlike the OEM cork-type.
 

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Since buying my wife the 08 Rav4 with 78K miles on it, I have been planning all of the maintenance work to do over the week or two.


I checked all the fluids before purchase and after we got it home. I was kind of bummed that the transmission fluid was a clear red. Obviously someone (probably the non Toyota dealer I bought it from) flushed the AT. I would have preferred to do it myself. Just to know the filter was replaced and the type of fluid that was used. The transmission shifts great. I really don't want to spend the money on doing it when it looks so clean now.


I have other stuff to do to it anyways. I am one of those that prefers to do it myself so I know that it was done exactly right
 

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I just got through with changing the transmission filter and fluid. The pics in this thread helped a lot. Removing those four 17mm bolts and cross bar was a big help to get to the pan bolts. I installed a Wix 58010 filter with rubber gasket and torqued the three filter bolts to 84 inch pounds. I torqued the pan bolts to 80 inch pounds in an alternating pattern.

I also drilled a hole in the plastic skid plate (??) for easier access to the pan drain bolt. I'll probably just do a drain and refill next time.

For 51,000 miles the fluid looked good to me. I probably did unneeded maintenance but at least I feel better after doing it. :smile

Edited to add info: One would be well advised to use a NEW drain bolt gasket/washer (Toyota part number 90430-18008 and costs about $1.50). Don't ask how I learned this. :wink The drain bolt torque is 35 foot pounds.
 

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Anyone here have an inline filter installed for the tranny? I'm thinking about installing a Magnefine the next time I replace the fluid. Having an inline filter is definitely easier than dropping the tranny pan.
 

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Anyone here have an inline filter installed for the tranny? I'm thinking about installing a Magnefine the next time I replace the fluid. Having an inline filter is definitely easier than dropping the tranny pan.
This might be worth starting a new thread rather then highjacking this one.

I know this is popular on trannies that get more use like on the Tundra's, FJ's, and 4Runner's. I can't imagine mine ever needing a bypass or inline filter, but I sure like the idea.
 

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On trans fluid maintenance, I usually change it at 30k intervals. However, made the mistake of having the Toyota dealer do it. They recommended a Wynns synthetic. This in spite of using the Toyota WS as documented everywhere. Wasn't aware of the WS until recently. But was looking for the next round of service now at 75k miles on it, and was considering a trans fluid change. Pulled the dip stick, color looked fairly reddish and no burnt smell. Anybody have suggestions as to whether to stick with the Wynns or flush all of it out the second time and go to the Toyota WS. Shifting has been ok for either. Thanks.
 

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I may have missed it - but what is the total amount of ATF needed if you're doing a pan drop and the whole flush/refill?
 

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