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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on getting this 98 back together again after the PO bungled his engine swap.
There is this thing that I don't see anywhere it goes. I looked at my own 98 and can't see it,
but it might be buried under the wiring bundle. I am hoping someone knows what it is and where it goes. It has electrical connector and a round metal can at the end.

I also have a hose that I don't know where it goes, and I'm wondering if this plugs into
the end of the hose...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
It is the camshaft position sensor, this looks like a challenge to put it where it goes..

Well MF! Now it is clear why it wasn't connected, this engine is pre-98 and doesn't have a camshaft position sensor. Now what to do??????

So I had to replace the camshaft pulley and the backing plate behind it with one that has the camshaft position sensor. The pulley has a tab that is missing on the other one, and the backing plate has curve to make room for the sensor. One needs to drill and tap holes to mount the bracket for the sensor. I refused to pull this engine, as it is impossible to drill and tap this while in the car, so I improvised.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So now I have another issue with this hose that goes nowhere. It looks like a water hose and it comes down off some kind of valve below the throttle body. I looked at my 2-door 98 and it connects to the cylinder head in the back on a nipple is all I can see as it is buried back there. This nipple does not exist on the new engine. I'm thinking this 3sfe engine the PO put in was a JPM model. In any case, any idea what this thing below the throttle body is, and where I might connect this hose somewhere else? T into a heater hose??

My searching for rav4 water hose routing did not find anything about this hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I guess I can't get much help here....but for the record, this hose is not a water hose, but a vaccum hose.
I got the engine running and the hose was sucking air. As it is as big as a water hose, it sucks quite a lot.
Just plugged it up for now, but the california smog police are not going to let that go unnoticed.

Even armed with this info, still can't find any diagram showing where or what it is for. Seems like a pvc line, but there
is already one on top of the valve cover.

BTW, the previous owner had the plug wires wrong, so at first it barely ran, and I suspected the new timing belt I installed, but nope, just wrong plug wire order. And the trans cooler line in the radiator was badly cracked and spit out about all the trans fluid. Oh what joy. Can't seem to get to that fitting without removing the radiator??
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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I understand your frustrations. I'm finally wrapping up my project car, hopefully this week. My tranny cooler wasn't leaking, it was one of the hoses that blew out while I was driving 75 mph on I4, by the time I got pulled over in a reasonably safe place, the tranny was toast. I made my own hoses from 6-AN stainless steel braided hose and aluminum fittings for about $90 US from both vs about $350 for both from Toyota with steel fittings and nylon braided hose.

Here is a link for the VSV lines and evap lines - https://goo.gl/photos/Bp8DvVKjuspCG9h19

See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/245377-making-your-own-manual-transaxle-cooling-hoses.html

See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/215738-replacing-manual-transmission-project.html

See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/243105-cooling-system-rebuild.html

See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/244849-air-intake-mods.html

Maybe some of these would help.
 
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Now I don't think this is it, after reading your post more closely, however I'm leaving this here because it may be handy to you in this area.

As you describe it I believe you are talking about the evap VSV that is mounted on the air box. One end of a large diameter vacuum hose goes to the throttle body, the other to the evap VSV and then another line goes from the evap VSV to the evap/charcoal canister. That link I sent you (https://goo.gl/photos/Bp8DvVKjuspCG9h19) shows it, although not very clearly. You will most likely need that hooked up properly to pass emissions.

Throttle body - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaeGU1MkFSdG5yWkk
Note: The black vacuum hose marked 2016 goes to the evap VSV

Evap VSV - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaUVJRLVhwWjR6SUU
Note: The hose on the right goes to the throttle body, the hose on the left to the evap/charcoal canister

Evap/Charcoal Canister - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaMlhvaWJCQTg0QUU
Note: The reason you see a small filter here is because I'm using an aftermarket intake system

Under Hood - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaMWh6aEJzNkp5M2M

If you are running an aftermarket air intake, mount the VSV to the driver's side fender in an open spot.

Sounds like you already have the engine in and the intake manifold on otherwise I would have recommended moving the EGR VSV to the firewall for easy access. See https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaX3RBOTRMYWNnQzg
 
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I think I found the line you are talking about - see the photos.

The nipple in the center of the head (between fuel injector ports 2 and 3) goes to the throttle body (left hose that is green marked in next photo) - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaWlNjX0pRNGRYME0

Close-up of back side of throttle body and egr - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaTUpRVzNtQlhDclE

Back side of engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaSC16RW9BOGlLT0U

I think you'll have to pull the intake manifold to get to it if you have to replace the hose. You don't have to buy the specialized hose, you can use a 3/8" hose, just use the chaff pads on the existing hose to make the bends and protect it from chafing. If you remove the intake manifold, move the EGR VSV while you're in there.
 
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I have lots of photos of my engine and engine compartment as I disassembled it and reassembled everything. Let me know if there is anything you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The nipple in the center of the head (between fuel injector ports 2 and 3) goes to the throttle body (left hose that is green marked in next photo) - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaWlNjX0pRNGRYME0
Thanks very much for posting the pics!

Indeed that is the hose in question, it goes from the throttle body to the nipple. The problem is I have no nipple on the engine in this 98. The question is what is it used for, and do I have to hook it up to something to pass california smog check. EVAP doesn't need to 'work' to pass, but the visual inspection will fail with a plugged up hose, so at least I need to hook it to something so it LOOKS like it is connected...I'm hoping that is all I need to do about it.

I'm pretty convinced the PO bought a Japanese (JDM) 2.0 off ebay,
and the JDM motors are different than US and specifically California engines, because now I have an EGR problem.

I get a code for low EGR flow. I tested the EGR valve, didn't appear to work, but after removing it, it works fine. It gets no exhaust gases as input. What I'm trying to figure out now, is where the EGR exhaust pipe goes from the EGR valve, it is buried. I suspect it attached to the end of the cylinder head, and this cylinder head has no passages for EGR. MF! Another complete hassle to find a solution if this is the case. I probably need to weld a connection to the exhaust manifold and run another pipe to the egr, but done so the visual inspection doesn't fail! MF!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Found this in another thread on this site.
However, I don't know what emissions you have down under, but here there is EGR and associated apparatus and my car has always had the EGR low flow code PO401. I replaced the vsv for EGR which is what brings up the code 90 % of the time and it still didn't fix the problem. So I've driven it with the check engine light and that code on it for 3 years. I didn't really care I had a company truck sitting in my yard and I didn't drive it that much, but now that I'm retired I drive it a lot. It is a great working engine and I look after it, but it has never given me the mileage it should, so now I'm going to play with it and see what I come up with. I've done some testing and though all of my North American Pollution apparatus bolted to this engine, I don't think it mattered at all! When I got my engine there was a block off plate on the intake where the EGR valve bolts on, but there was no plug in the threaded boss at the back of the head where the pipe from the EGR valve screws in. This is the passage that allows the EGR to dump into the exhaust and I'm pretty sure that this goes nowhere in the Japanese head, if it did it would have been blocked off from the factory or there would have been a constant exhaust leak!
I think that is why I have always had code PO401.
 

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Here is a photo of where the EGR valve connects to the block - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaLUl6djVHak8taDQ

I have no idea what the differences are between US and JDM engines are but I know they don't have as stringent pollution rules so it doesn't surprise me.

That hose we discussed before has vacuum on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the picture. I'd say the EGR connects to the nipple with the tape covering it. You can see the screw-in plug where it connects to the exhaust, and then runs across the head into the back. Looks like I'll have to take apart lots of things and get to that part of the head. It would have been much easier with the transmission out, and if I knew this was coming I'd have taken the engine out of the car, which would have made the camshaft sensor install easy compared to what I had to do with it still in the car. Hopefully this helps someone in the future doing a JDM swap.
 

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The nipple with the tape has a hose that goes to the left most nipple facing down on the throttle body. If you look at the throttle body photo it has green markings. The painted engine photo has an arrow going to a hole in the engine, this where the rigid pipe that goes to the bottom of the EGR goes. I'll send more photos with the EGR layout.
 
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View of the lower rear throttle body and EGR valve - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaTUpRVzNtQlhDclE

Photo of EGR system removed from engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8Coac1dpTWtETnhndlk

Another angle of the EGR removed from engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaWHVHY3ppVGo1Q1U

Back of engine with EGR installed - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaSC16RW9BOGlLT0U

Another angle of the back of the engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaaXVnTUVlMkJvcnM

View from top of engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaeG1MVnBXc25KeW8

Another view of EGR from rear of engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaM0hIXy1yYzlCTkE

A differet angle of the right side and rear of engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8Coad0VyZ29DZEdSRFU

EGR VSV off the engine - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaS0FSdm4weVR0UXc

I moved the EGR VSV to the firewall - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaX3RBOTRMYWNnQzg

Hope some of these help, ignore my hairy leg. LOL
 
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Discussion Starter #15
So I took apart the back of engine, and the egr pipe was connected as suspected to the nipple. Removed it, and the passage goes about 3 inches, and it is 6 inches to the plug. Removed the plug and it was blackended inside, so it is going to the exhaust. So looks like I just need to drill 3 inches into the passage and hope it doesn't hit the water jacket in the process, which given my luck so far, may be possible! :(

Another thought was to attach a tube to the plug hole and run it to the egr valve. Didn't look good for that option, so will try the drill first.
 

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I don't think you should drill into an intact engine, the shavings will likely destroy it even if you don't hit anything vital. It looks like someone crossed up everything . My engine is a 1999 3SFE with California emissions. My engine isn't plumbed like yours. Can you post a photo of the throttle body at different angles? Does your throttle body have the port like mine does for that "nipple" is it capped or does it go somewhere else?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I tried drilling the egr passage, but the fuel rail was in the way to get a straight shot, so plan b was I plumbed a 1/4 copper tubing from the pipe fitting back to the egr valve. Covered it with flex conduit for a heat shield, and then a fiberglass sheath from another car, so it looks factory and won't melt the hoses.. And it worked, car now doesn't get any 401 EGR code and EGR smog monitor went ready, so this car can now be taken in to get smogged.

I still need to connect this one hose to something or make it look like it is connected to something..
Gator, the nipple it connects to, does that just pass through the valve cover?
There must be a name or part number for the control it connects to under the throttle body, but I haven't found it searching.
 

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