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Wish I knew how to delete the other thread I had.

I received an error "voltage error regulator" when the alternator was tested at autozone. It can't be the alternator, I had it tested prior to installing it. Just got a brand new battery yesterday. Also not the fuses they look fine nothing looks burnt out. Where exactly is the alternator fuse located? I checked the ones near the battery terminal and the other two locations under the hood and one location inside the car. Nada.

Any ideas????
 

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Please do not delete threads, that removes data from the forum making the search feature less effective.

I see in the other post that the alternator reads 13.1 volts. Is this test done at idle? Lights, ac or anything else turned on?
The voltage test should be done about 2,000rpm or a little higher.

The alternator has 2 connectors, one is a ring terminal and should read the battery voltage at all times.
The 2nd connector has 3 wires. Pin 2 in the middle goes to ground. Pin 3 has battery voltage at all times and pin 1 has battery voltage when the ignition is on.
If these are the reading you find then all the fuses in the charging circuit are good. You could have other electrical problems but not here.

Just to note, the voltage regulator is inside the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Please do not delete threads, that removes data from the forum making the search feature less effective.

I see in the other post that the alternator reads 13.1 volts. Is this test done at idle? Lights, ac or anything else turned on?
The voltage test should be done about 2,000rpm or a little higher.

The alternator has 2 connectors, one is a ring terminal and should read the battery voltage at all times.
The 2nd connector has 3 wires. Pin 2 in the middle goes to ground. Pin 3 has battery voltage at all times and pin 1 has battery voltage when the ignition is on.
If these are the reading you find then all the fuses in the charging circuit are good. You could have other electrical problems but not here.

Just to note, the voltage regulator is inside the alternator.
The AC is on full blast when I did the test. 2,000rpm. I will do this today and make sure the car is at that mark. I'll report back. I found this electrical guide:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec05.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you so much for your advice!!!! I knew something was WRONG. The guys at Autozone didn't know to tell me to keep the engine at 2000+ RPM. I tried as best as I could to get it to 2000 RPM, and it went a bit higher, but I did get these readings:
Battery Voltage measured at 12.58 - It's a brand new Costco Kirkland Battery
Alternator Readings:
Voltage at 14.10 when higher than 2000 RPM, and 13.10-13.12 when a bit lower. I think that's a pass!

This leads me to conclude that I had no "error" of any kind, and that my car driving with a bit of a "pull" to it is just normal when the AC is on. It definitely feels different - and I am not sure if this has always been this way, maybe I just need to get used to it.
 

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It could be a grounding problem--common on the 4.1's. I've heard that installing a new, large gauge ground wire from the frame to the negative post of the battery as well as a new ground from the engine block to the frame can work wonders.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It could be a grounding problem--common on the 4.1's. I've heard that installing a new, large gauge ground wire from the frame to the negative post of the battery as well as a new ground from the engine block to the frame can work wonders.
Another guy at Autozone gave me a DIFFERENT answer. He said that their meter will NOT give you an accurate reading if you insist on getting to 2000 RPM. Their meters, according to him should read when the engine is simply on and IDLE.

Apparently - I still get the same exact problem: regulator voltage problem.

I changed the alternator out! Fuses are fine. Maybe grounding is the problem? Gauge ground wire from the frame to the negative post you say? I mean, is it "bad" to just leave this "problem" alone? I had no idea this problem even existed before, if it did exist at all.

I want to take it to the Toyota dealer to get it checked out - but at $150 bucks basically that's a lot to just find out the source of a problem. I am thinking I might go to Firestone or something like that to try to get to the bottom of this!
 

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Toyota has published the 2,000rpm with everything off, in a lot of places including the guide you posted. I would listen to Toyota before Autozone.

The voltages you list are a pass.
Drive your Rav4 and enjoy.
 
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