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Audio System Build Out - 2011 Base

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
I've not yet figured out how I will secure the sub but I expect something will come to me once I start pulling things out for the install. I have read of issues with the covers and top floor vibrating and again, I've not yet formulated a plan for that but will read some more, mull the options, try what I think will work best for me and post the results.
 
#23 ·
I use Velcro (hook side) straps, I've glued them to the back and bottom of the sub enclosure, the box doesn't budge at all.
 
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#25 ·
Fyi, here in Florida it gets so hot that the adhesive on the back of the strips starts to melt in the summer ( my garage is an office), so I used a staple gun and added some staples as well.
 
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#27 ·
knt102000 said:
Does velcro really work? I'd imagine a 10" subwoofer with box would be quite heavy?
Click to expand...
Yes, I have two 2" wide by 12" long strips on both sides of the back of the box which are stuck to the carpeting on the rear seats, I also have 2 strips of the same size on the bottom.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
I finally got started today. Got the driver's side door speakers removed and the new speaker wire pulled in. I'm not going to use the factory speaker wires. Figured out how to use the factory tweeter mount with my Boston Acoustics tweeter. One interesting development is that the driver's side door mounted controls don't work. I thought I snapped all the connectors in good but must not have. Will fix in the morning.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I used a heat gun to remove the old tweeter and then used a dremel to make the opening large enough to accommodate the new one, I then used some epoxy resin to attach the new tweeter.

I also added some weather stripping around the new tweeter and door speakers to prevent any sound from leaking into the for panels.
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
^ Yep. I pulled the stock tweeter out with a heat gun then used a curved file to widen the opening. I used Gorilla Glue around the inside surface of the opening to fasten the tweeter in. Perfect fit. I cut the spokes out of the middle since my tweeter has a protective arch in front.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Good progress today. Finished the passenger side door, got the 4 gauge amp power line, the RCA cables, the speaker cables and the cables for the outboard Navi and Sirius tuner units pulled.

Here's a pic of the ebay speaker adapter with weather stripping I applied. I applied the same material between the adapter and the speaker frame.



I found an unused grommet about midway between the brake and gas pedals, cut an "X" in it and pulled the power wire through, ran it down the driver's side of the center console / hump and into the hatch area

For the RCA and speaker lines, I ran those up along the passenger side, using the factory wiring clips. For the Sirius and Navi modules, I ran those up the passenger side of the center console / hump.



Setting up the passenger side tweeter went much quicker this time.
First I used a heat gun and some channel locks to pull the driver out of the frame.



Then I snipped out the grille type pieces.



From there, it was just a matter of filing away the plastic so my tweeter would fit in the opening and then gluing in the tweeter.







I used a zip tie on the frame for some stress relief on the wires built into the tweeter. They are pretty thin and I'd worked on them before.



A pic of the outboard modules under the passenger seat. Thought I was going to mount them further back but the supporting cables are not long enough.

 
#33 ·
Ahh is the stock tweeter held on by glue? lol did not know that....can it be easily replaced if u decided to go back to stock when u sell the car?

are the rear seats easily removable? no wires or SRS cables to worry about? it looks like u easily removed it to mount ur outboard modules?
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Yes. Tweeter is glued in. But if you need to modify the opening like I did, the original tweeter won't go back in. I didn't pay much attention to the connections on the back but I expect if everything was the same you could probably put it right back in.

The rear seats have the seat release cable attached in two places, one in the back and one near the middle. I was able to take the clip off and wiggle the cable housing off the bracket in the back but not the middle so I just put the seat up on end and pivoted it so I could access that area.
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Got the navi antenna mounted and ran the cable for it and for the Sirius antenna. Removed the "Aux" female jack in the center console and replaced with a 1/2" MDF plug with a male mini jack that turns into a normal RCA cable for aux input to the head unit. Discovered that the 6 ft cable for the sub-amp remote gain control was too short. Replaced it with a 10 ft Cat5 networking patch cable. Now I just have to remember where I left that aux jack module.

 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Finished all the cable clean up from the center console up into the head unit opening.
Plenty of room behind the ventilation controls module for the Bluetooth unit.





Got the microphone mounted and the cable run back to the unit.

 
#37 ·
It all looks good but why remove the airbag?
 
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Discussion starter · #39 ·
Head unit is installed. Scoshe dash kit works pretty good.



From what I can tell the head unit is recognizing the Bluetooth module, I just need to go through the setup and pair my phone. The navi is taking a long time to pick up a signal. I expect I'll need to move the antenna.

Next up, figure out a secure mounting method for the amp rack and get everything connected then next week finish up with installing the rear door speakers.
 
#40 ·
Eric_In_LB said:
I didn't remove the airbag. I just tucked the microphone cable behind the pillar trim.
Click to expand...
Oops, the center radio location looked like the passenger side airbag location. Now that I see it, I realize it's not even possible to remove that part of dash without removing the whole dash.

Anyways the install looks good.
As for the gps antenna, I have mine mounted on the drivers side of the roof, right next to the windshield and pillar. My signal is always prefect and the HU picks up the satellites very quickly.
 
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