That got me thinking about it. In 2002 ford truck it just cuts off the fuel pump for 15 minutes at a time. I still do not understand all about the Toyota version.

Once it kicks in how long does it stay on?

Can it get triggered if I mix up the same type of key for two different cars and into my car and push the start button?

I saw a number of posts for older cars when I googled it that talked about problems after changing the battery.

I found the following bulletin. That might be of some help. I would also call the tech support line for the remote start kit that you put in.

https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2015/10/96213_T-SB-0043-14.pdf

It may be that a local locksmith has the software tools to deal with it.

 

Man that stinks. Out of curiosity, did you disconnect the battery prior to install? Maybe it was zinged during install when cutting into the immobilizer wire on the OBDII?

Unless you have a techstream cable, I'm not sure that you can fix this as the above poster points you to techstream info. If you can wait a few days, you can pic up the cable on Amazon cheaper than a tow and acquire the software via search(I don't think anyone can link it on this site? or maybe that was another Toyota site). Meh, did a search and heres a link to a thread for ya. http://www.rav4world.com/forums/122-toyota/187730-techstream-mvci-64bit-windows-8-1-works-3.html

Otherwise, also mentioned above is that some locksmiths have the software and cable to do it as well. They will charge a bit to do it as they license the software(or at least they are supposed to) and it's a very pricey piece of software especially if you have low turnover. Non official business people like us just find it online and use it.

Does the remote start, start the car at all? Or nothing at all?

Darn things are pesky as heck. I was going to do mine myself as well but BestBuy had a deal for $250 for a 2-way basic remote with install, last year but it's back this year. I decided that was easier and safer...Unfortunately, they are idiots and screwed mine up a bit. They grounded one of the wires to the tilt switch, so every time I accelerated, the remote start started its process again or something and all my lights blinked. Took a few trips and a tech that wasn't an idiot to fix it. Tech guy even admitted that the guy has screwed up a couple already(I think he said 1 in 5 he does comes back). I honestly dreaded the idea of doing it there and now I know why.

Live an learn, but good luck. I'll probably do mine myself next time as well but I like the compustar versions better

 

I don't know what I did to get the car running again. Tried many things but none seemed to work. I unhooked the battery. I pulled and checked each fuse. I tried the tricks the older toyota had. Nothing worked. I then was unhooking the remote start to take the car in. I unplugged the t harness at the ignition switch and it started right up. Hooked the remote start back up and everything is now working.

Sent from my SM-C115 using Tapatalk

 

As I thought about this more. I started to think that the T harness was not fully engaged into the ignition switch. The problem is that when I would turn the key to the on position, the main computer would come on. The dash lights would not come on and the car would not start cranking when turned to the start position. That immobilizer lock light goes off when the key is inserted into the ignition. I am not sure if that light was always on and blinking when the car was not running. My wife is the primary driver of this car so it is doubtful that she would have recognized a red flashing light in the past

 

lol glad you got it fixed. Probably should have suggested to look over the connections prior to any other suggestion :/

Yup the light does flash periodically when the door is open and other random times when the car isn't running.