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i changed the original battery after 5 years and 2 months, not because it is giving problem to start the engine but it is leaking from top and a bit bloated on all 4 sides.

i replaced it. with Toyota OEM battery. :)
 

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I think I'm goin for the record. I just replaced my first battery in my 2007.

Now having said that I used to have a business refurbishing dead batteries so it did have some serious surgery on it, and I always plug in a charger that runs on a timer so it gets a little juice about an hour a day. And I always check the water levels periodically.

A friend of mine has a desulfator and charger hooked up to his 12 year old Corvette and the battery works like a charm, mind you he only drives on nice days in the summer.

I was shocked that Toyota only charged 165. CanD. for the new battery and has a 7 year warranty. With what I know and do, this will be a 15 year battery. Unless I decide to spring for a Tesla. OOOOOU Ya!
 

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Interstate battery from Costco

have an '10 Sport of which OEM battery died June 2015. replaced it with interstate from costco. last week battery died so trickle charged it. seems ok but 1st crank is slow then spins fine. it's a daily driver but mostly city. i had problems with delco batteries on my vette so after the 3rd replacement, broke down and bought an optima. I didn't want to have to spend that much for the rav4 but it's wife's car and of course it will die at the most inappropriate time. it died just before heading out to a wedding. anyone else finding first couple of cranks slow then speeding up? is it just a quirky thing?
 

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I've owned a 2011 Limited for 2 years. Last night the battery died, 2 hours after a 30 minute drive on the highway (should have been well charged). No previous sign of impending failure.

The dead battery was a Bosch w/ 800 CCA, 3 years old. Since the car is 6 years, it appears the original factory battery lasted 3 years as well.

I replaced it w/ a WalMart EverStart Maxx because it was 11pm and that was all that was available at the time, and I needed to get it dealt with instead of waiting until today when the auto parts store was open.

I owned another vehicle that ate batteries every 3 years, no matter if I paid top dollar for the best and biggest battery that could be squeezed into it. In a Subaru Outback I owned for 16 years, the batteries lasted 7 years consistently.
 

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This is curious. My RAV4 4-cylinder seems to eat battery every 3 years or so. My last one was a Costco Kirkland battery with 100-month warranty that lasted only two years, now replaced under warranty with Costco-sold Interstate battery with 3 1/2 year replacement warranty.

I hope it fails before the warranty is up. :)
 

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The dead battery was a Bosch w/ 800 CCA, 3 years old. Since the car is 6 years, it appears the original factory battery lasted 3 years as well.
The stock battery in our RAV has a CCA of 582 amps. Seems like 800 CCA is over kill. In order to achieve a higher CCA they need to have more "plates" in each cell. In doing so each of the plates is thinner and "wear out" sooner. Generally a lower CCA battery will last longer than a higher.

Our RAV's stock battery also came with a "blanket". A foam wrap that goes around the battery to insulate it from engine heat. The earlier models might not have this but might benefit from this. Heat is the REAL killer of batteries not cold. Cold conditions don't allow the electron producing reaction, and thus you might not get the need juice to start the car, but the cold itself does not harm the battery.

We are on the 4th year of the OEM battery. Based on this thread I have been looking out for signs of battery failure. So far things have been working well. Temp wise out car sees lows around 10-20's, and highs in the 80-90s. IMO this is perfect temps for battery longevity. I recently replaced a battery in another car of mine after 10 years of service. Not driving the car much also helps.
 

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I've owned a 2011 Limited for 2 years. Last night the battery died, 2 hours after a 30 minute drive on the highway (should have been well charged). No previous sign of impending failure.

The dead battery was a Bosch w/ 800 CCA, 3 years old. Since the car is 6 years, it appears the original factory battery lasted 3 years as well.

I replaced it w/ a WalMart EverStart Maxx because it was 11pm and that was all that was available at the time, and I needed to get it dealt with instead of waiting until today when the auto parts store was open.

I owned another vehicle that ate batteries every 3 years, no matter if I paid top dollar for the best and biggest battery that could be squeezed into it. In a Subaru Outback I owned for 16 years, the batteries lasted 7 years consistently.
I got 5 yrs/64k out of the OEM battery in my 2010 Rav, but I live in a more temperate zone. As mentioned, heat is the killer here.
 

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The Bosch was installed by the previous owner. I noted the date when I pulled it, and deduced the 3 year life of the first two batteries. It gave no warning, just quit holding a charge all at once.

The replacement has 640 CCA. If there had been a higher CCA option at the time, I'd have bought it.

This car has the foam battery blanket.
 

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Our RAV's stock battery also came with a "blanket". A foam wrap that goes around the battery to insulate it from engine heat. The earlier models might not have this but might benefit from this. Heat is the REAL killer of batteries not cold. Cold conditions don't allow the electron producing reaction, and thus you might not get the need juice to start the car, but the cold itself does not harm the battery.
My stock battery had this blanket. When the Toyota dealer replaced it under warranty at 2 years, they must have thrown away the blanket. I didn't notice it until much later. I just replaced the battery again, so now it's on the 4th battery in less than 8 years! Our winters are usually less than 3 months, and it rarely gets below freezing. But our long hot summers do take their toll on a battery.
 

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My first OEM battery only lasted 39 months, so when I saw corrosion on my replacement battery (Johnson Controls, Les Schwab branded) now at 52 months, I thought she's done. I started having some trouble codes pop up and then a no-start, signs of a nearly dead battery.





But not so fast. After cleaning and tightening the terminals, the codes went away, the voltage on my onboard voltmeter stayed solid at 14.1 volts or so while running.

So after the cleanup, took it to the Les Schwab shop. It tested okay, with 567 CCA remaining on the 700 CCA rated battery. I'm in the prorated phase of an 84-month warranty, which means I would get about $40 back on my $100 battery if it dies this month. Will keep a close eye on it. Maybe will get a few more months...
 

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It tested okay, with 567 CCA remaining on the 700 CCA rated battery. I'm in the prorated phase of an 84-month warranty, which means I would get about $40 back on my $100 battery if it dies this month.
So your battery is now capable of delivering 80% of the CCA it did when new. At what point is it considered "dead". Depending on the climate in which your vehicle operates, you may be able to drop as low as 25% of the original CCA and still start the engine. The additional 55% drop won't likely occur in one month.

I guess measuring CCA is an automotive standard for measuring battery capacity, but for most applications battery capacity is measured in AMP-HOURS or simply AH. I often see automotive battery ratings in which one battery will have a higher CCA rating than another battery, and yet it will have a lower AH rating. That simply means the higher CCA battery will give one good kick at starting the engine in the morning, but will need a boost if the headlights are left on for 15 minutes.
 

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They only gave me the CCA, no AH, and deemed the battery "good." So I'll keep rolling along. I'd love to see the battery go the prorated distance.

I was kind of concerned how fast the corrosion built up--the car had sat outside in freezing weather unused for about 2 weeks, so maybe that had some effect. Also, prior to that, I'd been playing in the snow, busting through some deep snow berms for a few days, testing the limits of the AWD. It may have jarred the battery cables a little.

I was super happy the false codes went away after I cleaned the terminals. (The most common was O2 sensor for some reason.) Thanks to this forum thread I was alerted to the possibility of electrical gremlins caused by a failing battery. In my case the battery was okay, just the terminal connection was degraded.
 

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Hello Everybody,

I found this forum while I was searching a solution for my Rav4 2012.


Problem: Two weeks ago, my car didn't start an I thought its a battery got drained. I replaced a new battery and after connecting cables, I tried to start it and it didn't start also. I got advise from a friend to put the switch to ON and then move the shift from P to L and then return it to P. After that I started the car and it actually started. It worked fine 1 week and after that one time I wanted to start it and it didn't. I repeated what I did first time to move the shift from P to L and it worked fine. This happen to me three times so far.

my friend told me moving the shift from P to L and return it means "reset car system" and I don't know if this is correct or not.



What is the problem? is it normal? How can I fix it?


Thanks a lot
 

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Hello Everybody,

I found this forum while I was searching a solution for my Rav4 2012.


Problem: Two weeks ago, my car didn't start an I thought its a battery got drained. I replaced a new battery and after connecting cables, I tried to start it and it didn't start also. I got advise from a friend to put the switch to ON and then move the shift from P to L and then return it to P. After that I started the car and it actually started. It worked fine 1 week and after that one time I wanted to start it and it didn't. I repeated what I did first time to move the shift from P to L and it worked fine. This happen to me three times so far.

my friend told me moving the shift from P to L and return it means "reset car system" and I don't know if this is correct or not.



What is the problem? is it normal? How can I fix it?


Thanks a lot
Welcome to RAV4World! The problem is your neutral safety switch. It's a switch mounted on the transmission that prevents the engine from starting unless the transmission is in either Park or Neutral. The switch may need to be adjusted or replaced.

Next time this happens, try switching from Park to Neutral and see if it starts.
 

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Welcome to RAV4World! The problem is your neutral safety switch. It's a switch mounted on the transmission that prevents the engine from starting unless the transmission is in either Park or Neutral. The switch may need to be adjusted or replaced.

Next time this happens, try switching from Park to Neutral and see if it starts.


Thanks a lot for prompt reply.

I will do next time if it doesn't start. But is this a serious problem or normal thing with rav4? and which part of the switch need to be replaced?

I am afraid if I go to far place as I am frequent traveler and the car doesn't start. I want to make sure everything run well.
 

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Thanks a lot for prompt reply.

I will do next time if it doesn't start. But is this a serious problem or normal thing with rav4? and which part of the switch need to be replaced?

I am afraid if I go to far place as I am frequent traveler and the car doesn't start. I want to make sure everything run well.
The entire switch would be replaced. This TSB from Toyota covers this issue:

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/106-4-3-tsbs/77579-tsb-0348-09-intermittent-no-crank-no-start-09-30-09-a.html
 

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starting issue

tried to start my 2011 rav4 V6 today and it cranked for about ten seconds and didn't start till i tapped the throttle
Battery is good
alternator is charging the battery
Starter and battery have good connection
Anyone had this issue or something similar and know how to fix it or what it is?
It starts up fine now i am just concerned that it was the precursor to something else
 
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