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Alignment on Primes

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#21 ·
Chazz8 said:
Same rear coil spring in R4Prime as many other Toyota vehicles. (Checked the part). It seems to work in lighter and heavier Toyota vehicles.
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Upon further review R4Prime & R4Hybrids get one rear coil part number and gassers (w/o hybrid) get 3 part numbers based on where it was built? I think I origionallly saw R4P on the gasser list, but when I selected each vehicle I got this for the Rav4 Adventure;


And this different part number for R4Prime (fits R4Hybrids too)

Click on image to enlarge.
 
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#22 ·
Thanks for the research. Correct me if I am wrong: the Adventure is a gas model and basically is the same as a gas TRD but with different trim--right? That is why the Toyota of Ft.Worth shows the same spring for them. The Toyota of Ft.Worth showing the $97.57 price spring says THAT coil is for the RAV4 AWD, hybrid and Prime. Am I misinterpreting or misreading this? So that confirms what I said. The Prime weighs 1000 lbs MORE but uses the SAME spring as the gas model.
 
#23 ·
Both vehicle rear coil searches were at Toyota Ft.Worth.

The one for $97.57 was specifically for the 2021 Rav4 Prime and has a different (highlighted) part number than the rear coil spring part numbers for the gassers in the other picture/vehicle search.

So DIFFERENT springs as the gas model.

Could you restate you theory regarding (tip of the iceberg) neg camber issues for R4Primes. There doesn’t seem to be much of the original argument left.
 
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#24 ·
Chazz8 said:
Both vehicle rear coil searches were at Toyota Ft.Worth.

The one for $97.57 was specifically for the 2021 Rav4 Prime and has a different (highlighted) part number than the rear coil spring part numbers for the gassers in the other picture/vehicle search.

So DIFFERENT springs as the gas model.

Could you restate you theory regarding (tip of the iceberg) neg camber issues for R4Primes. There doesn’t seem to be much of the original argument left.
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No, I don't think so. The description of the $97.57 spring seems to me to say that it is for BOTH the gas and hybrid RAVs and also the Prime. Look at the placement of the semi-colons. Also it says: "Fits RAV4, RAV4 Prime". I interpret this to mean its the SAME spring.
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#25 ·
OK Rav4 Prime same as Hybrid spring (300lb difference). I though you big point was to compare to gassers.

Are there any neg camber issues reported by Rav4 Hybrid forums?
 
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#26 ·
Chazz8 said:
OK Rav4 Prime same as Hybrid spring (300lb difference). I though you big point was to compare to gassers.

Are there any neg camber issues reported by Rav4 Hybrid forums?
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No, it's the same spring for gas models too as I read it. Semi colons demarcate each model. "Rav4;" means all rav4s. "AWD;" means all AWD models. Also the description "Fits rav4, rav4 prime" means it fits either all rav4s or also the prime. No where does it say it is not the gas model spring. I vaguely recall a hybrid owner having rear camber issues. Bear in mind before you get too hot or angry about this: I AM ONLY TRYING TO HELP PEOPLE. I speculated and suggested a THEORY based on my mechanical knowledge as to why some Primes may have negative camber issues. I am not insulting Primes. My theory is only that -pure speculation -I am not invested in it and I do not insist that this is what is happening with the negative camber.
 
#27 ·
Chazz8 said:
OK Rav4 Prime same as Hybrid spring (300lb difference). I though you big point was to compare to gassers.

Are there any neg camber issues reported by Rav4 Hybrid forums?
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Check out the three page thread in the hybrid section about negative rear camber that can't be adjusted out destroying rear tires. This supports my theory as the hybrids weigh more than the gassers and as you admit have the same rear springs.
 
#28 ·
ratimux said:
I normally dont even think about alignment issues on a brand new car with less than 4,000 miles on it...
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Me neither. But two things prompted me to do so on this car with barley 100 miles on the ODO.

1) Reading various messages about premature wear blaming alignment
2) I felt like my steering wheel was further off center than it should be. Maybe a couple degrees to the left, even with non-crowned roads. As in the picture.

Took it to the alignment shop for a reading, which came back with some minor errors. They were all reduced to hit the green zones, and that did the trick. The steering is now dead ahead straight.

I'll be watching the tires for wear and will go back to the same shop as needed to see if the alignments are drifting.

 
#29 ·
Drexlex said:
Me neither. But two things prompted me to do so on this car with barley 100 miles on the ODO.

1) Reading various messages about premature wear blaming alignment
2) I felt like my steering wheel was further off center than it should be. Maybe a couple degrees to the left, even with non-crowned roads. As in the picture.

Took it to the alignment shop for a reading, which came back with some minor errors. They were all reduced to hit the green zones, and that did the trick. The steering is now dead ahead straight.

I'll be watching the tires for wear and will go back to the same shop as needed to see if the alignments are drifting.
View attachment 196751

View attachment 196752
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My steering wheel is slightly off center towards the right. It's very slight but when I went in for my first 5K mile tire rotation they said the wear was uneven so I'm thinking my alignment is out a bit. When I take it in for the 10K mile service I'll have them do an alignment under the 12K mile alignment warranty.
 
#30 ·
SDGTR said:
My steering wheel is slightly off center towards the right
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The dealer is required to do a steering zero point calibration as part of the pre-delivery service (see T-SB-0056-20. I suspect that most dealers don't.

A steering zero point calibration should also be done if the battery is disconnected (see T-TT-0616-20).

If the zero point calibration is properly done, the steering wheel should not be offset.
 
#31 ·
FKHeath said:
The dealer is required to do a steering zero point calibration as part of the pre-delivery service (see T-SB-0056-20. I suspect that most dealers don't.

A steering zero point calibration should also be done if the battery is disconnected (see T-TT-0616-20).

If the zero point calibration is properly done, the steering wheel should not be offset.
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Is a steering zero point calibration part of an alignment or is it a separate thing?
 
#34 ·
FKHeath said:
The dealer is required to do a steering zero point calibration as part of the pre-delivery service (see T-SB-0056-20. I suspect that most dealers don't.

A steering zero point calibration should also be done if the battery is disconnected (see T-TT-0616-20).
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I read the TSB, and you are correct. Here's the information:
"Memorize Steering Angle Neutral Point
As a result of the removal of the DC cut fuse, the power source to the steering angle sensor is cut off. When the DC cut fuse is reinstalled, the parking assist monitor system/panoramic view monitor system will be operative, but it cannot display guidelines to assist parking operation because the center position recognized by the steering angle sensor may not be in an initial position. Therefore, perform steering angle neutral point initialization AFTER installing the DC cut fuse during PDS. "

If the zero point calibration is properly done, the steering wheel should not be offset.
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I do not think the steering angle sensor calibration has anything to do with the mechanical alignment between the steering wheel and the steering system (e.g., tie rods) of the front wheels. It just sets the reference point for the parking system so it knows exactly where the wheels are pointed.
 
#35 ·
Drexlex said:
I do not think the steering angle sensor calibration has anything to do with the mechanical alignment between the steering wheel and the steering system (e.g., tie rods) of the front wheels. It just sets the reference point for the parking system so it knows exactly where the wheels are pointed.
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Actually, the zero point calibration is very important for the stability control system. If the car is in a skid, the computer must know where the driver wants to go (steering wheel position), verses where the car is actually going (data input from the attitude control sensors: yaw rate, etc.) Only with the correct information, can the computer take steps to mitigate the skid.
 
#37 ·
Templeton said:
Not sure I figured it out from this thread:

Does the rav4 prime indeed have exactly the same coil springs as the rav4 hybrid and/or the rav4 ICE models ?
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No. The Prime weighs 1000 lbs more than the hybrid due to the larger battery. The Prime also has bigger brakes due to the added battery weight.

The SE and XSE also have to have different springs/shocks because Toyota says it has a sportier suspension.
 
#39 ·
#40 ·
FKHeath said:
The weight can vary by year and by trim level. According to my '21 sales brochure, the LE ICE weighs 3370 and the XSE Prime weighs 4300, a 930 lb difference. I rounded that up and said 1000 lbs.
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In your earlier post you said "The Prime weighs 1000 lbs more than the hybrid due to the larger battery. " LE ICE is not a hybrid, is it?

Even within a given year the weight is shown as a range. Something like dual front power seats can add weight, and wheel/tire sizes. I just showed the lowest number in each case in an attempt to focus on drive train differences.
 
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