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I am saying that, of the cars I have worked on, the ones in the worst condition were usually running cheap dino oil. This is something I have observed locally in my area. I see the same thing with chainsaws (I work on those too) the beaters are usually running used motor oil instead of high quality bar oil. I'm not saying that every car that runs cheap oil is going to have problems, just that they do around here. That could be in part because of -50 winters and 100+ summers, I don't know. It could be that they are being cheap and don't really care about their cars. I just know what I have seen.
Ok, I'm seeing your point a little better. First of all, I've owned a lot of vehicles in my 72 years and none of them ever ran poorly etc, because of poor quality fluids, parts or maintenance. I've never used synthetic fluids, only good quality name brand stuff.
It makes sense that someone using poor quality fluids because they're cheap, will also stretch out the maintenance intervals(if ever), causing more problems.
 
Sorry to keep this thread open, but the question remains. 5W-20 or 0W-20?

I understand that synthetic is better but 5W-20 can be fully synthetic as well.

(Look up Castrol Magnatec 5W-20)
 
Whichever's least expensive!
 
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The only reason for using 0W-20 vs 5W-20 is if you live in a climate that is always at or near 0 deg. F. I live in Alabama where the summer driving temperatures are usually at or near 90 deg. F. Cold engine starting is of no concern in those temperatures. BTW, I use Supertech brand 5W-20 oil, a full synthetic (Wal-Mart brand) available at less than $20.00 for a 5 quart jug. A new oil filter is less than $10.00. This make an engine oil change ~$30.00. Do not poo-poo the Wal-mart Supertech brand products. They are high quality as evidenced by UOA analysis as well as VOAs. Want more information, visit the BITOG website. Nothing wrong with Mobil1. It is excellent oil. I use Mobil1 in my air cooled lawn mower engine as well as my BMW motorcycle engine, also air cooled.

Both oils will serve you well. The main reason for using Mobil1 might be slightly better protection against sludge and varnish formation. Follow good oil change interval practices and you'll never have those kinds of deposits in your Toyota 4 cylinder engine. By using synthetic engine oil for the life of you car, you'll be able to extend OCIs well past the factory recommended interval. Synthetic oils hold up longer because their base oil stocks are tougher and stay in grade longer. Remember, heat and shear are the destroyers of engine oil. Synthetics resist heat and shear much better than non-synthetics. Also, synthetics have more robust additive packages. Just use synthetic and a quality filter and you'll never have any lubrication related engine issues.
 
What is printed on the oil filler cap???
 
Sorry to keep this thread open, but the question remains. 5W-20 or 0W-20?

I understand that synthetic is better but 5W-20 can be fully synthetic as well.

(Look up Castrol Magnatec 5W-20)
Pick either one with confidence, your engine will not know the difference. If both are synthetic the advantage to 0WXX would only be realized in extreme well below 0Âş F temperatures.
 
Yep. I have been running 5w20 and we had temps of -50 F here this winter. The rav started right up without complaint. My truck on the other hand started much harder, being an inline 6 and using 15w40.
 
Yep. I have been running 5w20 and we had temps of -50 F here this winter. The rav started right up without complaint. My truck on the other hand started much harder, being an inline 6 and using 15w40.
You truck is diesel powered? Cummins? If starting a diesel in those temperatures, I would go to lower vis engine oil.
 
It's gas, not diesel. It hauls a lot of weight, so I normally run a bit heavier oil in it. The truck weighs ~12-13k when loaded.
 
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15W-40 HDEO oil for heavy service gasoline engines...good choice. I run 15w-40 in my tractor engine as well as my 4 cycle weedeater. I happen to prefer Delvac 1300 15w-40 non synthetic oil. I use it in my Caterpillar powered motorhome as well....25,000 lbs. typical travelling weight.
 
Hey all,


I may do an oil change for our 2009 Rav4 soon and was wondering what you'd all recommend as far as deciding between 0w20 and 5w20. I hear 0w20 is generally better for cold winters as well as mileage. Is the gas mileage difference substantial between 0 and 5 though? Also, I've read that 0w20 should be good for 10k miles versus the standard 5k with 5w20. Is that still true for the Rav4?

I'm located in Southern CA. My mechanic has been using 5w20 FWIW. He's out of town for a couple weeks and I've changed oil before but it's been a while on the Rav4 (I probably used 5w20 back then too). So I guess I'm just more curious about the potential benefits of 0w20 and if there's any reason I should give it a shot.


Also, is there a certain brand(s) that fares well with this model year Rav4? And synthetic or no?

TIA!
I use AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 here in hot Central Florida! I recommend you to switch,its 1005 Real Synthetic Oil.
 
I use AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 here in hot Central Florida! I recommend you to switch,its 1005 Real Synthetic Oil.
In Cali, I would use a 5w-20 synthetic and change at 10K intervals. Using a heavier oil might knock your engine emissions test out of spec. Any name brand synthetic oil is fine. I like the Walmart Supertech brand of synthetic oil. It rates well in UOAs and is priced lower than most other name brands.
 
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