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Finding a used rav4 with tow package, how can I identify it?

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pwn

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I know what is included with the tow package, but is there an easy way I can identify it? None of the V6 4wd rav4's I'm seeing have it listed. I'm starting to think dealers/sellers just don't know its there. Any way I can identify it myself?

Installing it after the fact is a very expensive option and probably not a good idea right?

Thanks!
Morgan
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
But the hitch and wiring aren't included, so even if no hitch is present it could be there right?

Those pics would be great if you know where they are :)

Is it possible to install the hitch without the tow package? (Just do I know what to scrutinize)

Thanks,
Morgan
 
#4 ·
No, the hitch/harness are not included in the "tow prep" pkg. If u read the thread (linked), it says the 140A fuse is in the fuse box by the battery and brackets are under the rear bumper. No 140A fuse and no brackets......no "tow prep" pkg.

Yes, a hitch can be installed without the "tow prep" pkg.......without the "tow prep" pkg, V6 max towed trailer weight drops from 3500 lbs to 2000 lbs.
 
#6 ·
If u must have the tow prep pkg and looking at a used RAV4 at a dealership, don't be surprised if the sales person says "it's got the V6, so it has the tow prep pkg". We were told that on several occasions by sales people showing us used V6 RAV4s. After calling Toyota Customer Service to verify, each time TCS would say "no, that RAV4 (gave then the VIN) does not have the tow prep pkg". Why 'yota would leave off a $160 option on a V6 RAV4 is beyond me, but in our looking around at various dealerships, it is quite common for V6 RAVs to "not" have the tow prep pkg. Come on 'yota, what's up with that?:wall

It was thru this excellent forum that I learned how to identify a "tow prep pkg" equipped RAV4 that didn't still have the original MSRP sticker.
 
#7 ·
The tow prep package includes a different radiator+transmission cooler plus the bigger alternator. That is not going to make it easier to identify, but it does show what you are buying for money.
 
#11 ·
pwn said:
But the hitch and wiring aren't included, so even if no hitch is present it could be there right?

Those pics would be great if you know where they are :)
Click to expand...
OK, here are the pics of a RAV4 WITH the tow prep package:

Underhood fuse box next to battery:

Image


Image


Bracket behind rear bumper:

Image
 
#12 ·
With the tow pkg and no wiring.
Easiest is to pull in a 30A singlr circuit fused from the battery through the under body to the rear panel. Mount a small box and out of that box use gas/oil resistant # 12 stranded wire. It needs to be robust for the handling in all weather. Fine stranded is best, a thick insulation that is good at temperatures to -20F. No cracking.

Then mount fuses in the box for signals, running, turns.

Mount a direct single 30A then down to 20 A #12 ground wire. DO NOT USE THE HITCH ASSEMBLY AS YOUR GROUND.

Mount your choice of connector, best if it is water proof and big. The small connector with the bare copper as ground are not robust enough.

DO NOT TIE INTO DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE LED BRAKES LIGHTS. Stay some distance away, the use of relays, battery power will save the load on the rear wiring, they are LED and likely your trailer is incandescent.
 
#13 ·
ARK said:
With the tow pkg and no wiring.
Easiest is to pull in a 30A singlr circuit fused from the battery through the under body to the rear panel. Mount a small box and out of that box use gas/oil resistant # 12 stranded wire. It needs to be robust for the handling in all weather. Fine stranded is best, a thick insulation that is good at temperatures to -20F. No cracking.

Then mount fuses in the box for signals, running, turns.

Mount a direct single 30A then down to 20 A #12 ground wire. DO NOT USE THE HITCH ASSEMBLY AS YOUR GROUND.

Mount your choice of connector, best if it is water proof and big. The small connector with the bare copper as ground are not robust enough.

DO NOT TIE INTO DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE LED BRAKES LIGHTS. Stay some distance away, the use of relays, battery power will save the load on the rear wiring, they are LED and likely your trailer is incandescent.
Click to expand...
Egad! :egad:I completely disagree with most of this post!
1. I you have a tow prep package there will already be a white wire up under the left side of the dash powered by a empty 30A "Towing" fuse position in the front left underhood fuse box.
2. Run the wire inside the body under the kick and side panels not underneath the body.
3. The commercially available plug & play harnesses can be connected directly into the brake and taillights. The supplied converter does any needed isolation.
4. In fact if all you're running is trailer lights, not electric brakes or live trailer power, you don't even need to run a power wire from the front, just pick up power at the rear 12V outlet.
 
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#14 ·
I'll hi-jack this thread.....sorry. Is there any way (or has anyone done it) to hook-up a aftermarket trailer wire harness without removing the large plastic rear panels?........could the harness simply be installed via the 2 pop-out panels/doors on each side (where the jack and handle are located) and the wires taped/laid in the storage well?:shrug:
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Do you guys think it would be pushing it to tow a cayman s on a trailex car hauler? The car is ~2900, lets say 3000 and the trailer is 900, so that's not too far from max capacity. I also know its been rated higher for ROW. It would obviously have electric brakes etc.

Would wheel base be more of a concern?

Morgan
 
#16 ·
pwn said:
Do you guys think it would be pushing it to tow a Cayman S on a trailer car hauler? The car is ~2900, lets say 3000 and the trailer is 900, so that's not too far from max capacity. I also know its been rated higher for ROW. It would obviously have electric brakes etc.

Would wheel base be more of a concern?
Click to expand...
1. Unless maybe it's an aluminum trailer it's over 900 lbs by a ways.
2. Explain "ROW" please?
3, Why would wheelbase be a concern?

I assume you're talking a V6 tow-prep, right?
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Dr. Dyno said:
1. Unless maybe it's an aluminum trailer it's over 900 lbs by a ways.
2. Explain "ROW" please?
3, Why would wheelbase be a concern?

I assume you're talking a V6 tow-prep, right?
Click to expand...
Yes, it's an aluminum trailer.

Sorry, ROW is a popular term at least with Porsche, stands for rest of world. There's a lot of those :(

I don't know, just needing something bigger in general for this. I'm really hoping this can work with the v6 4wd with tow prep.

Thanks!
Morgan
 
#18 ·
pwn said:
Yes, it's an aluminum trailer.

Sorry, ROW is a popular term at least with Porsche, stands for rest of world. There's a lot of those :(

I don't know, just needing something bigger in general for this. I'm really hoping this can work with the v6 4wd with tow prep.
Click to expand...
Well, I'd do it if it was one trip. You wouldn't believe some of the trailers I've towed with my Honda Accords, or more accurately, got away with towing. :oops:

At this point of better financial position I'd just use one of my F-250s. Obviously more capable and the Diesel would probably get the same fuel mileage.

Since you haven't bought a RAV4 yet, I think, I'd get a 5,000 lb rated tow vehicle, especially if you planned on towing regularly. If you can afford a Cayman and an aluminum trailer, I'd have no problem :) spending your $$$$ on more robust tow vehicle than a RAV4.
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Dr. Dyno said:
Well, I'd do it if it was one trip. You wouldn't believe some of the trailers I've towed with my Honda Accords, or more accurately, got away with towing. :oops:

At this point of better financial position I'd just use one of my F-250s. Obviously more capable and the Diesel would probably get the same fuel mileage.

Since you haven't bought a RAV4 yet, I think, I'd get a 5,000 lb rated tow vehicle, especially if you planned on towing regularly. If you can afford a Cayman and an aluminum trailer, I'd have no problem :) spending your $$$$ on more robust tow vehicle than a RAV4.
Click to expand...
Well here is my dilema. I have the porsche which has aggressive suspension and alignment settings, which I don't really want to DD. I commute around 15k miles a year, probably put down 20k over all, so I need something that will be efficient, that is AWD so I can take it to tahoe, and something that can tow. I drive an STI now, which is worth around 27-28k and I'm trying to stay in that budget for the SUV and trailer.

Unfortunately anything with a 5,000 lb rating feels like a boat, gets ~20 mpg on the freeway etc. I would be towing maybe 6 times a year, under 4,000 pounds.

I fear there is just no solution here. I could always just get a commuter car and a truck, but I'm only 24! I don't need three cars and a trailer lol. Two cars and a trailer is already a bit much.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Also, the trailex trailers I'm looking at are anywhere from 830lbs to 910 lbs, with the most likely candidate coming in at 845lbs! Pretty light. So I'm looking at ~850 for the trailer and ~3000 for the cayman with fuel.

morgan
 
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