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2009 4-cyl Rav4 0w20 or 5w20?

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#22 ·
Rick's Rav4 said:
^Just please recycle it (for free) at an auto part store such as Advance Auto if you are in the USA.
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You mean, used oil should be recycled? We just dump it on the roads down here in Dixieland to keep dust down...

BTW, what kind of racing are you talking about? I used to frequent Great Lakes Dragway, Road America and other tracks. I've had my hands in a few m/c engines as well as Pontiacs and Corvettes.

Now? Cat 3126 in the MH, the BMW boxer oilhead, the new RAV4, the Perkins diesel in the Massey-Ferguson and the B&S v-twin in the mower.
 
#24 ·
dfinch1938 said:
You mean, used oil should be recycled? We just dump it on the roads down here in Dixieland to keep dust down...

Now? Cat 3126 in the MH, the BMW boxer oilhead, the new RAV4, the Perkins diesel in the Massey-Ferguson and the B&S v-twin in the mower.
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About dumping used oil onto roads, presumably you are referring to dirt and/or gravel roads. Oil can float on top of rainwater runoff and end up in streams as pollution.

Am curious about your use of presumably multigrade oil in your B&S V-twin on your mower. I use straight 30 in our mower with the same engine, as in the past when multigrade oil was called for and used in a neighbor's mower engine the oil consumption rate was horrendous. We switched it to straight 30 and it completely stopped using oil between changes. Our B&S with straight 30 uses zero oil between changes. Does yours use oil between changes?
 
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#26 ·
Hello all,

While I run synthetic for the winters here in MI, would like to remind those that run extended miles that the oil filter can clog up and go into bypass mode (not working at all).

Use a better high mileage filter if running extended miles or change it (my guess would be at about 6,000 miles) to be on the safe side.

FWIW,
Greg
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
@2011rav4 said:
Pennzoil is having a $10 rebate. On a Synthetic oil 5 quart jug. You can get it at Wal-Mart for $22.70 - $10 mail in rebate .

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prom...ons/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-14.html#iframe=L2RpeS9TcHJpbmdNSVIxOS8=
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I got in on this deal last week and changed my oil over the weekend. So far so good!


starkeyg said:
Hello all,

While I run synthetic for the winters here in MI, would like to remind those that run extended miles that the oil filter can clog up and go into bypass mode (not working at all).

Use a better high mileage filter if running extended miles or change it (my guess would be at about 6,000 miles) to be on the safe side.

FWIW,
Greg
Click to expand...
I bought the Toyota Genuine OEM filter kit - is that an OK option running with synthetic on longer mileage? Or is there a particular filter you'd recommend otherwise?
 
#28 ·
Blogson said:
About dumping used oil onto roads, presumably you are referring to dirt and/or gravel roads. Oil can float on top of rainwater runoff and end up in streams as pollution.

Am curious about your use of presumably multigrade oil in your B&S V-twin on your mower. I use straight 30 in our mower with the same engine, as in the past when multigrade oil was called for and used in a neighbor's mower engine the oil consumption rate was horrendous. We switched it to straight 30 and it completely stopped using oil between changes. Our B&S with straight 30 uses zero oil between changes. Does yours use oil between changes?
Click to expand...
Sir, I was being facetious regarding dumping oil. Sadly, however, there is a lot of trash strewn on our rural roads.

As for my 10 year old B&S Intek V twin, I have used 10w-30 synthetic in it from new. I have never had to top up ever. I change annually or when I see the oil change from the new oil light amber color.

The engine starts easily and is on its 2nd battery...the 1st battery was defective.

It starts cold without excessive cranking (usually about 3-4 seconds with full choke) here in the central Alabama winters. Secret to fast starts? Keep the valve lash set to factory specs, service the air cleaner routinely and use a battery charger from time to time.

Spark plugs are OE. The only thing I have had to change are the blades. They get bent from time to time. The mower deck belt has been changed. The drive belt is OE but I have a new one on the shelf.

I'm about ready to put new tires on the front and rear. All but one tire has a plug in it. I have removed and repainted the mower deck. The spindles are still like new.

I believe the engine start lockout switch on the deck is going to need replacement soon.

Also, the incandescent lights on the front hood are very dim due to the low voltage output from the engine's lighting coil and have been from new. I'm going to install LEDs in those housings so I'm seen at night when at or near roadside. First, I've got to determine if the lighting coil produces AC or DC. Any ideas in this regard?
 
#29 ·
jplee3 said:
I got in on this deal last week and changed my oil over the weekend. So far so good!




I bought the Toyota Genuine OEM filter kit - is that an OK option running with synthetic on longer mileage? Or is there a particular filter you'd recommend otherwise?
Click to expand...
My opinion, the Toyota 4 cylinder engine in my RAV4 appears to run very clean. My oil is not discolored meaning little soot or combustion by-products are reaching the crankcase. Keeping the PCV circuit and the air cleaner serviced will help. The only way to tell for sure is a UOA with a particle count and distribution. Also, the silicon number will tell if the air filter is doing its job.

Again my opinion; If your engine is in normal condition with quality oil and air filters properly installed (make sure your air filter is properly seated in the housing) and you do not drive in extreme conditions, I would not be concerned about the OE oil filter bypassing during extended OCIs of say 10K miles.

Repeating; The only accurate way to tell if extended OCIs are exceeding your filters capacity is a UOA. Blackstone Labs will let you know if your filter performance is within specification.
 
#30 ·
dfinch1938 said:
Sir, I was being facetious regarding dumping oil. Sadly, however, there is a lot of trash strewn on our rural roads.

As for my 10 year old B&S Intek V twin, I have used 10w-30 synthetic in it from new. I have never had to top up ever. I change annually or when I see the oil change from the new oil light amber color.

The engine starts easily and is on its 2nd battery...the 1st battery was defective.

It starts cold without excessive cranking (usually about 3-4 seconds with full choke) here in the central Alabama winters. Secret to fast starts? Keep the valve lash set to factory specs, service the air cleaner routinely and use a battery charger from time to time.

Spark plugs are OE. The only thing I have had to change are the blades. They get bent from time to time. The mower deck belt has been changed. The drive belt is OE but I have a new one on the shelf.

I'm about ready to put new tires on the front and rear. All but one tire has a plug in it. I have removed and repainted the mower deck. The spindles are still like new.

I believe the engine start lockout switch on the deck is going to need replacement soon.

Also, the incandescent lights on the front hood are very dim due to the low voltage output from the engine's lighting coil and have been from new. I'm going to install LEDs in those housings so I'm seen at night when at or near roadside. First, I've got to determine if the lighting coil produces AC or DC. Any ideas in this regard?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. About dumping used engine oil onto roads I have known people who do that but it has been on dirt roads. Interesting that your B&S twin gets on well using multigrade oil without needing to top up between changes. The OEM battery (allegedly Sears Die Hard) on ours lasted only for about two years. It was replaced with a Walmart Everstart battery dated 07/06 which miraculously is still going strong. I do maintenance per the Sears maintenance manual, which typically for Sears at the time is amazingly detailed, even with complete teardown diagrams and parts numbers. I don't know about the lighting coil but strongly suspect that it and everything else electrical is DC. One can find out by using a multimeter in a light socket or on the wiring connector to the socket.
Happy mowing!
 
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#32 ·
It will be a dirty DC. Don't run LED lights off of them without a bridge rectifier. I've measured voltage spikes up to 40 on some small engines and that will sure kill the LEDs. Run the LEDs off the battery with a fuse and switch. I dont think a diode will be necessary. Good luck.
 
#33 ·
Guilateen02 said:
It will be a dirty DC. Don't run LED lights off of them without a bridge rectifier. I've measured voltage spikes up to 40 on some small engines and that will sure kill the LEDs. Run the LEDs off the battery with a fuse and switch. I dont think a diode will be necessary. Good luck.
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Did you post this comment in the wrong thread?
 
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#34 ·
I use mobile 1 and change it one or twice a year, which averages out to ~15-20k miles. No problems. The rav has 275,000 miles, the buick has almost 280,000, and my truck has been rolled past 100k who knows how many times. Our olds had 200+k on it and still ran like new with 200 psi on every cylinder.

I like synthetic oil because it is more temp stable and it lubes well. It may get mast the rings easier, depending on your engine, but that’s fine with me. I just top it off once in a while.
 
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#36 ·
Ike Carlson said:
I use mobile 1 and change it one or twice a year, which averages out to ~15-20k miles. No problems. The rav has 275,000 miles, the buick has almost 280,000, and my truck has been rolled past 100k who knows how many times. Our olds had 200+k on it and still ran like new with 200 psi on every cylinder.

I like synthetic oil because it is more temp stable and it lubes well. It may get mast the rings easier, depending on your engine, but that’s fine with me. I just top it off once in a while.
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Synthetics also typically have better TBNs, better NOACKs and are more shear stabile.
 
#37 ·
Yep. I have worked on many vehicles, and the ones that were using synthetic oils were in great health. The ones running dino oil were running rough, bad idle, low power, leaks, etc...

No comparison between the two. Synthetic wins every time.
 
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#38 ·
Ike Carlson said:
Yep. I have worked on many vehicles, and the ones that were using synthetic oils were in great health. The ones running dino oil were running rough, bad idle, low power, leaks, etc...

No comparison between the two. Synthetic wins every time.
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Not sure of your point. Are you saying that ALL cars running dino oil run rough, have a bad idle, low power and leaks? Or just yours?
 
#39 ·
ravenuer said:
Not sure of your point. Are you saying that ALL cars running dino oil run rough, have a bad idle, low power and leaks? Or just yours?
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When I lived on L.I. (Sea Cliff), nobody had cars. It was during WWII when no cars were built, gasoline was rationed, tires were unavailable, sugar and tobacco were in short supply as well.

NY was a great place back then. Now? Not so much.
 
#40 ·
ravenuer said:
Not sure of your point. Are you saying that ALL cars running dino oil run rough, have a bad idle, low power and leaks? Or just yours?
Click to expand...

I am saying that, of the cars I have worked on, the ones in the worst condition were usually running cheap dino oil. This is something I have observed locally in my area. I see the same thing with chainsaws (I work on those too) the beaters are usually running used motor oil instead of high quality bar oil. I'm not saying that every car that runs cheap oil is going to have problems, just that they do around here. That could be in part because of -50 winters and 100+ summers, I don't know. It could be that they are being cheap and don't really care about their cars. I just know what I have seen.
 
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