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amxguy1970

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I did a lot of reading on this before proceeding and wanted to put what I learned out there for everyone one. My gf has a 2007 Rav4 base with just under 70k miles on it so it was due a fluid change, it was dirty coming out. First a few things I read that were off, it took more then 4 qts of fluid, 4.5 to be exact, not the 3-4 I had been reading. Second, there was a filter on there, no screen. I think that may have had something to do with the excess fluid amount too because a good amount came out when I dropped the filter. Finally just un-bolt the brace on the drivers side prior to taking off the pan, makes it much easier and it is only 4 large bolts (it doesn't hold up the engine in any way so it is safe).

Other then that the plastic cover on the bottom is a pain in the butt...

Good thing to do around the time, we maintain all our vehicles and do the tranny around 70k on everything. The gf noticed a smoother shift immediately after. I will do just a drain and fill in about 10k to get a little more of the old fluid out.

One thing I have found to love is the tranny oil plug, I am a GM guy and have yet to see one on a auto transmission which makes the process cleaner and a little easier.

Tyler
 
Guess I should be thinking about doing mine. I prefer a full fluid exchange but shops that do that don't generally change the filter. I'll probably do the filter and change 1/3 of the fluid. Or maybe put the old fluid back in and unhook the cooler lines and rig my own exchange system.
Where did you get the filter & fluid?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
The filter was a kit at auto zone for $20 with a gasket, and the fluid I bought there was Valvoline high mileage, they say and guarantee it works with the Toyota WS fluids (except hybrids). I have heard some stories about doing flush causing problems so I just do the filter and fluid change, we have never had a problem doing that and I would bet half fluid and a new filter is more important and better then just a full fluid flush (its what the filter is for...)

Good luck!

Tyler
 
While I can't speak for Toyota or the RAV specifically, the generally accepted rule of thumb is that most transmission wear occurs in the first 10,000 miles or so. It's this wear material that the factory filter (and magnet if present) is designed to capture. Changing the filter once is a good thing, but it's not usually required again during subsequent fluid changes unless the transmission is being repaired due to mechanical failure or fluid contamination.
 
I just did mine again yesterday but only a drain and fill. ('07 4 cyl. auto) The tranny pan is on the driver's side underneath but hidden by a large plastic panel. I cheated several weeks ago and used a hole saw to cut a 1.5-2" hole in the panel for access to the drain plug which is a 10mm Allen hex. It would be right out in the open if it weren't for the plastic panel which is retained by those stupid plastic Jesus clips. The trans takes 3.5-4qts for a drain and fill, I had to do mine 3 times to get it nice and red. (drain and fill only gets 1/3-1/2 of the fluid out) Mine takes Toy WS fluid, which is $9/qt at the dealer, I bought a case for about $100. I suggest using OEM fluids only in the trans and cooling system.

When I had the shop I did pull tranny lines commonly and let the tranny pump it out until it stopped, put a few qts of new fluid in, and continue letting it pump until it looked clean. Just another way of doing it.
 
Since our transmissions take 8.6 quarts of ATF and I already have 6 quarts, I will buy 4 more quarts and try to drain through the tranny lines.

In my Mazda6 , I used exactly what Bruce_Amacker described but I wanted to try something different this time.

Did you drop the pan and change the filter? If so after how many miles and was the filter dirty?
 
ended up doing 4 times to get nice clear/pink fluid. And it sure shifts nicer. No more cold bang into drive..
Sounds good. Did you ever drop the pan and change the filter?
 
If you drop the pan and the filter assembly from the valve body, you will replace about 4.5 quarts. My transmission only has a screen filter.

However what comes out of the line in a flush versus what is in the pan is nasty. I got a simple transmission line kit for eight bucks ( ijust wanted the rubber line) at Advance Auto and cut the line in two. So I had about 3 feet from the trans cooler output to a 2 quart juice jug. I ended up flushing about 14 quarts through before I got fairly clear red, but not totally. I had a compare bottle of fresh fluid and there was no doubt in my mind I would never get totally clear. It was not super pink.

However when I hooked it all back up, the dipstick shows super pink.

I believe if you have the time, its not hard at all to flush this system. Being my first (Flushing an automatic transmission), it was simple. And the line out put into the juice jug was not at a high rate, it took about 12-15 seconds to fill the jug up to the two quart line. Keep in mind when the key is turned off, the line pushes about another second.

I pulled the driver cross member (17mm, six point socket with a breaker bar) so dropping the pan was uber easy at this point. Dropping the pan will leave about 1/4 - 1/3 of fluid in the bottom of the pan due to design. Plus I take the opportunity to clean the whole pan of all the clutch dust and clean and reposition the magnets.

I opted to use the "rubber" gasket from Advance Auto like when I dropped the pan at 36K and not the cork gasket from Toyota. Advance auto is 6.xx for the gasket, Toyota was 12.xx. I had no leaks from the first drain/fill so I guess it works fine. I used LocTite Blue for the 18 pan bolts (10mm 5.57 FT/LB) and tightened in a criss cross pattern.

BTW: Just doing a pan drop and fill showed pink at 36K.
 
No I did not... I figured at 50k miles its too early
Given the garbage I found at dropping the pan at 36K and 7xK, you can never not gain anything by dropping the pan. Whether you feel its worth your time or not is a whole different story.
 
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