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Nice progress! The part number for that metal plate is 48687-0R010, mine were beat up too and I had to reuse them as well, no issues so far down the line. My Highlander and RX350 don't have these metal plates.

I would get someone to put a hand on the strut tower and see if it's coming from the strut. If so, there's a chance the mount may be rubbing if the strut wasn't installed in the exact position of stock (On a Highlander it's possible to put the mount clocked the wrong way, not sure if the RAVs are the same in that regard). Another source of noise I had was from my front control arm. The holes were rusted so I thought they were fully torqued down, but they just a bit loose. I undid the bolt and cleaned the hardware, re-torqued and all was well. This one happened off the line and when I turned in reverse.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Thank you!
Doing the rear DIF fluid right now.
I was looking at the front passenger strut this morning.
I jacked up the control arm with the tire off of it and got the spring compressed. When I removed the pressure from below is where I can see the thud. It’s like the spring tightens and then gets stuck for a second while it’s decompressing. Checked the top studs/nuts and torqued them to 37ft lb. So they should be good.
I’ll have to try this again and look further into it. Possibly I will try and tighten the strut bolts that connect to the spindle.
 
Maybe by chance the NX's bearing in the strut mount may be faulty? Does it feel crunchy when the strut pivots in the mount?
 
The NX complete strut assemblies I got had the metal gaskets (non-too-rusted-looking) that were still intact, not in the best condition, but didn't flake off.
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OEM springs typically will have paint marks on them to indicate they need to point out, however, it's rather hard not to place them properly since the perch and rubber isolators in the strut already has indentation for the spring to sit in. You can see them here from my swap.

There isn't really a big strut assembly difference between the later 4.3 and NX designs. NX's bearing and isolator is constructed as one-piece whereas the 4.3 are separate. There shouldn't any mount orientation when installed in the strut tower. The only part that is non-resusable is the strut lock nut.
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The NX complete strut assemblies I got had the metal gaskets (non-too-rusted-looking) that were still intact, not in the best condition, but didn't flake off.
View attachment 211043

OEM springs typically will have paint marks on them to indicate they need to point out, however, it's rather hard not to place them properly since the perch and rubber isolators in the strut already has indentation for the spring to sit in. You can see them here from my swap.

There isn't really a big strut assembly difference between the later 4.3 and NX designs. NX's bearing and isolator is constructed as one-piece whereas the 4.3 are separate. There shouldn't any mount orientation when installed in the strut tower. The only part that is non-resusable is the strut lock nut.
View attachment 211045
According to this diagram the NX and and 4.3 Rav springs have the same part number. I was under the impression that the NX springs were stiffer. Does anyone know for sure if they are different?
 
They share the same part code, but have a different part number. I am certain the NX springs are different, they are far stiffer than even the 13-18 RAV4 springs.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
According to this diagram the NX and and 4.3 Rav springs have the same part number. I was under the impression that the NX springs were stiffer. Does anyone know for sure if they are different?
I just put the strut/spring assemblies in the front of my 2010 and I can confirm that the NX300 f-sport assemblies raised the front end of the vehicle up a bit. It is noticeable. I cannot give you specific numbers on how they differ just my real life experience..
 
According to this diagram the NX and and 4.3 Rav springs have the same part number. I was under the impression that the NX springs were stiffer. Does anyone know for sure if they are different?
The entire part number consists of 10 alphanumeric characters with each 5 set separated by a hyphen. However, the first 5 part number indicates WHAT kind of part it is across ALL Toyota & Lexus models, i.e., 48131 or 48132 indicates coil spring, then the last 5 part number is the distinction. In the case of the RAV4 & NX, the coil spring is the same for both sides, so there's only one part number identified. They are definitely different.
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Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
Happy holidays my friends.. thanksgiving update for you guys while your (hopefully) relaxing..
I’m scheduled to work tomorrow and Forsure will be there early to rake in that 💰
Be well and enjoy your time whatever your doing..

Need to buy:
CV axle (F pass.)
Front wheel bearings

To do:
NSK bearings (Rears)
Knuckle bushings (rears)
CV axle carriage bearing (F passenger)
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The other day I did front and rear tie rods, rear shock absorbers, trailing arms & changed rear Dif fluid. After which I went to my local shop and had an alignment done.
Tie rods made a big difference.
Unfortunately I still have the thunk every time I Accelerate/reverse and apply the brakes firmly. Shop was kind of baffled too..
I have diagnosed the turning thunk tho! Because it has now progressed into the clicks so I am fairly certain replacing the CV will take care of all the noises I’m hearing. 🤞🏼
When I replaced my transmission I removed the carriage bearing brackets dowel pins because I knew I was going to replace it and fyi if you are going to replace your passenger CV axle your most likely going to have to drop the awd unit meaning your going to have to pull the trans/motor mount pins and drop it. Them dowel pins give no wiggle room!
Remembering that I removed the 2 pins on this bracket there is a chance the bracket is moving slightly and causing that thunk when braking at low speeds.. I’ll check it out and update on that. I really think it’s going to be just the CV but this seems very logical to me considering where I am hearing the clunk. You’ll know when I know!

ONE MORE THING!: had my wheels balanced while I was at the shop. I’ve had a vibration from 45-65mph. I’ve thought it was the wheels out of balance for the longest cause I put on slightly wider blizzaks than the 18s originally had on them. Bought the Rav with the Pirelli scorpion verdes. Miss them damned tires!
when I left the shop long behold that damned vibration is still there! S.O.B. 🤬


Considering front wheel bearing options. Yoko or Timken? Is it worth the timken price?
Axle I’m just going to pick up from my local O’reillys and rebuild the OEM.

I don’t really think I have an issue with those lightly used strut assemblies anymore. Which is super relieving! I’ll attach a video I took the other day just for your guys’ input.

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Discussion starter · #51 ·
According to this diagram the NX and and 4.3 Rav springs have the same part number. I was under the impression that the NX springs were stiffer. Does anyone know for sure if they are different?
Nose dive when breaking has went away also. Rav looks level to me now.. before you could see the front end was lower than the ass end.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
I did my struts and mounts before a month and they were exactly like yours, stiff enough. I also don't know if it's normal or not.
After finished all the work, my steering wheel feels very stiff on turns.

Let us know how yours is going.
Thanks for the input. I think that they are supposed to be stiff. Haven’t found any YouTube videos explaining the mount in detail like I’m looking for so I’ve just brought it up to a couple ppl. I’ll update with more info as it comes in & after I finish the remaining work I have to do. I’m now looking to do my drive axle/propeller as well so I should have the noises all figured out soon enough..
 
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