Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

R22376t

· Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm planing on removing the TB to give it a complete cleaning and also cleaning the MAF sensor.

My previous car had spefific stpets for TB cleaning to avoid check engine codes. What's the proper way to remove the TB and clean it? Do you need to do idle relearn steps after you cleaned it?
 
There are many opinions on this, I'll just tell you what I did:

TB cleaning: I took a non-lint creating cloth and I wiped it clean, as-is installed on the surge tank...

MAF cleaning: unless you are using oiled filters, e.g. K&N, I wouldn't clean it, but if you are set on it, there are MAF-specific spray cleaners that I used in the past, CRC was one of them...
 
I'm planing on removing the TB to give it a complete cleaning and also cleaning the MAF sensor.

My previous car had spefific stpets for TB cleaning to avoid check engine codes. What's the proper way to remove the TB and clean it? Do you need to do idle relearn steps after you cleaned it?

You do not need to remove the TB in order to clean it. Just spray throttle body cleaner with the engine off and wipe down with a lint free cloth and that is it.
 
You do not need to remove the TB in order to clean it. Just spray throttle body cleaner with the engine off and wipe down with a lint free cloth and that is it.
But wouldn't that spray just wash the crud down into the engine?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
There are many opinions on this, I'll just tell you what I did:

TB cleaning: I took a non-lint creating cloth and I wiped it clean, as-is installed on the surge tank...

MAF cleaning: unless you are using oiled filters, e.g. K&N, I wouldn't clean it, but if you are set on it, there are MAF-specific spray cleaners that I used in the past, CRC was one of them...
Is it okay to move the TB while it's still connected to get to the back side? Do i need to disconnect the battery and unplug the TB?
 
Is it okay to move the TB while it's still connected to get to the back side? Do i need to disconnect the battery and unplug the TB?

Yes the butterfly in the throttle body must be moved to the open position with something like the back of a screw driver to keep it open while you spray inside. You should not use anything metal to scratch the throttle body. Just be very careful with the butterfly valve which is spring loaded and can close quickly with a bit of force. You can use an old toothbrush to clean the inside. Just make sure you don't drop it in the throttle body. There is no need to disconnect the battery since there is no electrical involved.
 
I always get check engine light ON after TB and MAF cleaning. I disconnect and connect back the battery negative terminal that take care of the check engine light.

I have never gotten a check engine light ever on all the cars I cleaned the TB. I think you can over do it and just don't over spray it too much around the outside or inside.
 
I'm planing on removing the TB to give it a complete cleaning and also cleaning the MAF sensor.

My previous car had spefific stpets for TB cleaning to avoid check engine codes. What's the proper way to remove the TB and clean it? Do you need to do idle relearn steps after you cleaned it?
What kind of issues are you having?
 
Is it okay to move the TB while it's still connected to get to the back side? Do i need to disconnect the battery and unplug the TB?
My procedure to do this: engine off, key out, remove the filter intake box with hose. I use the blue disposable shop towels or microfiber cloth. With one hand I open the butterfly and hold it open, with other I wipe the TB inside and the flap itself. If you have not done so already, I would replace the PCV as well. I'd get it from a dealer, not aftermarket...

But wouldn't that spray just wash the crud down into the engine?
+1 What he said! I am not a proponent of this either. Chances are if there is gunk on the inside of the intake and surge tank, spray may dislodge it. I have done SeaFoam treatment before but would do this only I suspected sticking or buildup on valves...
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I'm planing on removing the TB to give it a complete cleaning and also cleaning the MAF sensor.

My previous car had spefific stpets for TB cleaning to avoid check engine codes. What's the proper way to remove the TB and clean it? Do you need to do idle relearn steps after you cleaned it?
What kind of issues are you having?
The idle is not smooth
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Is it okay to move the TB while it's still connected to get to the back side? Do i need to disconnect the battery and unplug the TB?
My procedure to do this: engine off, key out, remove the filter intake box with hose. I use the blue disposable shop towels or microfiber cloth. With one hand I open the butterfly and hold it open, with other I wipe the TB inside and the flap itself. If you have not done so already, I would replace the PCV as well. I'd get it from a dealer, not aftermarket...

But wouldn't that spray just wash the crud down into the engine?
+1 What he said! I am not a proponent of this either. Chances are if there is gunk on the inside of the intake and surge tank, spray may dislodge it. I have done SeaFoam treatment before but would do this only I suspected sticking or buildup on valves...
Thanks for the info. I'll change the PCV valve as well.
 
The idle is not smooth
I had an issue with idle on my ES, same engine. It would misfire without throwing a code. Looking at the RPM needle during idle, the RPM would dip about 100 revs every time cyl 1 was supposed to ignite. I cleaned the throttle at the time and that lowered the idle by about 100 RPMs overall, but the "hick ups" remained. Ended up being a faulty spark plug, it was a Denso OEM iridium that had 60K on it. With that, when was the last time you replaced plugs? If the cleaning doesn't smooth out the idle, perhaps look at them...
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The idle is not smooth
I had an issue with idle on my ES, same engine. It would misfire without throwing a code. Looking at the RPM needle during idle, the RPM would dip about 100 revs every time cyl 1 was supposed to ignite. I cleaned the throttle at the time and that lowered the idle by about 100 RPMs overall, but the "hick ups" remained. Ended up being a faulty spark plug, it was a Denso OEM iridium that had 60K on it. With that, when was the last time you replaced plugs? If the cleaning doesn't smooth out the idle, perhaps look at them...
Spark plugs is on the list. My idle is not that bad but I figured at 80k cleaning the TB can help
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts