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nelsoneulalio

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I've tried to find the solution on Google but not sure how to fix it. I bought a Rav4 2004 (2nd gen) 5 doors, and it has come already with this issue:

When I use the Fob I can lock and unlock all doors but the driver door. When I use the key directly on driver door lock, I can lock/unlock the driver door and also all the others. If I use the key on the passenger side door to lock/unlock the doors it works with all door but the driver door.

Would you know what is faulty? How could I fix this issue?

Thank you for any advise.

Kind regards
Nelson
 
Your problem is the common door lock actuator failing. Aftermarket door lock actuator are inexpensive ($10 and up). The Toyota factory part is around $250.
If you do a search in the forum there is a thread showing how to replace this part. For the Gen2 the door arm position is very picky and you may need to bend this to make it work properly. I had no luck getting mine to work. I got the mechanic to do it but 3 months later it stopped working because the door lock arm position went out of wack.

It will be challenging to get it working unlike the Gen3 door lock actuator which is more plug and play.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hi mate, thanks your reply! Just a quick question, when you've said that the part is picky, did you mean just the generic part or both, the generic and the Toyota genuine part, and therefore it would mean that is a skilled service for a mechanic professional...?
 
Hi mate, thanks your reply! Just a quick question, when you've said that the part is picky, did you mean just the generic part or both, the generic and the Toyota genuine part, and therefore it would mean that is a skilled service for a mechanic professional...?
There is a rod that connects to the actuator and the door lock which is sensitive to the correct positioning. It has nothing to do with the door lock actuator itself so buying a OEM Toyota part or aftermarket part is not going to change anything. Yes you do need skill first of all taking that darn rod off and then putting it back. So even if you put the lock arm back it has to be in the proper position because of the angle it is opening the actuator. Just bending the door arm rod just a tiny bid will cause it to work or not work properly. I fiddle with bending this arm for a few hours and gave up. I was lucky I did not screw up so it did not function at all in any position. You can try your luck or take it to a mechanic. But like me even if it works it may stop working later on like mine.
 
Not sure what arm everyone is bending. You don’t need to bend any arms at all if you removed the assembly correctly...

The only finicky, or “picky,” arm would be the vertical arm (arm that attaches to door latch and actuator).

Cost: Toyota Factory Actuator is about $120ish on Amazon Prime. Aftermarket is cheaper. I purchased the OEM Toyota simply due to the fact that it lasted so long, so why change it with a aftermarket.

Steps: Raise window to fully closed position.
1) Remove door panel
2) Remove a bolts and screws that actuator assembly attaches to door frame(10mm bolts and philips-head screws.
3) Remove rubber window guide(one bolt)
4) Unlatch plastic tabs on door lock arms(two latches)
5) Remove the three star-bit bolts that attaches the door latch.
6) Remove the plastic or rubber grommet that is directly above door latch.
7) use long Flat-head screw driver to insert into the hole where grommet was and push/tap the vertical door latch arm out of the plastic latch. (THIS WAS THE MOST FINICKY PART OF TJE WHOLE PROCESS)
8) Unplug wire harness to actuator.
9) Unbolt the interior handle from door frame and carefully remove actuator assembly and door handle assembly together. (Comes our one way so make note of removal)
10) Remove black plastic housing from actuator assembly.
11) Carefully Remove door handle lines and make note of how they are placed/installed on door actuator.
12) Remove and install new actuator.
13) Installation is the reverse.
14) Make note that the black plastic tab on the housing from the door handle lines goes on the outside of the door frame.

No bending arms, no ruining parts.
Replaced mine last month.
 
Not sure what arm everyone is bending. You don’t need to bend any arms at all if you removed the assembly correctly...

The only finicky, or “picky,” arm would be the vertical arm (arm that attaches to door latch and actuator).

Cost: Toyota Factory Actuator is about $120ish on Amazon Prime. Aftermarket is cheaper. I purchased the OEM Toyota simply due to the fact that it lasted so long, so why change it with a aftermarket.

Steps: Raise window to fully closed position.
1) Remove door panel
2) Remove a bolts and screws that actuator assembly attaches to door frame(10mm bolts and philips-head screws.
3) Remove rubber window guide(one bolt)
4) Unlatch plastic tabs on door lock arms(two latches)
5) Remove the three star-bit bolts that attaches the door latch.
6) Remove the plastic or rubber grommet that is directly above door latch.
7) use long Flat-head screw driver to insert into the hole where grommet was and push/tap the vertical door latch arm out of the plastic latch. (THIS WAS THE MOST FINICKY PART OF TJE WHOLE PROCESS)
8) Unplug wire harness to actuator.
9) Unbolt the interior handle from door frame and carefully remove actuator assembly and door handle assembly together. (Comes our one way so make note of removal)
10) Remove black plastic housing from actuator assembly.
11) Carefully Remove door handle lines and make note of how they are placed/installed on door actuator.
12) Remove and install new actuator.
13) Installation is the reverse.
14) Make note that the black plastic tab on the housing from the door handle lines goes on the outside of the door frame.

No bending arms, no ruining parts.
Replaced mine last month.

You got yours to work but not everyone will be lucky. If there is a problem after putting back everything then the arm has to be adjusted in order to get the door lock working.
 
You got yours to work but not everyone will be lucky. If there is a problem after putting back everything then the arm has to be adjusted in order to get the door lock working.
Not really luck but rather attention to details during disassembly and reassembly. Have removed the old actuator 3 times over the years and each time it’s worked for a bit before it finally bought it.

I’d imagine the reassembly of the gear mechs on the actuator housing may be the issue and reason to bend anything. If misaligned even by a bit would probably throw off the arm travel.
 
yes, have had 3 failed door actuators, and repaired same myself..didnt have any issue with bending any rod. instead the major time theif was setting the spring loaded gear inside the actuator!
 
There is a rod that connects to the actuator and the door lock which is sensitive to the correct positioning. It has nothing to do with the door lock actuator itself so buying a OEM Toyota part or aftermarket part is not going to change anything. Yes you do need skill first of all taking that darn rod off and then putting it back. So even if you put the lock arm back it has to be in the proper position because of the angle it is opening the actuator. Just bending the door arm rod just a tiny bid will cause it to work or not work properly. I fiddle with bending this arm for a few hours and gave up. I was lucky I did not screw up so it did not function at all in any position. You can try your luck or take it to a mechanic. But like me even if it works it may stop working later on like mine.
 
This is the EXACT problem I’m having. Just tried replacing the actuator with cheapo Ebay. But after reassembly not only did the driver door not work but the other doors via main control or fob as well. I noticed it had to do with the position of the actuator that connects to the rod going into the pink clip. If it’s not at the right position the actuator doesn’t know if it’s locked or unlocked and throws off the whole damn system. I have no way of knowing how to fix this.
 
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