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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello i was wondering is it a lot of work to change the valve head on my toyota rav4 2.0 16v 1998 ?
 

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Valve head?


Do you mean valve cover gasket?


I do not know your skill level, and since there are many things, that if not done right, can make the job go south fast, I cannot say whether you can do it successfully without issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Valve head?


Do you mean valve cover gasket?


I do not know your skill level, and since there are many things, that if not done right, can make the job go south fast, I cannot say whether you can do it successfully without issues.
I just did all the maintenance including the timingbelt so this is now .........

No i mean the cylinderhead i now i have to buy all new gaskets and bolts and measere the streatnes of cylinderhead clean it all very wel with acetone and make sure the gasket is on the right way.

I have all the tools torque wrenches en such so thats no problem, the only problem is i have no garage to do it in becaus i live in the woods here and its fall over here means much rain and cold.

But nothing has been warm because its just a krak bij tichtening the oilsensor to much and i can't get it fixt any other way.

But i am just afraid of the work behind the engine because i have big hands and its very small there to onbold some thing .

So is this worth it diy yourself or is it very much work and how long would it take aprox either way it has to be done becaus its my daily drive ?

Sorry for my bad english but i am belgian i live in the region of bastogne where the batle of the bulge have taken place in the second worldwar.
 

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Changing the valve cover gasket which is above the valves is easy compared to the head gasket below the valves. Why do you think either gasket needs to be changed?
 

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he has cracked his head by over-tightening the oil pressure sensor and cannot get it to seal up, so now he is sourcing a replacement head.
 

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If your in the Bastogne area I can well imagine that its cold and wet. try buying a car tent to put over it, that way you can work indoors and not worry about rain and snow. if you have everything you need, you could do the job in a weekend. just do some research on the Toyota 3S engines and get a technical manual if you do not already have one (Haynes will do)
 

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he has cracked his head by over-tightening the oil pressure sensor and cannot get it to seal up, so now he is sourcing a replacement head.
Ouch, that doesn't bode well for a DIY mechanic with "big hands" on a much more involved job. (You are much better at interpreting "its just a krak bij tichtening the oilsensor" than I.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I contacted someone that restores engines also for racing sport.

He said it could be repaired.

He would close the hole and pull new wire to replace the oil sensor.

On Monday he will contact me to tell me the cost for this repair he said it would not be much.

I hoop so because i don't won't to change the valve-head :frown
 

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I contacted someone that restores engines also for racing sport.

He said it could be repaired.

He would close the hole and pull new wire to replace the oil sensor.

On Monday he will contact me to tell me the cost for this repair he said it would not be much.

I hoop so because i don't won't to change the valve-head :frown
Yeh I would try cutting it back and re-tapping it, just make sure no swarf goes down the hole (use an earplug or somthing as I mentioned in the other thread), vaccuum the swarf out and extract the plug at the end.
 

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No need to remove the cylinder head for this.


I would find a good aluminum welder since the other piece seems to be fully intact. A good aluminum welder can put it back like new without rerouting anything.


If you don't want to go that route, buy a pipe extension of the same metric thread, tap the hole deeper using heavy grease on the tap to hold the chips, and when you are finished, have some rags handy and a helper. Disable the ignition, and crank the engine over to flush out the remaining chips. If you let it start you will have Mount Vesuvius in your face.


Remember next time, pipe threads are tapered, and if over tightened, will crank the most expensive part. Teflon sealer is recommended, and is what makes the seal.


I had a mechanic friend who overhauled the manual transmission in his hotrod Camaro. He tightening the filler plug as the last step, and heard the ominous "crack" He had to pull it back out, replace the case, and not make the same mistake again. Since this transmission was behind a 500hp small block, he was concerned that if the crack was welded, it would be a weak spot, destined for explosion at launch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today a welder has come for my car and said it would probably be fixt by tomorow.

But he had to see if it was just aluminium or aluminium-magnesium i think its just aluminium right ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Today I got my car back.

It was made by a welder I am very happy now I can ride again.

It has cost me 321.88 dollars 283.00 euros.

But now I have another problem I used the C-DIFLOCK button to test the car in 4WD.

Now If I push the button back in the light of the diflock goes on the dashboard goes off but the beeper keeps going ?
 

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Looks good, but where is the sensor mounted now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks good, but where is the sensor mounted now?
No oilsensor anymore and i really don't need it . When the light comes on its usuly already to late.

Ik check my engine every 3 day's anyway oil and so on :laugh
 
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