I'm sure most DIYers know how to change oil by now, but I figure I would take some pictures for those who may be interested in doing so themselves.
Filter element part number: 04152-YZZA1
Filter cap tool: Assenmacher TOY 640
A few people from the TN Highlander forum indicates Matco TOY110A
may have a better fit. Given this is stated for a 4-cylinder, I don't know how it performs since the Assenmacher gave me no issues. The Matco TOY112A
is stated for the 6-/8-cylinder, but again, I have no experience with either Matco products.
Tools needed: 14mm socket for drain plug, 3/8" wrench "square" for filter cap plug, 15/16" socket for filter cap tool, 3/4" OD tube for drain pipe (if needed)
Since my maintenance light started to flash a few days ago, I figure I would finally change the oil after reading about it.
Filter element with o-rings and drain pipe.
3/4" OD clear tube bought from local hardware store.
Clear tube connected to drain pipe.
Filter cap tool, fits like a glove with no movement.
There is enough clearance under the RAV4 to drain the oil out without using ramps, but the ramps do help.
Use a 14mm socket to remove the drain plug, have the catch pan ready.
My drain plug had a metal gasket with it, didn't use the gasket that seller included.
Oil gushing out...and lots of it.
Use a 3/8" wrench to loosen the filter plug (add extension if needed).
If the filter housing starts to turn while loosening the filter plug, place a wrench between the body and housing to keep it stationary.
Push drain pipe (with tube) into hole and excess filter oil will drain out. The small o-ring will also come out when the drain pipe is removed.
Mount the filter cap tool on and use a 15/16" socket to loosen cap. I used a 1/2" ratchet with the socket.
The dirty filter element.
Remove the original large o-ring and dirty filter element.
Inside of filter holder. Wipe it clean as well.
Clean the engine side of where the filter screws into.
New filter element with new large o-ring. Be sure to lubricate the large o-ring. Hand tighten the housing until snug fit. I used a 1/2" torque wrench with the 15/16" socket and cap tool to tighten to 19 ft-lb.
Lubricate the new small o-ring and insert in groove. It's a snug fit, so it shouldn't fall off. Install the filter plug and tighten to 9.5 ft-lb
At this time, if not already done, reinstall the 14mm oil drain plug (w/gasket) and tighten to 30 ft-lb.
Remove the oil fill cap.
Once the oil fill cap is removed, there's a baffle inside, be sure not to damage it if using a funnel when adding oil. See here
There were about 6 quarts that were drained, but I've only added 5.5 quarts since the oil level at the dipstick was about 1/2-way between the 2 points. But check again and add if necessary after driving it.
It took me 1.5-hrs from start to finish, but only because I was taking pictures as well. I waited about 15 minutes for the oil to drain to a slow drip. I would say next time, it would take me only about 30 minutes to do.
One last thing, to reset the "Maintenance" light in the dash from flashing:
- turn ignition to "ON," no need to crank the starter
- push the trip button so "Trip A" is displayed
- turn ignition to "OFF"
- push and hold the trip button and turn ignition to "ON"
- there will be a few dashes that will count down from left to right until all ZEROES
- maintenance light is now reset