A while back I noticed my windshield washer on the passenger side seemed weak, while the one on the driver's side was too strong:
The first thing I thought of was the passenger side spray nozzle was clogged. The first thing most people suggest is poking a pin or needle into the nozzle, but DON'T DO IT, at least not on a late model RAV4. Our vehicles use a special nozzle that sprays a fan-shaped pattern onto the glass, and poking a pin or needle in there can damage them:
Determined to find the problem, I started digging. Following the washer hose along the hinge and into the hood, it disappears behind the hood insulation:
This is the hood insulation in place:
It has to be removed to troubleshoot the washer lines. The insulation is partially held in place by 2 metal hooks:
And also by 7 of these plastic fasteners:
The fasteners have to be carefully pried out. They can be quite stubborn, and when they do release, have a tendency to go flying into the nether reaches of the engine bay. I ended up breaking 4 of them:
Luckily, the local AutoZone had some for *only* $3 for a 2-pack. Probably would have been cheaper at the dealership:
After the insulation is removed, set it aside:
Here's what the washer tubing lines look like under that insulation:
As you can see, there is a T fitting that routes the main washer hose line into a separate line for driver's side and passenger side nozzles. But this thing is much more than a simple T fitting:
Not only does it regulate the pressure between the nozzles, it is also a check valve that prevents the washer fluid from draining back into the reservoir. If there is a significant delay between pulling the wash lever and the spray appearing, you may have a bad valve. In my case, swapping the 2 output lines caused a weak spray on the driver's side, so I knew it was the culprit. A quick trip to my dealership's part counter yielded a replacement--Part No. 85321-28020, Valve Sub Assy:
*Only* $20 AFTER I asked the parts guy for a discount! Yes, you can find it cheaper online, but after paying for shipping, who knows? It was then a simple task to replace the bad valve for this one. Then putting the rubber lines back into place. One line goes into the plastic clip and the other was secured to the plastic tab with blue tape:
Then it's time to put the insulation back. First, secure the insulation on the 2 metal tabs then push the 7 plastic fasteners in place. They go in a lot easier than they came out:
The final result--a nice even spray all over the windshield:
My 2009 Corolla have the same problem as you have. Same part. Part cost C$38 +14% tax at dealer and have to be order in. Too much for such a small part. I just drilled it and it works fine.
Good write up JuneBug. I am surprised that part can even go bad and bet most people will take it to the dealer to get it fixed at an inflated repair job.
I was just curious if you try blowing compressed air into the old part whether that would loosen any debris stuck inside. I would think it flows only in one direction from the washer pump and that is the end to blow from.
Good write up JuneBug. I am surprised that part can even go bad and bet most people will take it to the dealer to get it fixed at an inflated repair job.
I was just curious if you try blowing compressed air into the old part whether that would loosen any debris stuck inside. I would think it flows only in one direction from the washer pump and that is the end to blow from.
Neither did I. I still don't know what function the hood insulation serves. After driving for 2 weeks with it removed, I didn't notice any increase in noise. Is it supposed to shield the hood from engine heat? It already gets pretty hot just sitting in the summer sun down here.
Neither did I. I still don't know what function the hood insulation serves. After driving for 2 weeks with it removed, I didn't notice any increase in noise. Is it supposed to shield the hood from engine heat? It already gets pretty hot just sitting in the summer sun down here.
Yeah, probably, but the passenger side would spray farther because that hose is shorter. I like to keep my Toyota as OEM as possible, but if that valve fails again, I will try your idea.
Couple of observations reading this thread, first I think the reason for the check valve is so that the washer hoses remain full between uses. If you've ever run the washer reservoir dry, you know it can take a bit of time to prime the system and get it working again. Imagine that wait every time you went to use the washer?
The blanket is mostly for noise suppression is my understanding. Some cars leave such blankets out for the cheaper trim models. If it were safety thing I would think it would never be left out.
I had the same problem with my RAV4 several months back. I also balked at the outrageous price for such a tiny piece of plastic. In the end I just used a T fitting. If there is any delay in the fluid getting to the nozzles it is very short. Spray patterns seem fine as well.
My passenger nozzle on my 2013 went weak the other day as well. Ordered a replacement off amazon but it ended up not working for jack squat either. Ended up using a vacuum line T fitting and all is well again. Seems to be working perfectly! Unless you're super conceded about keeping things OEM or having a check valve, I'd just save your cash and use a T.
