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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My vacuum lines were old, hard, cracked, and brittle (18 years in a hot engine compartment will do that to you) so it was time to replace them. Doing it while the engine was out just made it that much easier, this was part of my replacing the manual transmission project. If you still have the original equipment lines it's time, well it's probably past to replace them one and all.

I ordered these on ebay
- 3 meters of 6mm green high temperature silicone line
- 3 meters of 5mm red high temperature silicone line
- 3 meters of 4mm purple high temperature silicone line
- 3 meters of 3mm blue high temperature silicone line

I used almost all of it, I could have ordered 2 meters of the 4mm and 3mm but it's not expensive and I didn't want to run short. I used different colors for different sizes to make it easier to keep track of the sizes, and it looks good.

Advantages of the silicone, it is resistant to heat and most things under the hood except fuel. Don't use it for fuel or fuel vapor lines.

If you have a 2wd you won't need nearly as much 5mm

See photos:
A view of the engine showing vaccum hoses in place - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaUGxCR2RaS2ZCdms
A view of the evap cannister - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaMlhvaWJCQTg0QUU
A view of the engine compartment - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaWk5qTmtQbjdBYTQ
 

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My mechanic is away on the weekend and I want to get my daughters RAV out of the shop... I can't find the hose that attaches to the throttle body... Where does it go?

And which lines go to solenoids?? on the fire wall.

See pics.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The throttle body hose goes to the evap cannister under the master cylinder see the photo of the evap cannister, it's the black fuel line connected next to the air filter. Your's won't have a filter there, it will have a line going to your air intake system. You should use a fuel line because fuel vapors travel through that line.

Those VSVs are for the 4x4 transfer case actuator. See the red vacuum hoses in my photos of the back side of the engine. They have to be connected to the proper locations, I had mine numbered so I don't have an exact photo of where they go. I'll find something and post it shortly.
 

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I think the hose on the throttle body went down to the charcoal canister.

I see that eodgator already mentioned it.
 

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A charcoal cannister should have two hoses going to it: One to pull vacuum through the charcoal filter, and the other coming from a fuel vapor source, or vent.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A charcoal cannister should have two hoses going to it: One to pull vacuum through the charcoal filter, and the other coming from a fuel vapor source, or vent.
Correct, if you look at my picture you will see a hose coming from/to the fuel tank. The question was about the throttle body hose.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looking back on it, to prevent confusion for the 4x4 actuator, order different colors of 5mm for each line to color code it and make it easier to hook up right.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The silicone vacuum lines are heat and rot resistant and using different colors allows color coding. Replacing old deteriorated lines if you have leaks, will improve performance whether you use silicone or stock lines. Preventative maintenance is a another reason, if you replace the lines you can prevent many mechanical problems that will cause several different codes to open on the OBDII depending on the systems effected.
 

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Are they all the same size? Or one/size color for one specific line. Another size/color for another hose etc? I think it's a cool upgrade but save us the "figuring out" head ache. In other words; Share your knowledge! :nerd I know I've done this in this forum hundreds of times.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I initially did this one color for each size as follows.
  • 3 meters of 6mm green high temperature silicone line
  • 3 meters of 5mm red high temperature silicone line
  • 3 meters of 4mm purple high temperature silicone line
  • 3 meters of 3mm blue high temperature silicone line
Most of the red is 5mm is used on the 4x4 actuator if you don't have a 4x4 you can buy just 1m and have enough.

I had problems with getting the hookups right for the 4x4 actuator so I went back and color coded it.
Red 5mm - hose from the connector off by itself on the actuator (left it red actually because this one is so difficult to get to with the engine installed) to the lower position on the passenger side vsv
Orange 5mm - "0" on the actuator to the upper position on the VSV closest to the driver
Lime Green 5mm - "2" on the actuator to VSV this line splits and one goes to the bottom of the VSV closest to the driver the other end goes to the top of the other VSV
Purple 4mm - unmarked on actuator to intake vacuum splitter
Purple 4mm - intake vacuum splitter to MAP sensor
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll try to draw up a vacuum line illustration for the 4x4 actuator.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, I finally got around to doing the transfer case actuator vacuum line diagram.

 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I noticed that this did not include the power steering pump vacuum hoses for the idle up so here is that info.

The vacuum fitting (17630 - VALVE ASSY, AIR CONTROL) is where the vacuum lines attach to the power steering pump.

The vacuum line listed as 17344G - HOSE, AIR, NO.4 attaches to the above and runs to the hose barb pointing towards the engine on the rigid vacuum pipe (17361G - TUBE, AIR(FOR IDLE-UP). This rigid pipe is located above the power steering pump.

The vacuum line listed as 17345B - HOSE, NO.5(FOR IDLE-UP) attaches to the above and runs to the hose barb pointing back towards the power steering pump on the rigid vacuum pipe (17361G - TUBE, AIR(FOR IDLE-UP). This rigid pipe is located above the power steering pump.



In this picture you can see the red vacuum lines coming off vacuum fitting 17630, and it is easy to see the line running from that fitting to the hose barb pointing towards the power steering pump. The other is blocked a bit by other vacuum lines but you can see the red line attaching to the hose barb pointing towards the engine.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had made one of these vacuum line diagrams before based on a hand drawn one I got from a nearby Toyota dealership maintenance department however, it was way off so I deleted it, here is the real thing.

In the below illustration it shows vacuum lines "0" and "2" location on the VSVs, that was key because two of the vacuum ports on the transfer actuator are labeled "0" and "2" the other ports are unlabeled. The unlabeled port next to "2" on the transfer actuator is a smaller diameter than the others and that matches the size coming from the intake manifold. The split line that goes to ports "1" and "3" on the VSVs is left going to the lone port on the secondary vacuum chamber.

I did confirm that this works on my 99 RAV4; I don't know if all the models are exactly alike.



 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
A guide for the easier way to do get to get to the vacuum actuator to install the vacuum lines.

Materials needed (you can use different colored lines, these are just suggestions)(I got the colors and great quality hoses from ebay.com):
2 ft - 5mm black silicone high temp vacuum line
2 ft - 5mm green silicone high temp vacuum line
2 ft - 5mm blue silicone high temp vacuum line
2 ft - 3mm red silicone high temp vacuum line
Reuse the vacuum line splitter and anti-chafe tubing

Tools needed:
- long reach needle nose pliers
- jack
- jack stand

Procedure:
- Jack the passenger side up at the "frame" just behind the engine to lift the tire off the ground and place a jack stand under the car for safety. Set the brake, chock the rear tires. The reason you jack it up is to make it easier to work under the car and to drop the tie rod down so you can get your arm in there.
- Assemble your vacuum lines using the anti chafe material provided or replace with new material, remember it gets really hot here so if you are replacing it use something heat resistant.
- Lower the assembled hoses behind the engine roughly into place.
- Install the blue line (#3) first, this is the most difficult and you are probably not going to do it if you have large arms and fingers. The location is under the black (#0) vacuum line, you cannot see it you have to feel for it, you will feel one of the mounting bolts move your hand around until you feel the vacuum port. Grab the hose between two fingers like holding a cigarette and push it on, it is not an easy job and it can be frustrating but it is doable.
- Using long reach needle nose pliers put the other hoses on starting at the 3mm hose
- Once the lower hoses are on, connect them to the appropriate locations on the VSVs according to the diagram
 
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