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I may have missed it - but what is the total amount of ATF needed if you're doing a pan drop and the whole flush/refill?

I used about 4.1 quarts of WS fluid when I did the pan drop and refill. But that is only about half of the transmission fluid. The other half remained in the torque converter. Total volume is about 8.6 quarts and that is what you will need if you are doing a complete flush and fill with pan drop and new filter.

Since I did the original filter change and cleaning of the pan, I did a drain and refill using a little less than 4 quarts.
 

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Huge thanks to all who have posted their experiences - such a big help for someone attempting this for the first time!

Speaking of…I'm working on this today and noticed something I thought was weird and was wondering if it was normal?
At first when I started draining the fluid - it looked fine - completely red with no unusual smell. BUT, as it drained, it got darker and darker and by the last 1/2 quart, even smelled a little burned?

Is this typical, to have this range of fluid? It seems to me like some of the fluid wasn't even being used thru the system???
 

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...
At first when I started draining the fluid - it looked fine - completely red with no unusual smell. BUT, as it drained, it got darker and darker and by the last 1/2 quart, even smelled a little burned?

Is this typical, to have this range of fluid? It seems to me like some of the fluid wasn't even being used thru the system???
How long had the car sat before you started the job?

All fluid in a reservoir (or pan) gets used when running. It's possible that there was some settling out, whereby the heavier filth in the pan came out last, carrying the burnt smell. That there was such a smell tells us you did the right thing with a fluid change. A lush might be in order next time a change is due (or sooner).


Lexington? Cool. I lived there until age 10.
 

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My 2007 Rav4 2.4L automatic has 184,500 kms, and I suspect the ATF WS trans fluid has never been changed or replaced. So last Friday, mate & I did it.
We drained the fluid first, removed the trans sump pan & filter. Cleaned everything (+ the 3 magnets), fitted a new filter and gasket, and torqued the filter & pan bolts up (filter 84 in-lbs, pan 67 in-lbs). (Trans drain plug is 35 ft-lbs)
Because we removed 4.5 litres of trans fluid, we put 4.5 litres back. (in Australia, liters is spelt litres). We then removed the LOWER hose (return line) connected to the trans, joined it to a piece of clear 10mm hose (about 1 m long), with a short piece of 3/8" copper tubing. Just to prevent any spillage from the trans, I slipped a 100mm (4") piece of the clear tubing onto the spigot of the trans (where we removed the factory hose). A 9 litre bucket was placed under the clear hose.
We started the engine in N, and took out 3 litres. It was a real dark colour! Turned off the motor, and replaced another 3 litres. I think we did this 4 times, and the new Toyota ATF WS oil in the trans is now a very bright red! :)
All up, it cost about $AU270, but boy, has it made a big difference! It's like new!
As I said, I used genuine Toyota ATF WS oil. It was a comparable price with aftermarket oils!
Some photos of my tranny flush.
 

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Did a drain and fill on the transmission for my V6 4wd. So far the fluids were oem from factory, valvoline maxlife at 11k, valvoline maxlife at 16k , and valvoline maxlife + 1/2 bottle of lg red at 21k . I just did another d/f of valvoline maxlife + a bottle of lg red at 51k miles. No build up on the drain bolt magnet and I'm curious to see what will be on the magnets inside the pan if I ever get to changing the filter. Describing the color of atf draining out. I'd say it matched the red you see when you look down into the bottle of fresh atf after you break the aluminum seal under the cap. From memory comparing the visibility of light through the stream of atf draining into the pan I'd say the stream wasn't as dark as the prior d/fs.

Our Rav4 has always shifted fine. No whine and no issues using Valvoline Maxlife and LG red. One of these days if I get to changing the atf filter I'll do a complete fill of redline or amsoil.
 

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Hi RAV4Don, After almost 4 years since you"ve done this job. Just want to know your comments on the Duralast (Autozone brand #TF174), Valvoline Dextron VI full synth fluid and how the tranny has performed since the work.
 

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Hi RAV4Don, After almost 4 years since you've done this job. Just want to know your comments on the Duralast (Autozone brand #TF174), Valvoline Dextron VI full synth fluid and how the tranny has performed since the work.
He hasn't posted since 02-19-2013 so he may not see your question. Probably still busy blasting around in his new love, a 2012 Corvette.
 

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So is the Wix 58010 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit, the recommended kit for my 2006 rav4 sport 3.5 v6? Or is there something higher quality that I can buy? Thanks

I also found the Beck Arnley 044-0331 Automatic Transmission Filter which has excellent reviews but I notice that it doesn't come with the smaller circular gasket. Does that also need to be replaced with a new one?
 

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So is the Wix 58010 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit, the recommended kit for my 2006 rav4 sport 3.5 v6? Or is there something higher quality that I can buy? Thanks

I also found the Beck Arnley 044-0331 Automatic Transmission Filter which has excellent reviews but I notice that it doesn't come with the smaller circular gasket. Does that also need to be replaced with a new one?
If you want high quality then the Toyota filter should be the best one to chose.
 

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So is the Wix 58010 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit, the recommended kit for my 2006 rav4 sport 3.5 v6? Or is there something higher quality that I can buy? Thanks

I also found the Beck Arnley 044-0331 Automatic Transmission Filter which has excellent reviews but I notice that it doesn't come with the smaller circular gasket. Does that also need to be replaced with a new one?
I just did my 2007 V6 last week with the Beck Arnley kit purchased through Rock Auto. If you're referring to the round oring, it does come with it as well as a rubber pan gasket. My oring was already on the filter itself when I opened the package. With any of the name brand gasket kits, you should be well served.

As a certified mechanic I fully disagree with the general statement that OEM is always the highest quality to use. Toyota and most other manufacturers don't make all of their own parts. Many of the larger aftermarket companies actually make a number of the OEM components.
 

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Has anyone gone back to Toyota for a synthetic trans oil change for a 4.4 Toyota RAV4?
Questions:

How much did it cost, labor and parts, complete?

Do you happen to know the flat rate for this job, so that the readers here may calculate the cost at their neighborhood dealer?

I don't like the idea of leaving the trans oil in the trans forever, even if it is synthetic.
 

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Does anyone have a pick of the trans cooler oil return line? I want to perform the complete flush like I did on my Tacoma. I have searched many threads on here and could not find anything specific for Rav 4.3 3rd generation. Mine is a 06 Rav4 Sport V6. I am sitting at 114,000 miles and want to get this done over this coming weekend.
 

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I just serviced my trans using this thread for pointers. I have a 2007 V6. Transmission was replaced under warranty at around 52k (due to loud whine sound) I now have 94k, and I tow 2 Harley's every year for about 1500 miles. Dropped the pan (definetly remove support brace-very easy) and used the Beck Arnley filter ($19.95 online)
There was alot of futz on the magnets-around a half inch of sludge. Also some very dark sludgy oil at the bottom of the pan. I have the towing package, so slightly larger capacity. In total, I got 5 quarts out. Used Toyota WS purchased for $8 per qt. from local dealer. Will drain and fill again in a week or so. Glad I did this. Mucho peace of mind...Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
 

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Th;nks

Thanks very much for this thread. ATF replaced @ 78k miles. Owns a 2008 RAV V6 Sport. Did a drain and fill. No loud clicks now, only smooth normal metal slipping sound on stationary shift from P to OD and reverse; gears transitioning smooth on merging, freeway, and steady slow traffic.

Kinda wondered too why the steering has been smoother after, steers easy now on stationary turns when exiting parallel parking with good torque response.

Transfer case and rear differential oil drained and filled too together with this tranny fluid change. Must be the reason.

Fluid/oil used:

Tranny
Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid


Transfer case and rear differential (the same oil used for both - as advised by Autozone tech)
Valvoline HP 80W90 Gear Oil

Important points to consider:

1. After tranny fluid empties during drain, close drain valve tight @ torque spec, fill with 3 quart fluid, start engine, do stationary shifts from P to OD and reverse, repeat 5 to 10 times to thorough distribute fluid, turn off engine, then drain until empty again, you will see it is still a bit dark, close and retighten drain valve to torque spec, then final fill with 3.5 quart. All in all you will need roughly 7 quart bottles. Didn't do a drop pan and filter replacement.

2. For the transfer case and rear differential, after fully emptying, flush 80W90 until drain becomes light before tightening drain valve @ torque spec and start filling. Fill valve is adjusted at height to not overfill. When filling 80W90 oil, stop when noticing drip on fill valve, let fully drip before tightening fill valve. All in all I used 1.5 qt oil for the flush and fill of both, .45 qt for trnsfer case and .5 qt for rear differential. It's impt to NEVER CLEAN INTERNALS WITH OTHER CLEANING AGENTS, per Autozone tech. Just a regular flush and fill.

Just followed advice of Autozone tech.

A happy camper. :wink


Additional details:

Put in 300 miles on the RAV after the service, it's been performing pretty good. The thing I noticed significant is the quiet transitioning of gears when on freeway and merging. Didn't hear any premature gear shifting. Torque with turns also smooth and improved compared before. I believe what made a difference was doing all the 3 service at one shot. I'll probably do this service every 50k miles from now on.

* For safety, press on break steady when engine is on prior to shifting P to OD or vice versa especially when 2 wheels are chocked. When all 4 wheels are lifted with jack stands, no worries as long as jack points are stable. Safety goggles and gloves a must. Not a mechanic, a frustrated one. Just followed through what the gurus here have posted.

:)
 

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Sealed

After the ATF/transfer case/rear differential flush the car has been running smooth as ever. What sealed the deal was the carb and throttle cleaner. Picked one up at Advanced auto parts.

Grandpop didn't choke when he saw me spraying the cleaner, was wearing gloves and eye protector and a portable fire extinguisher was within reach just in case. "The engine was shut off when I started spraying, grandpop!"

Then he just quipped, "Just make sure the pivot of the plate gets cleaned so it freely opens, spray farther in and don't finish the whole bottle. Wipe the insides with clean cloth using your fingers, reach the farthest your fingers can reach to remove deposits, spray again to leave moisture in before closing the plate to thorough clean insides."

I started the engine after everything has been sealed shut, "Grandpop! It sounded like it's choking and it's emitting white smoke!"

"That's normal son. Leave it be and 3-5 mins it'll run smooth" He confidently said.

He was very particular of the throttle plate that it has to be sealed closed when engine is running to avoid sucking in air particulates so insides stay clean all the time.

Sounds to me like a winner. And now the car is running pristine as ever! Whew!

"You're the man grandpop!"

:D
 
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