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When choosing sway bars I picked the Cusco Front 30mm H/Rear 25mm S bars for a couple reasons. 1. They are a company I trust. 2. The weight of the 4WD V6 RAV4 fits within the weight bracket of a 60 series Harrier so they are matched perfectly between the two. And 3. They have many many years behind them in racing. They know what they are doing. Sooner or later I'll put em on along with the rest of the suspension bits.
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When you increase the sway bar stiffness, you are actually unloading the "inside of turn" wheels, placing more weight on the outside ones.
Eventually inside wheel will lose grip... faster than is expected by the stock "Active Torque Control" and "Vehicle Stability Control" software in YOUR car and it might react unexpectedly.
In extreme cases of stiffness versus car weight (especially when unbalanced front-rear), the inside wheel can even lift off the pavement.

The advice against changing suspension It's actually written (in not so many words) in the Owner Manual:
Replacing tires
Make sure that all tires are of the same size, brand, tread pattern and total load capacity. In addition, make sure that the tires are inflated to the appropriate tire pressure level.
The ABS and VSC systems will not function correctly if different tires are fitted on the vehicle.

■Handling of tires and suspension
Using tires with any kind of problem or modifying the suspension will affect the driving assist systems, and may cause the system to malfunction.
Actually Megan Racing doesn't provide for RAV4 an upgrade that big. They go from stock 25mm only to 28mm. They have avail 32mm for NX, but not for RAV4... they might know a thing or two about modding suspension. Maybe an email before second-guessing their decision would help.

Personally I have contacted Bilstein and KYB to ask whey they don't provide Monotube shocks (they provide only Twin tubes, like the OE shocks) for our RAV4 and they gave me the same answer "not compatible".

That's all.

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
When you increase the sway bar stiffness, you are actually unloading the "inside of turn" wheels, placing more weight on the outside ones.
Eventually inside wheel will lose grip... faster than is expected by the stock "Active Torque Control" and "Vehicle Stability Control" software in YOUR car and it might react unexpectedly.
In extreme cases of stiffness versus car weight (especially when unbalanced front-rear), the inside wheel can even lift off the pavement.

The advice against changing suspension It's actually written (in not so many words) in the Owner Manual:

Actually Megan Racing doesn't provide for RAV4 an upgrade that big. They go from stock 25mm only to 28mm. They have avail 32mm for NX, but not for RAV4... they might know a thing or two about modding suspension. Maybe an email before second-guessing their decision would help.

Personally I have contacted Bilstein and KYB to ask whey they don't provide Monotube shocks (they provide only Twin tubes, like the OE shocks) for our RAV4 and they gave me the same answer "not compatible".

That's all.
I suppose I'm not the type of guy to wait around and wait for a company to see a need and create a product or modify what products are available. I like to push the envelope, thinking outside the box. Luckily now my Rav4 handles way better than before and debatably better than what MeganRacing designed products for the Rav4 can provide. If I lived "by the book" I'd still be stock with only mild upgrades.
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
Completely understand everyone has their own opinion and ways of doing research.

In our research, we checked the weight difference of a 2012 rav4 in full trim weighs nearly 3700lbs and a Lexus NX and 60series Toyota Harrier weighs nearly the same and from the same new MC platform. I didn't see an issue with putting a front sway bar designed for the NX and a rear sway bar designed for the Harrier on the 3rd Gen Rav4. Even the press release from CUSCO shows they tested their rear solid bar on a Harrier that weighed 3725.812lbs.

Upon upgrading both, handling greatly improved as well. Mentioned before your welcome to come for a test ride for comparison after you've had the experience of only doing your own tests.
 

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So, Monday I finally had my install day.

The Cusco sway bars are in. The Bilstein B6's are in and the Modellista Lowering springs are in.
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I just wanted to give a shout out to TEKSMRT and thank him for all the hard work he did to track down these anti-sway bars/stabilizer bars. I have been looking for some time for this information and finally got the funds together to swap out the front anti-sway bar. All I got to say is: WHAT A DIFFERENCE! It has completed transformed my RAV4 and I'm thrilled with the change. I greatly appreciate your help with this. I have a few follow up questions and comments (sorry I didn't read all the following posts, so I might be repeating some information):

1. The project was a 2/3 stars in difficulty, 3 being the hardest. I actually thought it was easy but I've been working on cars a while now. Look on youtube on how to replace the lower control arms. That will give an idea of the work involved.
2. If you're going to replace the front stabilizer bar then have to remove at least one of the lower control arms. So, you might as well replace the lower control arms at the same time (at the age our vehicles are, most likely they need to be replaced anyway due to dried and cracked bushings).
3. These are adjustable anti-sway bars. There are two holes for mounting your end links. If you want a stiffer ride, choose the hole furthest from the end of the bar.
4. The ride quality is great. Its a smooth ride just like OEM but with a little more stiffness when you hit a bump with one tire and not both tires. I think its a perfect sporty ride.
5. In the corner with the new bar, my RAV is a rocket! It just sticks to the ground. At high speeds, it drives through sweeping turns effortlessly and with very little swaying/leaning. Lots of stability at high speeds.

And I have a few follow-up questions for you guys:
1. When taking a right turn at slow speeds there is more loss of traction by the right inside tire due to the stiffer front sway bar. From what I read online this is normal for front wheel drive cars/SUVs (yes, I have a FWD instead of a AWD). I thought maybe adding a stiffer rear sway bar might help with this. Any suggestions or anyone with experience with this?
2. How the heck did you figure out which vehicles use the same anti-sway bars? Very curious.

I've been reading the forum for some time but this is first post. I hope it helps those interested in doing this project. Thanks again everyone for the help!
 
1st set of points.
2. Superpro sells poly bushings that fit our front lower control arms.
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3. Actually its the other way around for adjustable sway bars. The farthest hole is soft and closer is hard.

Question points
1. Its usually a good idea to change sway bars as a matched pair. Hence why I chose the Cusco bars for the 60 series Harrier.

2. I just went off previous experience with using parts from other Toyota's for my projects. Tek and myself figured other cars on the New MC Platform would use the same suspension.

The closest are the 60 series Harrier seen here with Cusco parts.
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Since your FWD like the Harrier test vehicle, you can also use that cross brace where the diff would go on the 4WD RAV'S. Part number is 978 492 RM

Also, I confirmed the Axle braces pictured work for us.
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Sweet! Thanks for the help. I'll check out the Cusco bits. So did you see a major difference between front only and both stabilizer bars or did you mount them at the same time?

Please don't take this as a criticism, its not intended that way BUT to clarify please check out this website: How To Adjust an Anti-Roll Bar aka Swaybar | FluxAuto (its not a scam website as google says) It says the following:

"You probably noticed in the picture above that the anti-roll bar has multiple positions to mount the end-link. These positions change how much leverage the suspension force has on the torsion spring in the center of the anti-roll bar. If you bolt the end-link to the end of the arm (position furthest away from the center section of the anti-roll bar), that gives the suspension the longest lever which allows it to generate more torque (green arrows in the Torsion Diagram above) on the torsion spring in the center of the anti-roll bar. This twists the center section more (larger Angle Θ) and will allow for more body roll. Bolt the end link to the position closest to the center section of the anti-roll bar and you will minimize the amount of leverage the suspension has on the torsion spring and therefore minimize body roll. In the picture above, I have the anti-roll bar set to the second softest setting. I had it in the second stiffest setting before, which is pictured below."

I don't know if this is a definitive or authoritative website on adjusting anti-sway bar, BUT it makes sense to me. Check it out. I mounted on the outside (closest to the end of the bar first) and found it softer than mounting on the inside (furthest from the end). Hope that helps! :)
 
I mounted them at the same time.

According to whiteline.
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Alta Performance
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I have Hotchkis adjustable sway bars on my IS300. Which I have set to soft, farthest setting.

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Well, I've been having a difficult time locating any of the verified rear sway bars stateside. I found one about 3 weeks ago then it disappeared. Other compaines were out of stock. They have 3 in Japan and Australia but $120-150 shipping and returning the sway bar are a little sketchy. Any recommendations?

BTW, Teksmart, I'm in the Dallas area if you want to meet up sometime. I would love to check out your ride.
 
Discussion starter · #56 · (Edited)
Well, I've been having a difficult time locating any of the verified rear sway bars stateside. I found one about 3 weeks ago then it disappeared. Other compaines were out of stock. They have 3 in Japan and Australia but $120-150 shipping and returning the sway bar are a little sketchy. Any recommendations?
RSB are still available for from RHDJAPAN.


If I remember correctly, @84hachi and I both bought ours on sale for around $275 from RHDJapan so anything under or around $300 isn't bad at all.
 
Nice! Yeah I agree $300 is good. I just wanted a reliable supplier in case I have to return or whatever. Thanks. I’ll probably be using these guys.


2010 RAV4 V6 Base lightly modified
Wait until Jan 15-17th to get the TAS discount on RHDJapan
 
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The code should be TAS2021, or something along those lines.

While you wait consider buying other Cusco items that fit our cars since you'll be under there anyway.
 
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