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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 08 Rav 4 with the I4 engine (135,000 kms) and I've got lots of pink crust at the bottom of my pump at the weep hole. I may as well change it before any long trips.

I think I can change it but I want to remove the engine mount also. When I changed my serpentine belt a few months ago, i removed all the bolts on top of the engine mount but it wouldn't budge. What else holds it there? Is there a bolt or nut accessed from below?

Also, should I change my belt tensioner while I'm in there? It seems sluggish.... Is this a known failure part?

Thanks

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone ever take that mount off to change the pump?
 

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yes, on everything in there. water pump,belt tensioner, belt ,coolant ,tstat and check the rear pulley for any noises/play, never really any problems with the rear idler pulley, you will have to remove the coolant reservoir and the front right motor mount attached to frame, just the bolts 17mm and jack up motor, so just drain all coolant from rad, block and reservoir and get the actual Toyota FIPG stuff......you pay for what you get, there is a difference in RTV sealants. i did it at 110,000 miles, had the pink crust at the bottom of water pump, after looking at it closely the engine builder was sparse on the FIPG sealant and caused a leak, there was a slight void, your pump may be still good like mine was if that's the case. since you got the 08' I4 motor, not sure if you got the "oil eater" i got my motor rebuilt under the ZE7 warranty at 149,500 miles and the dealer said pump is bad......blah blah blah, the vehicle makes a living for me as a FE tech and my company gives me $3,400 annually plus mileage for upkeep, so i told them let's go my route, rebuild motor plus valve job,timing chain, motor mounts.....just about everything(note: i do my own car repairs, prior to ZE7 rebuild i already did struts/shocks/brakes/rotors, brake fluid flush/trans flush with many front end suspension parts...so i was in deep, i run this thing hard and it keeps going. Additionally just replace alternator the bearing was noisy, don't want to breakdown on road.
here is a good video on steps.....its short and to the point. Good Luck!

 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks very much for the reply!

I already changed the belt and coolant but when I was changing the belt, I found it near impossible to get at, so I tried to remove the engine mount. It's different from the one in the video. Mine wouldn't budge after I removed all the bolts! I thought maybe there was a bolt that I had to get from underneath??

Thanks

Kevin
 

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yes, its a camry in the video, but its the same steps, just a different mount.....belt removal you do not need to remove it, just the coolant reservoir allows easier access, i use the mount to hold the tension off the belt/tensioner with a 2x4 cut like a wedge or door stop.....cut on a 45 degree angle the width of the 2x4 , this can be used against the mount and socket handle applied on the belt tensioner nut, 19MM.....this allows you to slip the belt off/on, i'll post a pic if i get chance.
 

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yes, its a camry in the video, but its the same steps, just a different mount.....belt removal you do not need to remove it, just the coolant reservoir allows easier access, i use the mount to hold the tension off the belt/tensioner with a 2x4 cut like a wedge or door stop.....cut on a 45 degree angle the width of the 2x4 , this can be used against the mount and socket handle applied on the belt tensioner nut, 19MM.....this allows you to slip the belt off/on, i'll post a pic if i get chance.

Thanks very much!

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My water pump is still working ok and I haven't noticed any coolant on the ground or garage floor , but I recently checked my belt and it is quite loose. When I replaced it not long ago, I noticed the tensioner seemed to break loose and was easier to retract the shock type tensioner when I put the belt back on.. It doesn't seem to be working properly so I might tear into it soon and replace that and the pump.
I checked on Rock Auto and the tensioner assembly comes in two different types. One identical to mine and one with a spring instead of the shock. Anyone use these yet? Also, Can I just replace my "shock" instead of the whole assembly? (plate , pulley and shock)
 

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That isn't really a "shock", I'm sure there is a spring in that first one, just not exposed like the second one. If yours looks like the first one and it failed, maybe you should try the second one, it looks a little more substantial.
 

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yes....got from rockauto, dayco type with 90K miles on the replacement....no problems so far, again you will have to remove the top engine mount and jack up motor to clear the frame, additionally lift up and move coolant reservoir for better access, i did post a video from youtube showing the common steps from a camry.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The video is "similar" to what I see on mine , but my motor mount is different and directly in the way and has to come out. I tried removing it before by removing all the bolts on top, but it wouldn't budge. There must be another nut or bolt from underneath.


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Myravis.....does your motor mount look like the one in the video or like mine in the pics below? If it looks like mine, how did you remove your motor mount? If my belt tensioner and water pump parts come in soon, I might tackle this job on the weekend.
(Not sure why the pics are sideways?)
 

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yes, this is what you are dealing with. pic from ebay. you can remove 3-17MM bolts attached to black powder coated mount assembly or you can remove the 2- 17mm that go thru the mount alum-alloy into frame that is causing the obstruction or limiting you to fully extract the tensioner bolt in to side of engine block........or you can just drill a larger hole than that frame obstruction, which will most likely be a miserable experience!.....i opted to remove the 2-17MM bolts and jacked up engine just like the guy in the video, yes its a camry, but same technique......added note: you can use a piece of firewood like he did in the video to jack up engine under his oil pan, scary!
 

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Myravis.....does your motor mount look like the one in the video or like mine in the pics below? If it looks like mine, how did you remove your motor mount? )
maybe this will help, it's fairly simple to remove, you need to have patience when extracting the bolt/tensioner asm......just take your time. Added Note: if you ever need to remove the drive accessory idler pulley.....the one closet to the firewall.....DONT! I got jammed up chasing noises in that area(was the alternator internal bearing failing, that was the last thing i replaced after ZE7 warranty engine rebuild) used a 10mm ratcheting "one-way speedo" and went to far extracting bolt .....i'm sure you know what happen next :crying ,had to break out the sawzall, cut the bolt got a 10mm x 40mm bolt a lowes with a flat smooth shank, the original bolt is about 2.5 inches(65mm)??? again, i was chasing noises in that area and that pulley has what seems to be excessive play??? , so just don't f' with it unless it seized up......i don't think even jack'n the motor up will have enuff clearance to remove, if you want to play with it go ahead......:crying Good Luck, shout out if your still jammed up figuring this thing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
maybe this will help, it's fairly simple to remove, you need to have patience when extracting the bolt/tensioner asm......just take your time. Added Note: if you ever need to remove the drive accessory idler pulley.....the one closet to the firewall.....DONT! I got jammed up chasing noises in that area(was the alternator internal bearing failing, that was the last thing i replaced after ZE7 warranty engine rebuild) used a 10mm ratcheting "one-way speedo" and went to far extracting bolt .....i'm sure you know what happen next :crying ,had to break out the sawzall, cut the bolt got a 10mm x 40mm bolt a lowes with a flat smooth shank, the original bolt is about 2.5 inches(65mm)??? again, i was chasing noises in that area and that pulley has what seems to be excessive play??? , so just don't f' with it unless it seized up......i don't think even jack'n the motor up will have enuff clearance to remove, if you want to play with it go ahead......:crying Good Luck, shout out if your still jammed up figuring this thing out.
Thanks very much for the information! I think I know what you're talking about, it's been awhile since I was looking in there. I do know that I tried to remove that mount already and could not. I remember removing 4-5 large bolts and it wouldn't budge. I thought there had to be something underneath holding it in.
Are you saying the two lower 17mm bolts will get the mount out? If so , that should be easy.....I'm just waiting for parts from Rock Auto , then I'll tackle the job.
Thanks for the heads up on on the idler....I certainly won't make this job any longer than I have to. I can't believe how little room there is to work in there too?

thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Parts came in. I was so surprised how small the water pump is!

The job of changing the water pump and belt tensioner took me about 4hrs. I wasn't in a hurry either.
I was almost fully assembled when I noticed I still had 1 water pump bolt left!! It had rolled underneath a towel and I didn't see it. Apart came the motor mount again, removed the pump pulley again and re-installed the last bolt wayyy underneath everything! I can't imagine having to work on these vehicles for a living.....no easy access to anything.
I was surprised that I only needed 4 litres of antifreeze. I thought i would need at least 1.5 jugs. I drained the engine block, then the radiator , then some even came out of where the water pump mounts. Even after a few engine heat cycles , the level in the upper tank hasn't dropped.
You tube helped with the location of the engine and radiator drain cocks. Easy to access...

I added a few pics of how it looked. When I originally tried to get the motor mount off , i couldn't and wondered if there was another bolt or nut holding it down from underneath. Well, there was! In the pic, im holding the nut to the bolt that is only accessed from underneath. Once all that crap is out of the way, it's much easier to get at the belt, tensioner and pump.
 

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