Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Before attempting any transmission fluid work (or allowing someone else to do it)
see this excellent video:
 
I finally did my first 'transmission' fluid change on my 2017 Hybrid Limited with over 260K on it. You can read about my high mileage adventure with my RAV4 on another thread.

I noticed a fluid leak while doing an oil change and I determined that the fluid was from the front 'transmission' so I decided to change the fluid quick. I searched the internet for videos on how to do the fluid change but nothing directly references the fourth generation RAV4 Hybrid although the videos in this thread did help. I'm here to tell you what I did and the one problem I ran into.

Tools I Used:

3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket
Multi Use Transfer Pump from Harbor Freight
Long Handled 1/2 in Ratchet
1//2 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
1/4 in socket Ratchet
1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
Cheater Pipe
4 Jack Stands
Jack
Large drain pan
6 quarts of Toyota WS fluid (Amazon has it in a 6 pack for about $50)

Like the above videos say you need to jack the car up off the ground on all four corners and make it level. The higher you can get it the easier the job will be. The front 'transmission' fluid is easy to change. There are two 10 mm plugs on the passenger side of the vehicle that face towards the passenger tire. One is down low on the transmission and the other is up high to the left of the lower plug. There is a downward facing 10 mm plug that is used to change the coolant in the power transfer case. Don't remove this plug. Using the long handled ratchet, the 1/2 in to 3/8 inch adapter, the large drain pan, and the 3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket remove the two 10 mm plugs starting with the high one first. If you remove the lower one first all the fluid will drain out and if you cannot remove the upper one you won't be able to refill the transmission. Remove the lower plug and drain all the fluid into a large drain pan. Four quarts should come out. In my case I was short a quart due to the leak. Put the lower plug back in and make sure the washer is still on the plug. Using the Harbor Freight Multi Use Transfer pump fill the transmission with 4 quarts of Toyota WS using the upper hole as the fill hole. Once fluid starts to spill out of the hole stop pumping as the transmission is full. Put the upper plug back in making sure the washer is still attached. Do not over-tighten the plugs as they seem easy to strip.

The rear transmission is a little harder to change. There are two plugs facing the drivers side of the vehicle. I lower plug which is easy to remove and the other plug which is up and to the left in a very difficult area to get a large or medium ratchet. Make sure you are able to remove the upper plug first as you will not be able to refill the transmission if you can't. There is a second fill plug on the top of the transmission but you would have to remove the transmission from the car to reach it. Have fun with that! There is a large, metal cross-member that gives you plenty of room to get a large or medium ratchet into the area but no room to turn it. Also, the transmission housing itself gives you no room to turn the ratchet. I tried lots of different tools to get this plug out and only one combination worked. I tried using a long handled 10 mm HEX wrench (no room to turn it). Also a ratchet with a wiggler and an extension (bad torque angle). A 3/8 in ratchet (no room to turn). Plus lots of cursing and swearing. In order to remove it I used a small, 1/4 in socket ratchet, 1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter, the 10 mm HEX socket, and a cheater pipe.This combination allows the 10 mm HEX socket to fit all the way in to the 10 mm plug and the ratchet to be in a position where it can be turned and not obstructed by the transmission housing. My 1/4 ratchet has a short handle so I needed a cheater pipe to get the necessary torque to loosen the plug. Just like on the front transmission you need to remove the lower plug to drain the transmission. Almost 2 quarts will come out. Replace the lower plug and you are ready to put 2 quarts back into the transmission using the upper plug hole and your Multi Use Hand Pump. Using your super-secret ratchet-adapter-10mm socket combination put the upper plug back in it's hole and tighten it down. Check for leaks and you are ready to drop the car off the jacks and go.
 
The fluid was mostly brown, not black, and had a slight tint of red. In my opinion the original fluid would have been good for 300K+ which for most people is the lifetime of the vehicle. I don't pull trailers or heavy items nor do I drive in areas with large hills. Now that I know how to drain and fill the transmissions I will change the fluid every 100 to 150K.
 
Thanks for your write up. I do not tow and the terrain around here is flat so I will wait for at least 175K miles if the vehicle survives that long.
Toyota hybrids are amazing. No belts to change, brakes last forever, no transmission maintenance, long life coolant and 125K mile spark plugs. The original hoses on my 2006 Scion were supple until the day I sold the car at 155K miles in 2019 in hot Florida!. All that's needed now are 10K oil changes and 30K air and cabin filter changes. I am going with a K & N on the cabin filter.

The fluid was mostly brown, not black, and had a slight tint of red. In my opinion the original fluid would have been good for 300K+ which for most people is the lifetime of the vehicle. I don't pull trailers or heavy items nor do I drive in areas with large hills. Now that I know how to drain and fill the transmissions I will change the fluid every 100 to 150K.
 
I finally did my first 'transmission' fluid change on my 2017 Hybrid Limited with over 260K on it. You can read about my high mileage adventure with my RAV4 on another thread.

I noticed a fluid leak while doing an oil change and I determined that the fluid was from the front 'transmission' so I decided to change the fluid quick. I searched the internet for videos on how to do the fluid change but nothing directly references the fourth generation RAV4 Hybrid although the videos in this thread did help. I'm here to tell you what I did and the one problem I ran into.

Tools I Used:

3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket
Multi Use Transfer Pump from Harbor Freight
Long Handled 1/2 in Ratchet
1//2 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
1/4 in socket Ratchet
1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
Cheater Pipe
4 Jack Stands
Jack
Large drain pan
6 quarts of Toyota WS fluid (Amazon has it in a 6 pack for about $50)

Like the above videos say you need to jack the car up off the ground on all four corners and make it level. The higher you can get it the easier the job will be. The front 'transmission' fluid is easy to change. There are two 10 mm plugs on the passenger side of the vehicle that face towards the passenger tire. One is down low on the transmission and the other is up high to the left of the lower plug. There is a downward facing 10 mm plug that is used to change the coolant in the power transfer case. Don't remove this plug. Using the long handled ratchet, the 1/2 in to 3/8 inch adapter, the large drain pan, and the 3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket remove the two 10 mm plugs starting with the high one first. If you remove the lower one first all the fluid will drain out and if you cannot remove the upper one you won't be able to refill the transmission. Remove the lower plug and drain all the fluid into a large drain pan. Four quarts should come out. In my case I was short a quart due to the leak. Put the lower plug back in and make sure the washer is still on the plug. Using the Harbor Freight Multi Use Transfer pump fill the transmission with 4 quarts of Toyota WS using the upper hole as the fill hole. Once fluid starts to spill out of the hole stop pumping as the transmission is full. Put the upper plug back in making sure the washer is still attached. Do not over-tighten the plugs as they seem easy to strip.

The rear transmission is a little harder to change. There are two plugs facing the drivers side of the vehicle. I lower plug which is easy to remove and the other plug which is up and to the left in a very difficult area to get a large or medium ratchet. Make sure you are able to remove the upper plug first as you will not be able to refill the transmission if you can't. There is a second fill plug on the top of the transmission but you would have to remove the transmission from the car to reach it. Have fun with that! There is a large, metal cross-member that gives you plenty of room to get a large or medium ratchet into the area but no room to turn it. Also, the transmission housing itself gives you no room to turn the ratchet. I tried lots of different tools to get this plug out and only one combination worked. I tried using a long handled 10 mm HEX wrench (no room to turn it). Also a ratchet with a wiggler and an extension (bad torque angle). A 3/8 in ratchet (no room to turn). Plus lots of cursing and swearing. In order to remove it I used a small, 1/4 in socket ratchet, 1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter, the 10 mm HEX socket, and a cheater pipe.This combination allows the 10 mm HEX socket to fit all the way in to the 10 mm plug and the ratchet to be in a position where it can be turned and not obstructed by the transmission housing. My 1/4 ratchet has a short handle so I needed a cheater pipe to get the necessary torque to loosen the plug. Just like on the front transmission you need to remove the lower plug to drain the transmission. Almost 2 quarts will come out. Replace the lower plug and you are ready to put 2 quarts back into the transmission using the upper plug hole and your Multi Use Hand Pump. Using your super-secret ratchet-adapter-10mm socket combination put the upper plug back in it's hole and tighten it down. Check for leaks and you are ready to drop the car off the jacks and go.
Thanks for this write-up. Useful information for my 2017 hybrid xle when it reaches 100,000 miles.
 
A few questions. Will you be changing the fluid in the rear motor? Do you tow anything?



Just replaced my hybrid transmission fluid after 6 years / 120k . The old fluid was slightly darker but not by much. I will not be doing another change until at least 300k.

View attachment 158366
 
My dealer states that my low mileage Prius has rusted rotors as well. Any idea how to stop this from happening?


2. On my ES300h I have to replace brakes every 30k or so. The rotors just rust from not being used much.
[/QUOTE]
I just looked what state you live in and saw Florida. Correct? I am suspicious of your dealer now if that is an issue. I live in PA where my vehicles are subject to the winter road salt. I am going onto 40000 miles no problem. Plus I haven’t heard from other hybrid owners that this is a problem. Is this an inspection issue? I would ask an independent garage for an second opinion before you replace them.
 
JM, I have attached the procedure for the 2019 Rav4 Hybrid rear motor fluid change. Does it look like Toyota has corrected the issue on the filler plug?

I finally did my first 'transmission' fluid change on my 2017 Hybrid Limited with over 260K on it. You can read about my high mileage adventure with my RAV4 on another thread.

I noticed a fluid leak while doing an oil change and I determined that the fluid was from the front 'transmission' so I decided to change the fluid quick. I searched the internet for videos on how to do the fluid change but nothing directly references the fourth generation RAV4 Hybrid although the videos in this thread did help. I'm here to tell you what I did and the one problem I ran into.

Tools I Used:

3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket
Multi Use Transfer Pump from Harbor Freight
Long Handled 1/2 in Ratchet
1//2 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
1/4 in socket Ratchet
1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter
Cheater Pipe
4 Jack Stands
Jack
Large drain pan
6 quarts of Toyota WS fluid (Amazon has it in a 6 pack for about $50)

Like the above videos say you need to jack the car up off the ground on all four corners and make it level. The higher you can get it the easier the job will be. The front 'transmission' fluid is easy to change. There are two 10 mm plugs on the passenger side of the vehicle that face towards the passenger tire. One is down low on the transmission and the other is up high to the left of the lower plug. There is a downward facing 10 mm plug that is used to change the coolant in the power transfer case. Don't remove this plug. Using the long handled ratchet, the 1/2 in to 3/8 inch adapter, the large drain pan, and the 3/8 in socket 10 mm HEX socket remove the two 10 mm plugs starting with the high one first. If you remove the lower one first all the fluid will drain out and if you cannot remove the upper one you won't be able to refill the transmission. Remove the lower plug and drain all the fluid into a large drain pan. Four quarts should come out. In my case I was short a quart due to the leak. Put the lower plug back in and make sure the washer is still on the plug. Using the Harbor Freight Multi Use Transfer pump fill the transmission with 4 quarts of Toyota WS using the upper hole as the fill hole. Once fluid starts to spill out of the hole stop pumping as the transmission is full. Put the upper plug back in making sure the washer is still attached. Do not over-tighten the plugs as they seem easy to strip.

The rear transmission is a little harder to change. There are two plugs facing the drivers side of the vehicle. I lower plug which is easy to remove and the other plug which is up and to the left in a very difficult area to get a large or medium ratchet. Make sure you are able to remove the upper plug first as you will not be able to refill the transmission if you can't. There is a second fill plug on the top of the transmission but you would have to remove the transmission from the car to reach it. Have fun with that! There is a large, metal cross-member that gives you plenty of room to get a large or medium ratchet into the area but no room to turn it. Also, the transmission housing itself gives you no room to turn the ratchet. I tried lots of different tools to get this plug out and only one combination worked. I tried using a long handled 10 mm HEX wrench (no room to turn it). Also a ratchet with a wiggler and an extension (bad torque angle). A 3/8 in ratchet (no room to turn). Plus lots of cursing and swearing. In order to remove it I used a small, 1/4 in socket ratchet, 1/4 in socket to 3/8 in socket adapter, the 10 mm HEX socket, and a cheater pipe.This combination allows the 10 mm HEX socket to fit all the way in to the 10 mm plug and the ratchet to be in a position where it can be turned and not obstructed by the transmission housing. My 1/4 ratchet has a short handle so I needed a cheater pipe to get the necessary torque to loosen the plug. Just like on the front transmission you need to remove the lower plug to drain the transmission. Almost 2 quarts will come out. Replace the lower plug and you are ready to put 2 quarts back into the transmission using the upper plug hole and your Multi Use Hand Pump. Using your super-secret ratchet-adapter-10mm socket combination put the upper plug back in it's hole and tighten it down. Check for leaks and you are ready to drop the car off the jacks and go.
 

Attachments

21 - 37 of 37 Posts