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Week-end Off-Road Warrior

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I'm frequently going off road with my 2001 RAV4. It's lifted 40mm, has a ST205 torsen in the rear diff... and the tires are BF all terrain K02 (LT225/75/16). My friends, who are ''true 4x4'' guys, are often surprised how my trucklet is capable of. The main difference with their vehicule, is the lack of low range on the RAV4. Even if I take my time, I'm going everywhere so rapidly compared to them... always waiting for them! But in long and very inclined hills, the power to the wheels is insufficient and the engine wants to die. I sometimes have to ''clutch-kick'' if I want to avoid the engine to stall in first gear going up-hill. I know that the RAV4.1 has a better transmission ratio with the E250F (4.93 compared to my 4.56). It would suit better for my application. Another advantage to me is the transfer-case that has a true lock compared to the viscous central diff in the second generation. I already get stuck in the mud with only the front wheels spinning... so I sometimes cross fingers hoping this to not happen again!


So here is my question: does someone here did that tranny/t-case swap in a second generation RAV4? Does the first generation bigger t-case clear 1AZ/2AZ block?


Thanks guys!

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Is ARB a good brand such as OME?
I am considering buying this lift kit from the same chinese company:


Do you think it is worth it or should I go for something else?
I'm not sure but i would start with only spring lift... i just installed the H&R on my 3rd gen for +30mm and they work amazingly well with the Excel-G shocks from KYB, personally, i don't think i need anything more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
Is AER* a good brand such as OME?
I am considering buying this lift kit from the same chinese company:


Do you think it is worth it or should I go for something else?
I don't suggest shocks with adjusting valves if you drive your RAV4 during sub-zero temperatues. Even among high quality and reputables shocks brands, I've seen many valves failure during winter.
 

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Hey guys !
Just got my elocker from AER. I'll be using the garage of a friend to perform the diff swap. I'll also do the clutch while having the car in the air. It has 291'000km with the original clutch, Toyota really is reliable.

Do you think it is worth it to also replace the injectors (they are still the original ones) ? Or is the motor removal too much effort for the benefit ?

What else do you suggest to inspect or change for a long off-road trip in Africa?

All advices are welcome as I am a newbie in mechanics.
 

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Hey guys !
Just got my elocker from AER. I'll be using the garage of a friend to perform the diff swap. I'll also do the clutch while having the car in the air. It has 291'000km with the original clutch, Toyota really is reliable.

Do you think it is worth it to also replace the injectors (they are still the original ones) ? Or is the motor removal too much effort for the benefit ?

What else do you suggest to inspect or change for a long off-road trip in Africa?

All advices are welcome as I am a newbie in mechanics.
Is a diesel or a gasoline? For the injector stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #368 · (Edited)
Hey guys !
Just got my elocker from AER. I'll be using the garage of a friend to perform the diff swap. I'll also do the clutch while having the car in the air. It has 291'000km with the original clutch, Toyota really is reliable.

Do you think it is worth it to also replace the injectors (they are still the original ones) ? Or is the motor removal too much effort for the benefit ?

What else do you suggest to inspect or change for a long off-road trip in Africa?
Super for the e-locker.... keep us informed with your impressions! It would be very interesting if you start your own thread with pictures of your expedition in Africa. :)

Injectors are not an issue with Toyota gasoline engines... so I won't worry with that.

By the shop manual procedure, the engine and trans should be pulled out the RAV4 to do the clutch job. But I confirm you that it is much easier (and less time consuming) to let the engine in the vehicle. It is a little bit tricky to separate and bolt the transmission + t-case assembly from/to the engine. The original clutch kit is very reliable, but the original pressure-plate does not have enough clamping force for some technical off-road. I suggest you to install an aftermarket stage 1 clutch-kit like Exedy.... or get one original replacement kit for a 3S-GTE.

As for prevention maintnance; go for the usual tune-up with new filters, spark-plugs, fresh oil everywhere, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #369 · (Edited)
My RAV4 is far from new (2001), and has almost 300,000 km on the clock. Where I live in Québec, Canada... winter lasts almost 6 months a year... and they salt the roads so much! Doing frequent water crossing and playing into mud without regular washing also contributed to accelerate rust badly. My RAV4 is still driving strong and reliable... but the under carriage is EXTREMELY rotten. I welded and reinforced almost every strategic places over the 2-3 past years. But now I have to accept it can be a security issue soon...

I'm regularly looking for old Land Cruisers and 4Runners... but they are very pricey even in ''acceptable'' condition. With the gas price as high... it's also something to think about it.

I love my RAV4, but it's not rare to see a high mileage RAV4.2 around 5,000$... and still see rust and perfored body panels/under carriage. :(

Last week; we had a new customer at the garage with a low mileage 2002 RAV4. It came on the towing because it's transmission (automatic) is dead. We can't find ANY used automatic transmission in the provincial junk yards. We even bought a JDM transmission, but there is no Vehicle Speed Sensor location on it. So for the moment the RAV4 is laying in the backyard of the shop, waiting for a transmission.

By curiosity; I asked the guy if he was interested to sell his RAV4 without repair... because I would swap my manual transmission in it. So I bought it for 1,000$. It would be a ''lot'' of work to make the manual swap and transfer all my upgrades from my actual RAV4 to this one. But I could not pass over that chance... it is in really good overall condition, and the under carriage is somewhat nickel. I'm expecting to drive it before next spring.

 

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My RAV4 is far from new (2001), and has almost 300,000 km on the clock. Where I live in Québec, Canada... winter lasts almost 6 months a year... and they salt the roads so much! My RAV4 is still driving strong and reliable... but the under carriage is EXTREMELY rotten. I welded and reinforced almost every strategic places over the 2-3 past years. But now I have to accept it can be a security issue soon...

I'm regularly looking for old Land Cruisers and 4Runners... but they are very pricey even in ''acceptable'' condition. With the gas price as high... it's also something to think about it.

I love my RAV4, but it's not rare to see a high mileage RAV4.2 around 5,000$... and still see rust and perfored body panels/under carriage. :(

Last week; we had a new customer at the garage with a low mileage 2002 RAV4. It came on the towing because it's transmission (automatic) is dead. We can't find ANY used automatic transmission in the provincial junk yards. We even bought a JDM transmission, but there is no Vehicle Speed Sensor location on it. So for the moment the RAV4 is laying in the backyard of the shop, waiting for a transmission.

By curiosity; I asked the guy if he was interested to sell his RAV4 without repair... because I would swap my manual transmission in it. So I bought it for 1,000$. It would be a ''lot'' of work to make the manual swap and transfer all my upgrades from my actual RAV4 to this one. But I could not pass over that chance... it is in really good overall condition, and the under carriage is somewhat nickel. I'm expecting to drive it before next spring.
Secretly, i wanted you to move on to the 3rd gen, i want to see all your toughts on the 3rd and mods...

i hope this project goes well fast, is an opportunity to look things from another point of view and fix any issue or bothering you could have with your own build.
 

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My RAV4 is far from new (2001), and has almost 300,000 km on the clock. Where I live in Québec, Canada... winter lasts almost 6 months a year... and they salt the roads so much! My RAV4 is still driving strong and reliable... but the under carriage is EXTREMELY rotten. I welded and reinforced almost every strategic places over the 2-3 past years. But now I have to accept it can be a security issue soon...

I'm regularly looking for old Land Cruisers and 4Runners... but they are very pricey even in ''acceptable'' condition. With the gas price as high... it's also something to think about it.

I love my RAV4, but it's not rare to see a high mileage RAV4.2 around 5,000$... and still see rust and perfored body panels/under carriage. :(

Last week; we had a new customer at the garage with a low mileage 2002 RAV4. It came on the towing because it's transmission (automatic) is dead. We can't find ANY used automatic transmission in the provincial junk yards. We even bought a JDM transmission, but there is no Vehicle Speed Sensor location on it. So for the moment the RAV4 is laying in the backyard of the shop, waiting for a transmission.

By curiosity; I asked the guy if he was interested to sell his RAV4 without repair... because I would swap my manual transmission in it. So I bought it for 1,000$. It would be a ''lot'' of work to make the manual swap and transfer all my upgrades from my actual RAV4 to this one. But I could not pass over that chance... it is in really good overall condition, and the under carriage is somewhat nickel. I'm expecting to drive it before next spring.

Hi Commando, on your actual 4.2 how are the doors and tailgate rustwise? I have a 2002 with high mileage and it could do with at least a tailgate and rear driver door. If you ever want to sell body parts this winter I could be interested


I bought it because the front subframe has been changed already, exhaust is new dans brakes too, suspension seems to be in good shape and it drives good with it's 314 000 km ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #372 ·
Where are you from Guillaume?

My doors are in good condition... but my tailgate looks equivalent to yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #373 ·
Secretly, i wanted you to move on to the 3rd gen, i want to see all your toughts on the 3rd and mods...
Hahaha! It would be an interesting upgrade regarding interior space/room.... especially the trunk storage. But RAV4.3 were never sold in Canada with manual transmission, and I hate automatic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #375 ·
Rimouski, I get it you are from the montreal area? Anyway if the deal is good, everything is manageable ;)
I'm from Chicoutimi, Saguenay. Je parle Français.
 

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Hello!
Commando, do you mind showing me which one of these clutch is stage 2 (stronger than the original)? I have absolutely no idea how to differentiate them...

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #378 ·
Hello!
Commando, do you mind showing me which one of these clutch is stage 2 (stronger than the original)? I have absolutely no idea how to differentiate them...

Thank you!
My suggestion is to use the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit #16803A... if the price and disponibility is OK for you. It's a good reputable brand, and it suits perfectly our RAV4.2. The pressure-plate clamping force is 40% increased over the original, but clutch pedal feel is only slightly higher.

An OEM 3S-GTE clutch kit would also works great. So the Exedy clutch kit #16062 would also be a good compromise and is cheaper than the stage 1.
 

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My suggestion is to use the Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit #16803A... if the price and disponibility is OK for you. It's a good reputable brand, and it suits perfectly our RAV4.2. The pressure-plate clamping force is 40% increased over the original, but clutch pedal feel is only slightly higher.

An OEM 3S-GTE clutch kit would also works great. So the Exedy clutch kit #16062 would also be a good compromise and is cheaper than the stage 1.
do this 3S-GTE clutch fit on the 1AZ-FE as it fits on the 2AZ-FE?
 

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Discussion Starter · #380 ·
do this 3S-GTE clutch fit on the 1AZ-FE as it fits on the 2AZ-FE?
Yes. It also works for almost any Toyota V6 engines. Some brands label their clutch disc as 236mm and other as 240mm. Some says they are all 236mm or 240mm. In fact it does not matter: even if the 1AZ-FE has a 236mm clutch disc, it has plenty room for 4mm more on the flywheel and pressure-plate.

Some adjustment may be needed on the clutch pedal rod (it is adjustable)... but this is already something needed when changing a clutch kit from a different brand.

I would also suggest to install an OEM throw out bearing, because I see so much aftermarket clutch kits sold with a junk TOB that don't last long... or are noisy.
 
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