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There is a #10 Allen socket drain bolt in the pan. But I wanted a fresh filter and a cleaned pan, so off it came.
Great work. Did you use the nominal amount of tranny fluid? Since you drained everything it should be that much. When draining from the drain bolt you have to measure volume yada yada yada. They also do some heating up of the tranny fluid etc. Was any of that necessary when dropping the pan? Guess not... but...
Thanks for posting, very useful!

:thumbs_up:
 

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Hi guys
Is it good oil for transmission for 2008 rav4 v6?
Description said meet requirements Toyota WS
20200106_125005.jpg
And what about pennzoil 75w90 gl-5 for transfer case and rear differential?
20200106_122639.jpg

And how much I need that oil?
5l for transmission but what about transfer case and rear differential?
Is it fair rice $9.50 cad for transmission oil 946ml bottle and $18 cad for 946 ml 75w90 gl-5? 75w-90 gl-4 cost even a bit more.
Because 5w20 5l Pennzoil Ultra platinum in that store cost unbelievable $68 cad, usually I get this oil for $30 cad on sale at Canadian tire.
 

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Hi guys
Is it good oil for transmission for 2008 rav4 v6?
Description said meet requirements Toyota WS
View attachment 148323
And what about pennzoil 75w90 gl-5 for transfer case and rear differential?
View attachment 148324

And how much I need that oil?
5l for transmission but what about transfer case and rear differential?
Is it fair rice $9.50 cad for transmission oil 946ml bottle and $18 cad for 946 ml 75w90 gl-5? 75w-90 gl-4 cost even a bit more.
Because 5w20 5l Pennzoil Ultra platinum in that store cost unbelievable $68 cad, usually I get this oil for $30 cad on sale at Canadian tire.
I use Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF and Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil. Can't comment on the Pennzoil but they do make good product overall in general. I use their full synthetic motor oil.

The t/c and r/d both use 1/2 quart each so 1 litre will be enough unless you spill some oil.

Prices for transmission oil and gear oil is higher in Canada so when I go to the US I pick up oil at Walmart or Napa.
 

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Thanks buddy!
I watched more videos and understand what probably need a bit more than I have 946ml. But have bottles Amsoil 80w90 at work shop so will add a bit that oil if need.
Really hope synthetic oil/fluid not so thick in winter compare to conventional oils and will add some mpgs to my Rav. Because now it's around 17-18 mpg with 15-20 minutes warm up idling and city driving.
 

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Thanks buddy!
I watched more videos and understand what probably need a bit more than I have 946ml. But have bottles Amsoil 80w90 at work shop so will add a bit that oil if need.
Really hope synthetic oil/fluid not so thick in winter compare to conventional oils and will add some mpgs to my Rav. Because now it's around 17-18 mpg with 15-20 minutes warm up idling and city driving.
The synthetic transmission and gear oil flow well in freezing temperature. If you do the rear differential I highly recommend that you clean the allen hex bolt of rust and hammer it in with a hammer. Many people round the inside of the hex bolt due to the inside filled with rust. I almost rounded mine and luckily I stopped to further reduce more damage.
 

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Thanks
Yes, I already see your post before about this age rust problem
Will try to be very careful with that hex bolts.
Here I applaud for Honda engineers who put for transmission and rear differential bolts with square hole for use ratchet without socket, yes, just ratchet. Did transmission fluid change in my previous 11 years old Civic and was impressed how much torque need apply for make first spin that bolt.
Thanks for remind!
 

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Also I pour 4 946ml bottles + red bottle lubegard, play with transmission selector, level was exactly on top mark "Cool", drive home about 10 miles, check level - just a bit higher from top mark Cool...
Dipstick feel really warm, but fluid level far from Hot mark
 

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Transmission level is checked with engine running, after you moved trough the gears.
Usually there are TWO marks for cold fluid and TWO marks for hot fluid. Your fluid needs to be in between the ones that correspond to the actual fluid temperature.

For the broken bolt you either have to try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW
Or you can let it be and see if it seeps.
 

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Your fluid needs to be in between the ones that correspond to the actual fluid temperature.
That's why I'm asking
Is it 10-11 miles, mostly highway, outside temperature around 0 -2°C, not enough for make transmission fluid hot?
Is it transmission fluid in your Rav4 raise till "Hot" mark while you drive?
 

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The transmission is "cooled" by the engine radiator. So drive until you get the engine to operating temperature, and your transmission will be also in the "HOT" range. If you have a code reader you can actually see the transmission temperature (it has a thermistor inside, so the engine ECU can read it).
 

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I have drained my fluid and replaced with 4Qt of Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Transmission already shifts better, seamless. I'll drive like 100 miles and do another change and tackle the filter too at that time.
I have researched all the fluids that I can get, and short of AMSOIL, this fluid was closer to the WS specs and synthetic.

Compared a few ATF WS compatible fluid specs and I noticed that the WS specs tend to have lower KV100 viscosity than other compatible. I don't think that is necesarellt a bad thing, especially when the transmission is an older design (mine is Toyota U151F, 5 speed derived from the 4 speed U241E designed in 2000).
So I have found: KV100 (cST); KV40 (cSt); Flash point (C/F)
Idemitsu TLS-LV: 5.3; 22.8; 170/338
Beck Arnley WS: 5.34; 23.12; 172/342
Valvoline MaxLife: 5.91; 28.82; N/A
Castrol TransMax FS: 5.90; 30.20; 177/350
LubeGuard Full Synth: 6.10; 31.0; 208/406
AMSOIL OE Synth Fuel Efficient: 5.8; 28.3; 210/410
AMSOIL Signature FE: 6.3; 30.8; 224/435
AISIN AFW+: 7.41; 36.69; 226/439

For comparation, the older TLS IV fluid has those specs: 7.3; 34.9; 200/392

This is a sample of my fluid at 50,300 miles:
149409
 

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I did the second drain and fill yesterday. The color wasn't much lighter than the first batch. So, poured the last one that I had and one more gallon of Valvoline MaxLife.

BTW, I used the whole gallon and today, after driving enough to warm it up properly, I had read the level on dipstick. It was exactly in the middle between "Hot" marks.
 

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Lucky because I filled till top mark Cold and after drive and check fluid was below bottom Hot mark. I top up 300 ml and still not enough when checking on Hot, need pour another 200 ml
 

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The Cold marks are not that precise. The Hot marks are where you should actually read, that's where the transmission "sits" most of the time.
My U151F took exactly 4 Qt, a whole jug of Valvoline LifeMax.
 

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Did you drop transmission pan and replace filter too?
Because some fluid left in pan and filter, maybe that's why I fill 4 x 946ml and 300 ml extra
 

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Not at this time. I have the filter on my desk, waiting for the drained fluid to become less dark/violet looking.
The extra 300ml is an insignificant difference IMO. Probably it gets into the fresh filter media. Although, if you wait enough time to drain, it will trickle that out too.

Anyway the 5 Qt of fluid that remains not drained is not in the pan. The torque converter is the one that holds the rest of the fluid and cannot be drained by gravity.

In bigger trucks (like my older Ford Explorer, based on the Bronco truck frame) there is a window in the transmission's bell housing, covered with a rubber seal. That provides access directly to the torque converter, and rotating the crankshaft by hand, will reveal a separate drain plug.
 
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