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It's true. And it would have answered your question because all the steps are there along with photos of what Dl just exactly described to you. I'll see if I can get them swapped over and edit the post for future readers.
 

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It's true. And it would have answered your question because all the steps are there along with photos of what Dl just exactly described to you. I'll see if I can get them swapped over and edit the post for future readers.

I'd probably just recommend making your own thread. Never hurts to read new write ups or documentation on how other people do it... just as long as they don't use photo bucket! lol... :)
 

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Hi MyEeek, this is the return line on my '07 4 cyl Rav. It's usually the LOWER spigot on the trans.
After removing the hose clamp and the hose, attach a length of 3/8" clear plastic tube that has a short length of 3/8" copper pipe (see pic), to the HOSE just removed.

This should be done AFTER the pan's been removed, magnets cleaned, new filter fitted and pan replaced with new gasket etc.
When I drained mine, 4.5 litres came out, so I put 4.5 litres new fluid back. This is when you remove the return line (as above).

Start the engine in N (Neutral), this will start pushing the old tranny fluid out of the Torque Converter (which is good). Remove 3 litres then stop the engine. Add 3 litres of new fluid and repeat this until the fluid runs clean and red.

I bought 16 litres of fluid and it took approx 14 litres before it came clean.

(This job is easier with a second person.)

My trans now shifts like new and the fluid is nice and red. Good luck.
 

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Hi Don, I took my 2012 RAV4 V6 @65K to the dealer. They advised that there is a leak from Transmission side cover. They repaired by draining the old fluid, replace with new fluid and a Toyota sealant. They charged me 3.8 hrs of labour but practically veru small amount for sealant and ATF. Don, may I have your comments on this type of repair.

Arun
 

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Hi,

Planning to do the transmission fluid (will be replacing the left axle seal at the same time). for those who replaced the transmission filter/strainer. How's the third party filter? is it still going ok :D

Can't decide if I'm going to drop the pan or just do the drain/fill. I was talking to the dealership parts and he said I don't need to replace the transmission filter/strainer and just do a drain and fill. He said that he has to special order the filter/strainer if I wanted to but the price is really expensive. almost $180CDN compared to Wix 58618 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit which cost around $35.

If everyone who replaced their filter still have good recommendation of the third party esp the Wix 58618 then I might as well drop the pan and replace the filter :D or maybe just drop the pan and reuse the original filter/strainer.

We have 2006 Rav 4 Limited I4 4WD we are almost at 156KM.

Let us know :D
 

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My '12 Rav4 has 73K on it and I just did a second fluid evacuation and fill- I get 4 quarts out through the dipstick tunnel. At 100K I'm going to drop the pan and replace the filter. Each time I used the fluid evacuator the trans fluid is still bright red (I tow a utility trailer once in a while). I bought a case of Toyota WS from a dealer at a decent price (always ask for a corporate discount).
 

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I just wanted to post my experience and add to the collective knowledge.

I replaced the transmission fluid on my RAV4 yesterday with 69,000 miles on it. Since I am the second owner, I have no idea if the fluid was original or not. It did not looked burned and it didn't smell bad. It was a darker deeper color, almost as dark as a pinot noir. The previous owner was a house wife who used the SUV to shuttle kids back and forth, so no towing or anything extreme.

I put Valvoline Synthetic ATF fluid, full flush and a new filter. A buddy of mine has a shop and he let me use the flush machine which works exactly the same as this.

I am impressed with Valvoline ATF fluid! Everything is butter smooth. No more shudder when switching from P to R or from R to D. No more vibrations while in D waiting at the stop light. All shifts are so butter smooth you have to pay very close attention to even discern them. Kickdown is seamless and much much faster than before.

Overall I am very happy I did this. I will probably replace the fluid again at 90K or 100K miles.
 

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Was going to do the "drain and refill" on my trans now at 40,000 miles. Have read this thread and was thinking of using the Toyota fluid. About 4 quarts each time sound right?

Thanks.
 

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I use a Mityvac fluid evacuator. I get 4 qts trans fluid out through the dipstick tube. Easy and no mess.
thanks.
i will just drain via the plug and fill in via the dipstick hole and will probably do this twice.

since it has the stock toyota fluid in there, can i mix another brands ATF fluid while doing the mutli flush?

https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/transmax-fe-multivehicle.html

or

https://www.redlineoil.com/d6-atf
 

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thanks.
i will just drain via the plug and fill in via the dipstick hole and will probably do this twice.

since it has the stock toyota fluid in there, can i mix another brands ATF fluid while doing the mutli flush?

https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/transmax-fe-multivehicle.html

or

https://www.redlineoil.com/d6-atf

You should use the correct term drain and fill. A flush is different. You will not get the full benefit of using the Castrol or Redline fluid when you do 2 drain and fills unless you do a real flush. The torque converter holds half the fluid that never comes out. So what you are doing is mixing new fluid each time with the old fluid trapped inside the torque converter. Just use Toyota WS for drain and fills instead of mixing brands.
 

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thanks.
i will just drain via the plug and fill in via the dipstick hole and will probably do this twice.

since it has the stock toyota fluid in there, can i mix another brands ATF fluid while doing the mutli flush?

https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/automatic-transmission-fluids/transmax-fe-multivehicle.html

or

https://www.redlineoil.com/d6-atf
Mixing is fine IMO. My first drain and fill I use Amsoil OE. My next drain and fill Maxlife. After each drain and fill the color returned to a nice red, and it felt like it was shifting more smoothly (but I figured that was just a placebo). About to hit 100K and plan on doing another drain and fill with more Amsoil.
 

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Mixing is fine IMO. My first drain and fill I use Amsoil OE. My next drain and fill Maxlife. After each drain and fill the color returned to a nice red, and it felt like it was shifting more smoothly (but I figured that was just a placebo). About to hit 100K and plan on doing another drain and fill with more Amsoil.

Yes you can mix different fluids but that is not my point. My point is spending extra money on synthetic fluid which will not get the full benefit since the old fluid you are mixing with it is not as good. It is like taking half the engine oil out and adding synthetic oil. What you get is semi-synthetic blend with old oil in it.
 

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Hello all. It's probably somewhere is this thread but I didn't find the answers and I apologize for all the questions.What is the torque spec for both the drain plug and the pan bolts? Also does anybody know the crush washer part number? Oh, and when is the fluid level checked...when hot and in park? Thanks.
 

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Hello all. It's probably somewhere is this thread but I didn't find the answers and I apologize for all the questions.What is the torque spec for both the drain plug and the pan bolts? Also does anybody know the crush washer part number? Oh, and when is the fluid level checked...when hot and in park? Thanks.
I'll take the last one....fluid is checked fully warmed up, in park and on level ground.
 
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