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transfer case - how does it work

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frankxyz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 and inadvertanly drained about 4 ounces of tranfer case fluid out. So its very low or close to out right now.
Does the transfer case only work when the car is in 4 wheel drive, or is it always working?
Wasnt sure if i could push this job off till next week, or should i take care of it right now.
 
#3 ·
I think you lost about a quarter of the oil. I think you could do some easy driving for a while.

I think the transfer case is always driving the front part of the drive shaft.

The transfer case/transmission assembly is shown in this: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...giGIAA&cad=rja

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...tem/030000.pdf has diagrams including one that I would call a mechanical schematic diagram.

Capacities are shown in http://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4 Repair Manual/GF1A Transfer/Transfer Oil/03000310.pdf
 
#6 ·
arries289 said:
Keep in mind that the transfer case oil should be changed every 60K anyway.
Click to expand...
With our RAV in my garage awaiting ignition coils at 96K guess it's a good time for some fluid changes - and the rear wiper reversal - and the backup light mod ....
 
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#7 ·
arries289 said:
I would top it up. It's an expensive piece and while 4oz shouldn't be a problem, why risk it? Keep in mind that the transfer case oil should be changed every 60K anyway.
Click to expand...
My 2009 Scheduled Maintenance Guide does not show a scheduled change for the transfer case. It shows to inspect every 15000 miles (as it does for the brake lines and several other things). I suspect the inspection at the dealer would only be looking for signs of leakage rather than checking the actual level or other aspect. It shows to change each (as I interpret) 15000 in which you did towing.

I am not saying changing at 60K is not a good idea-- especially if you are going to go top up anyway, but it is not in the guide for the non-tow driver. I guess that the fact that brake fluid is not even mentioned in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide shows that it does not show all of the fluid changes that should be made. So it is worth discussing. Has anybody changed this oil and found that the change was clearly overdue?

Note that Frankxyz was only asking if it would be OK to wait until this weekend to add oil.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thank you all. I did top it off. I couldnt figure out how to use gravity and a length of hose to add fluid in such close quarters.
I didnt think this would work, but I ended up using a spray bottle and it worked ok with the 80W.
Best regards.
 
#9 ·
frankxyz said:
Thank you all. I did top it off. I couldnt figure out how to use gravity and a length of hose to add fluid in such close quarters.
I didnt think this would work, but I ended up using a spray bottle and it worked ok with the 80W.
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Gear oil has very high viscosity. The best thing to do before filling the oil is place the oil next to a heater and warm it up a bit so it can flow easier. Just keep an eyes on it so you don't start a fire.
Oil gun w/ clear tube works really well when filling the the transfercase.
Image
 
#10 ·
Carbon said:
My 2009 Scheduled Maintenance Guide does not show a scheduled change for the transfer case. It shows to inspect every 15000 miles (as it does for the brake lines and several other things). I suspect the inspection at the dealer would only be looking for signs of leakage rather than checking the actual level or other aspect. It shows to change each (as I interpret) 15000 in which you did towing.

I am not saying changing at 60K is not a good idea-- especially if you are going to go top up anyway, but it is not in the guide for the non-tow driver. I guess that the fact that brake fluid is not even mentioned in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide shows that it does not show all of the fluid changes that should be made. So it is worth discussing. Has anybody changed this oil and found that the change was clearly overdue?

Note that Frankxyz was only asking if it would be OK to wait until this weekend to add oil.
Click to expand...
I know I saw 60K somewhere. But, I can tell you that when I changed mine at 70K there was a lot of metal particles in the oil. So much so, it was nearly silver in color. With only about a pint or so, I can't imagine leaving it in there for much longer.
 
#11 ·
arries289 said:
I know I saw 60K somewhere. But, I can tell you that when I changed mine at 70K there was a lot of metal particles in the oil. So much so, it was nearly silver in color. With only about a pint or so, I can't imagine leaving it in there for much longer.
Click to expand...
Very interesting observation. Did you do your your differential? As far as I can tell, there is no independent lube for the electromagnetic coupling. I guess it would be lubed by the differential lube; I doubt that it is dry.
 
#12 ·
arries289 said:
I know I saw 60K somewhere. But, I can tell you that when I changed mine at 70K there was a lot of metal particles in the oil. So much so, it was nearly silver in color. With only about a pint or so, I can't imagine leaving it in there for much longer.
Click to expand...
Is the drain plug magnetic?
 
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#14 ·
Carbon said:
Very interesting observation. Did you do your your differential? As far as I can tell, there is no independent lube for the electromagnetic coupling. I guess it would be lubed by the differential lube; I doubt that it is dry.
Click to expand...
I did the diff at the same time. The oil didn't have near the metallic color of the transfer case.
 
#15 ·
arries289,
Since the plug isn't magnetic I wondered if you used a magnet to determine if the particles were steel or aluminum.
 
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#17 ·
Carbon said:
The transfer case/transmission assembly is shown in this: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...giGIAA&cad=rja

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...tem/030000.pdf has diagrams including one that I would call a mechanical schematic diagram.

Capacities are shown in http://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4 Repair Manual/GF1A Transfer/Transfer Oil/03000310.pdf
Click to expand...
Carbon, thanks for the links and info. My odo is about 70k and I want to replace the fluid. Do you or anyone else have a gasket size or type? Is it a metal crush washer (as with my Lexus RX300) or a nonmetalic, common gasket material? I'd like to get the parts together before I start.
 
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#18 ·
Dr. Dyno said:
arries289,
Since the plug isn't magnetic I wondered if you used a magnet to determine if the particles were steel or aluminum.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure the drains in both transfer and rear diff were magnetic with very small amounts of grey metal powder on them when I replaced those fluids at ~20,000 miles. The fluids looked OK at that time, except the rear diff moderately darker than new. I will do next fluid change at ~60,000 miles as the volumes of those fluids are ridiculously low (0.5 qt each).

I did it so early, because when i waited till ~50,000 miles on my previous AWD car (Subaru) the fluids were silvery-black with lots of magnetic (=steel) metal in them.

I use my cars a bit harder than most (heavy boat towing and high speeds at full load often).
 
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#19 ·
RAV4Don said:
Carbon, thanks for the links and info. My odo is about 70k and I want to replace the fluid. Do you or anyone else have a gasket size or type? Is it a metal crush washer (as with my Lexus RX300) or a nonmetalic, common gasket material? I'd like to get the parts together before I start.
Click to expand...
IIRC (has been a while), there was a metal washer and I reused it with no leaks.
 
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