Week-end Off-Road Warrior
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I started to work for the first time on my ''new'' blue RAV4 today. I removed the 2.0L engine and the broken automatic transmission. I removed the automatic shifter assembly and installed the manual shifter assembly. It was a bolt-on swap, the 4 bolts that hold both shifter assemblies are exactly the same... and at the same location. Everything about the center console is identical... even the plastic bezel around the shifter base is the same part! The rubber boot that drives the shifter cables through the firewall has the same shape and bolt pattern.
I swapped the brake pedals because they are different, and it was also an easy task.
(I made multiple auto to manual conversions on older 80's Toyota Supra, AE86, pick-up, etc. Every holes and bolt's thread for clutch pedal mounting bracket were already on the firewall.)
Sadly; the 2001-2005 RAV4 is not made like this! So the next step tomorrow will be to drill the holes to fit the clutch pedal bracket and clutch master cylinder.
I swapped the brake pedals because they are different, and it was also an easy task.
(I made multiple auto to manual conversions on older 80's Toyota Supra, AE86, pick-up, etc. Every holes and bolt's thread for clutch pedal mounting bracket were already on the firewall.)
Sadly; the 2001-2005 RAV4 is not made like this! So the next step tomorrow will be to drill the holes to fit the clutch pedal bracket and clutch master cylinder.
Hey Coff33,
Could you send the exact spring or a link please? I'm looking to put those a the back and keep the 40mm spacers at the front, because I'm really low when loaded.
But, do I understand correctly that you put 2" lifted springs + 40mm spacers at the back? Thats almost a 4" lift!
Because I'm planing on having only lifted springs at the back and spacers at the front, so a nice 2" overall lift.
Cheers!
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927 Posts
I installed the clutch pedal assembly today.
That part of the bracket could not be bolted to the body, and it was not possible to drill a hole there to put a bolt and nut... so I just did a tack with a welder.
I used the factory paper gasket to make the holes at the right place (yes it is normal the bigger hole is not centered, it's like this from factory). I tried to use a hole-saw to do the center hole, but there was not enough access with the drill. So I used a dremmel.
Then I had to change the brake fluid reservoir. The one with manual transmission has an output to feed the clutch master cylinder.
Finally, I also used the complete factory oil feed line down to the slave cylinder on the transmission.
The clutch neutral switch + brake switch harness plugged directly to the automatic body harness, it's the exact same connector.
That part of the bracket could not be bolted to the body, and it was not possible to drill a hole there to put a bolt and nut... so I just did a tack with a welder.
I used the factory paper gasket to make the holes at the right place (yes it is normal the bigger hole is not centered, it's like this from factory). I tried to use a hole-saw to do the center hole, but there was not enough access with the drill. So I used a dremmel.
Then I had to change the brake fluid reservoir. The one with manual transmission has an output to feed the clutch master cylinder.
Finally, I also used the complete factory oil feed line down to the slave cylinder on the transmission.
The clutch neutral switch + brake switch harness plugged directly to the automatic body harness, it's the exact same connector.
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927 Posts
Today I interchanged the instrument clusters. It's plug-in... same connectors and same pins location. Everything works as it should.
I installed the manual ECU with the manual wiring harness going from the ECU to the engine bay fuse/relay block. This wiring harness feeds the engine and transmission. Every connectors were plug-in to the automatic fuse/relay block and to the automatic dash harness, and every pins are at the same location. The only thing I had to do is to by-pass the park/neutral switch to get the engine cranking with ignition switch.
Two years ago, I bought a very cheap header on ebay. The application was for a 2AZ-FE Scion XB. While installing the 2AZ into my new 2002 RAV4, I decided to test fit the header. It bolts perfectly to the engine, but the exhaust will need a little bit modification to line-up with the header.
I installed the manual ECU with the manual wiring harness going from the ECU to the engine bay fuse/relay block. This wiring harness feeds the engine and transmission. Every connectors were plug-in to the automatic fuse/relay block and to the automatic dash harness, and every pins are at the same location. The only thing I had to do is to by-pass the park/neutral switch to get the engine cranking with ignition switch.
Two years ago, I bought a very cheap header on ebay. The application was for a 2AZ-FE Scion XB. While installing the 2AZ into my new 2002 RAV4, I decided to test fit the header. It bolts perfectly to the engine, but the exhaust will need a little bit modification to line-up with the header.
I have a question concerning the 2.0l diesel version of the rav4.2, with a remapping, some online websites claim that they can achieve 151hp and 363Nm which is huge! Especially when comparing with the 2.0l gasoline: 192Nm at 4000rpm.
The question is, will the diesel version provide more low end torque (what we actually need to climb steep hills or get out of sand when stuck) and what are the possible disadvantages of a diesel motor in comparison with the gasoline?
Because also, the diesel motor provides more miles per gallon and is de facto less expensive per km to run...
What are your thoughts?
The question is, will the diesel version provide more low end torque (what we actually need to climb steep hills or get out of sand when stuck) and what are the possible disadvantages of a diesel motor in comparison with the gasoline?
Because also, the diesel motor provides more miles per gallon and is de facto less expensive per km to run...
What are your thoughts?
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We don't have the Toyota 2.0L diesel in any vehicle in USA/Canada... so I don't know nothing about their reliability and modifications. But working with many Audi/Volks/BMW/Mercedes diesel engines, I know that a tune makes a great difference, mainly because it's easy to change the boost level and cancelling all the anti-pollution parts. Diesel engines are great for torque for sure. There is a guy who posted a few videos on youtube with his diesel RAV4.2. His is stock, but he told me the manual transmission gears ratio with the diesel engine are not the same as the gasoline RAV4. And he told me this kills all the low end torque in first gear while the turbo lag... and that he would prefer the gasoline manual transmission.
EDIT:
I just took a look at the manual transmission diff ratio. They all have the same first gear ratio (3.833), but the final drive is ''very'' different.
- Diesel RAV4.2 manual transmission (E353F). Final drive ratio: 4.23
- Gasoline RAV4.2 manual transmissions (E352F/E359F). Final drive ratio: 4.56
- RAV4.1 manual transmission (E250F). Final drive ratio: 4.93
Now you should understand why I've chosen to install a RAV4.1 transmission. It has the slower E series final drive ratio.... but the cost is less fuel efficiency at highway speed. The RAV4.1 manual transmission also have the SO helpful (off road) center diff lock. But when unlocked, it is less capable than the RAV4.2 viscous center differential.
EDIT:
I just took a look at the manual transmission diff ratio. They all have the same first gear ratio (3.833), but the final drive is ''very'' different.
- Diesel RAV4.2 manual transmission (E353F). Final drive ratio: 4.23
- Gasoline RAV4.2 manual transmissions (E352F/E359F). Final drive ratio: 4.56
- RAV4.1 manual transmission (E250F). Final drive ratio: 4.93
Now you should understand why I've chosen to install a RAV4.1 transmission. It has the slower E series final drive ratio.... but the cost is less fuel efficiency at highway speed. The RAV4.1 manual transmission also have the SO helpful (off road) center diff lock. But when unlocked, it is less capable than the RAV4.2 viscous center differential.
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927 Posts
Today I was installing the Ford Escape rear shocks, as Coff33 did on his RAV4.
If we measure the shocks from center to center when fully extended; the original RAV4 shocks are 25'' long. The Escape shocks are 26'' long.
Then I asked myself how long can I go to get the more suspension travel... until something happens (ex: the axle's tripod fall into the boot).
Remember my RAV4 has OME 1.5'' lifted springs + 40mm spacers, and that it has a sway bars delete... so the result should be different if you don't have the same suspension set-up.
I started with 28'' long (center to center) shocks. When I raised the vehicle, the axles were good to go... BUT the springs fell off the the 40mm spacer's bed doing a big klong sound.
Same thing with 27.5'' long shocks. Finally; it ended with a maximum lenght of 27'' to avoid any problem. I'm still really happy with the result.
If we measure the shocks from center to center when fully extended; the original RAV4 shocks are 25'' long. The Escape shocks are 26'' long.
Then I asked myself how long can I go to get the more suspension travel... until something happens (ex: the axle's tripod fall into the boot).
Remember my RAV4 has OME 1.5'' lifted springs + 40mm spacers, and that it has a sway bars delete... so the result should be different if you don't have the same suspension set-up.
I started with 28'' long (center to center) shocks. When I raised the vehicle, the axles were good to go... BUT the springs fell off the the 40mm spacer's bed doing a big klong sound.
Same thing with 27.5'' long shocks. Finally; it ended with a maximum lenght of 27'' to avoid any problem. I'm still really happy with the result.
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927 Posts
I put the summer tires on it today, and installed the muffler with over axle routing that I had on my black RAV4. At first I wanted to remove the hitch to get better departure angle, but on another side it has more pros than cons... so I think I will let it there.
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117 Posts
will that clutch drop in a 1AZ/FE engine?
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927 Posts
Affirmative. This is exactly what PhoenixII did.
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117 Posts
amazing, i will look at it for my third gen!
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YAY Glad you got the Escape shocks, a good purchase yeah ?Today I was installing the Ford Escape rear shocks, as Coff33 did on his RAV4.
If we measure the shocks from center to center when fully extended; the original RAV4 shocks are 25'' long. The Escape shocks are 26'' long.
Then I asked myself how long can I go to get the more suspension travel... until something happens (ex: the axle's tripod fall into the boot).
Remember my RAV4 has OME 1.5'' lifted springs + 40mm spacers, and that it has a sway bars delete... so the result should be different if you don't have the same suspension set-up.
I started with 28'' long (center to center) shocks. When I raised the vehicle, the axles were good to go... BUT the springs fell off the the 40mm spacer's bed doing a big klong sound.
Ill post again tomorrow with a little mod I did to mine to make them 27" long !
Maybe my springs seat okay due to the remaining swaybar?
The new RAV looks awesome Commando ! well done mate!
I still dont understand how your axles are okay with OME +40mm spacers. My Axle vibration issue was terrible
Maybe i just need to have them rebuilt or replaced?
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927 Posts
@ Coff33; the Escape's shocks are a bit stiffer than the RAV4 ones... but a bit less than the 4Runner's shocks I was using on my black RAV4. The ones for Escape are a perfect upgrade!
Put the black hood with scoop. I still don't know if I will paint it blue later.
I modified my skid-plate by cutting it where the exhaust is. This mod gave me 1.5'' more ground clearance than before.
On another note; I reinforced a part that is very weak from factory on our RAV4.1 and RAV4.2. Here where I live, winter lasts almost 6 months a year.... and they put a ton of salt on the roads! So rust becomes a big problem here on older vehicles. Many RAV4 I see at the junk yard or sold for parts on marketplace, are retired from road because the frame part where the rear diff mount got completely rotten. Then, the differential is hanging with the axles and the vehicle can't be driven. It happened to me with my black RAV4 while I was driving off road. I had to tie the diff with strap benders until I went at the shop to fabricate a new frame. This frame part is not sealed at the top where it joins the floor.. so water gets inside and rust rapidly. This frame part is made with very thin sheet metal. So to avoid another bad adventure, I boxed/welded than frame part to lasts years of abuse off road... and applied a thick coat of rust proofing.
Sorry for the bad quality photo... rust proof on my camera's lens? haha!
Last thing I did today is to install the Torsen type 2 differential.
Put the black hood with scoop. I still don't know if I will paint it blue later.
I modified my skid-plate by cutting it where the exhaust is. This mod gave me 1.5'' more ground clearance than before.
On another note; I reinforced a part that is very weak from factory on our RAV4.1 and RAV4.2. Here where I live, winter lasts almost 6 months a year.... and they put a ton of salt on the roads! So rust becomes a big problem here on older vehicles. Many RAV4 I see at the junk yard or sold for parts on marketplace, are retired from road because the frame part where the rear diff mount got completely rotten. Then, the differential is hanging with the axles and the vehicle can't be driven. It happened to me with my black RAV4 while I was driving off road. I had to tie the diff with strap benders until I went at the shop to fabricate a new frame. This frame part is not sealed at the top where it joins the floor.. so water gets inside and rust rapidly. This frame part is made with very thin sheet metal. So to avoid another bad adventure, I boxed/welded than frame part to lasts years of abuse off road... and applied a thick coat of rust proofing.
Sorry for the bad quality photo... rust proof on my camera's lens? haha!
Last thing I did today is to install the Torsen type 2 differential.
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