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Cmcfab

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I’m looking into purchasing my first RAV4 and I’m researching which year to focus my efforts on.

I prefer to stick with the later 4.1 or 4.2 do to less computerization. I’m very mechanically inclined so I’m not to worried about general maintenance.
I’m looking to build a light Overland/Adventure Csmping setup for fire roads and BLM areas.

I know there’s a difference in the center diff lock between the 4.1 and 4.2.
I was hoping to find the 2.4 engine AWD but I’m not sure about the performance on the viscous diff lock.

Does the 4.2 Diff Lock perform well?
Is swapping later 4.1 Diff Lock into a 4.2 a common swap amongst Rav Owners?
 
Hi Cmcfab. I just answered your question in the RAV4.1 section:

I had a RAV4.1 and a 4.2. that I both loved. They are built on the same platform and shares very similar suspension geometry. I personally prefer the second gen.... it seems like everything is a bit improved, the perfect evolution!

The RAV4.1 automatic transaxle has a limited slip differential that is controlled by a computer via electronic solenoid and oil pressure. It works fine.

The RAV4.1 manual transaxle has an open center diff that is a bit disapointing when on slippery surface like mud, snow or ice. BUT it has a secret weapon: the so much handy center diff locker!!! By pushing this simple button, the RAV4 becomes a little beast off-road... mostly if your RAV is equipped with a Torsen rear differential. :)

Both automatic and manual transaxles on the RAV4.2 uses the same viscous limited slip center differential. It is very efficient for everyday use and in most situation. But off road I experienced some situations where the center diff lock was missing me! This is exactly why I swapped a RAV4.1 transmission and t-case into my 4.2.

Don't worry about the 2.4L... it is an excellent engine. Toyota put this engine into a bunch of vehicles that are all best-sellers. Only a very few of them had the stripped head bolts/head gasket failure. The 2.4L into the RAV4.3 has a TSB about oil consumption.... but this does not affect reliability. I'm a mechanic, and among all the 2AZ I've seen at work over the years, absolutely none had reliability issue. I removed the good running 2.0L off my 2001 to install a 2.4 and I love it. Even if on paper the HP/TQ numbers are not much higher, in real life the difference is very appreciable.

Some RAV4.2 (2001-2003) with the automatic transaxle had shifting problems due to a defective computer... the 2004-2005 did not.

So; if possible do a road test with both generations. Then just choose the RAV4 you prefer... or the one that seems to be the better bang for the buck. And don't forget that the rear Torsen differential is an option for both generations. An aftermarket electric locker is also available for the rear diff.
 
You can take a look at my build thread for more info:

 
I’m looking to build a light Overland/Adventure Csmping setup for fire roads and BLM areas.
This is exactly what I do with mine. We covered about 100 miles a month this summer on OHV trails in Idaho. In almost 300 miles driven off-road, the only motorized vehicles we came across were; 1x 4Runner, 1x stuck F-150, 1x FJ Cruiser, and a myriad of UTVs , motorcycles, and horseback riders. At Bald Mountain Lookout in the Boise National Forest, a woman riding in a UTV exclaimed, "Look honey, a Subaru! How'd they get up here?" I told them it was a RAV4 but I don't think they believed me :LOL:

I enjoy driving the RAV4.2 so much I sold my off-road built Tundra and bought a second RAV4.2. Actually, I initially bought a V8 4Runner but ended up sending it back to the dealer (long, sad story). But I find the 4.2 very capable off-road. I would consider Commando's build (as well as similar others) supremely capable, probably more so than I need for my multi-use daily driver. I will anecdotally disagree with Commando about one feature of the limited slip center differential ;) I have actually seen my RAV lift a front wheel over an obstacle and continue to deliver power to the rear . . . but I'm willing to admit maybe there were other unseen factors involved.

My biggest complaint is the 3.08 transfer case gearing of the U140F automatic transmission. When I installed a Torsen differential, I had immediate concerns it was exceeding the friction coefficient of the center differential, causing it to slip under normal use. I actually uninstalled it, retested, and reinstalled a second time . . . it was a pain in the a##. I later would have another driver operate my RAV on an obstacle while I observed from outside. Turns out the 2.4L has no reserve torque remaining when the RAV is digging itself out with three wheels. The 5-speed manual transmission negates this problem with 50% greater gear reduction in the transfer case.

You'll notice no RAV4 of any generation comes with a two-speed transfer case. Let me give you a word of advice: The 5-speed transmission IS your low-range transfer case option in the Toyota RAV4 line. It is very advantageous off-road.
 
An explanation of the tests I performed went as follows:

I dug four holes into a sandy hillside and drove my RAV into them, burying the wheels to the axles, and stopped. I tried D, 2, and L to get out and drive up the hillside. No-can-do with the open rear differential. The wheels would spin until the VSC kicked in and I had to reverse out of the holes every time.

With the Torsen differential my RAV was able to climb out of the holes and continue to the top of the sandy hillside . . . but it took nearly full-throttle to accomplish this. The Torsen did exactly what it's supposed to do and control wheel spin, preventing the activation of VSC altogether. But the 2.4L acts like I'm pulling a 6,000 lbs trailer, and anything less than 3/4 throttle wouldn't produce momentum.

These tests were performed on the same hillside, same holes, same vehicle weights a total of four times with repeatable results. They were meant to stress the drivetrain to performance failure, which is exactly what happened for the original equipment.

In practical off-roading adventures this summer I only had two "oh-crap" moments where I was caught off guard by this. I have since adopted the drive style of using 2 and L only, the U140F responds too slowly to power demand to use D.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
All this great info is getting me excited!!! 🙏🏼

Commando, I’ll definitely check out your build and thank you for the response on the previous post.
Is there a tag or visual distinction to look for on the Torsen Diff?

05 Rav, thanks for the input.
Southern California is filled with high $ overlanders. Mainly Tacoma’s and Tundras. I feel that many are so over priced and over built that Hardly ever see the dirt.
I used to build and race Baja trucks and desert cars so I’m familiar and capable to fabricate pretty much anything that has to do with off-road. I used to take my 2wd Ranger with Detroit Locker pretty much everywhere in the desert which amazed most average 4x guys.
A lot has to do with driving capability and good suspension tuning.

One of the tricks I’d give to my 4wheeling friends when they’d get stuck in a bind with only 1 wheel in the air spinning is to use the old Parking Brake trick. To their amazement, they’d usually crawl right out.
I’m wondering if the same trick works with the independent suspension on the Rav as well.
Basically, when I’m a bind and the only tire spinning is the one in the air or mud, pul parking brake about halfway and it adds tension to both rear tires which transfer torque to the tire which is stuck rather then the one in the air.
 
One of the tricks I’d give to my 4wheeling friends when they’d get stuck in a bind with only 1 wheel in the air spinning is to use the old Parking Brake trick. To their amazement, they’d usually crawl right out.
I’m wondering if the same trick works with the independent suspension on the Rav as well.
Basically, when I’m a bind and the only tire spinning is the one in the air or mud, pul parking brake about halfway and it adds tension to both rear tires which transfer torque to the tire which is stuck rather then the one in the air.
I also did this trick a few times with good results. As for the rear torsen, the only way to know is to remove the diff cover. Maybe it's possible to look inside the diff through the drain plug... but I've never tried myself.
 
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Southern California is filled with high $ overlanders. Mainly Tacoma’s and Tundras. I feel that many are so over priced and over built that Hardly ever see the dirt.
There's a lot of that in Idaho. I call them Mall Crawlers. As soon as the pavement ends, all the TRD Pros and jacked up 4x4s are nowhere to be seen. I think the popularity of UTVs has greatly diminished the desire to wheel expensive trucks these days.

I was passed one weekend on the highway by a late model diesel pulling a trailer full of UTVs. We went overlanding that weekend and met some UTVs at Deadwood Lookout. They were wearing helmets, sweating, covered in dust. The dad exclaims that he remembers passing our RAV on the highway the day prior. We nodded. Got back in our comfortable, climate controlled RAV, and continued to wheel. I have a hunch the man's wife had some words with him afterwards in regards to their 4x4 of choice.
 
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