Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

awakenight

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Does anyone try to replace the 4WD control ECU for the V6 RAV4 (part number 89630-42020)? I have the highway vibration noise and dealer confirmed it's the TC-006-07. My car is 2006 so I need to pay it myself. Dealer wanted 1200+ for the repair ($890 for just the part). I saw lots of used unit on ebay for $50-80 dollars and brand new one for $600 dollars. Does anyone try to replace it? Is it just plug and play or it needs to be reprogrammed?

Thanks,

KP
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks Ravsterv6! That's exactly what I am thinking about doing. The TSB didn't do any repair, just replace the 4WD ECU with the part that has newer part number.

The question now is how to do it. Does anyone know where it is and does it need some kind of reprogramming after installation?

Thanks~
 
The 4WD ECU is easily accessible. I'd suggest unplugging it as a test. It's one of two modules located just forward of the glove box. Release the box so it drops down and you'll see them. I don't remember which is which but the other one is the TPMS ECU which will turn the flat tire light on if you unplug it.
I highly doubt it has to be programmed.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks! When I was checking the part number. Looks like both V6 and L4 shared the same 4WD module, even the TSB was only for V6, am I right? I think I might buy one of those from Ebay and give it a shot. I will post the update when it's done.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Hi All,

Here is the update for the 4WD control ECU. Dealer wanted $1220 after tax to replace the ECU (part#89630-42020) and I decided to give ebay a shot. Ordered one that was pulled from a crashed 2008 RAV4 V6 for $55 dollars, received it today and the installation took about 10 mins. Went out for a test drive and the vibration/noise went away completely. I will rate this is one of the most rewarding DIY car repairs I ever did considering it took less than 10 mins to save $1000+

Here are some pictures and the service manual I found online.

Picture one: Dr. Dyno is right, when pulled down the glove box, the small one on the left is the TMPS module and the bigger one on the right is the 4WD ECU.
Picture two: The old ECU (left) and the ECU I got from ebay (right), you can see the difference in part numbers.

It's pretty much plug and play. no reprogramming needed. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start.

Thanks everyone for the help. :D
 

Attachments

Appreciate the write-up and pictures awakenight. Now I just have to remember where to find them next time I need them.
But I wouldn't bother disconnecting the battery since I'm sure the ECU isn't powered with the key off.
I'm also thinking I'll upgrade my ECU before any problems develop.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I just followed the service manual which mentioned to disconnect the negative terminal first. The only problem is you have to reset your radio and clock.

Put more than 200 highway miles on the RAV4 today and the vibration issue didn't come back. I think the upgraded old ebay 4WD ECU did fix the problem.
 
I wonder about that, Doc. The EVAC test runs automatically only when the key is off.
I just followed the service manual which mentioned to disconnect the negative terminal first. The only problem is you have to reset your radio and clock.
No worries either way. I suppose I could dig thru the schematics to see if the 4WD ECU gets live power but no matter I'd just pull its plug live even if it did. Did that many times when I had it out and apart whilst trying to keep the rear drive on above the 25mph automatic 4WD LOCK shutoff.

This whole thread makes me wonder what the difference is between the original and new ECU. The odd thing I observe about mine is I see the LED I attached to the electro-coupler drive signal lighting dimly and going off continuously at 5-10 second intervals while driving down the dry interstate at highway speeds. There's no sound accompanying the LED so it doesn't seem to be doing any harm but there's no good reason for it either.

Right now I'm doing major surgery - replacing what's called the rear crossmember. That may sound like a trivial part but the whole rear suspension attaches to it and it bolts to the body at four points one of which I found 90% rusted away while checking the rear brakes. It's quite a slow going job that probably would be $4-5000 at the dealer. The part is $1600 + whatever else they'd break doing it + likely 24 hours labor. I bought the part used from a yard for $135 and am trying to not break anything else.

Once I get the car back on the road I plan on eBaying the upgraded ECU and seeing how the LED responds.
 
Hi,
I just have to thank awakenight etc and this forum for giving me peace of mind and saving me a ton of money! I just bought a 2006 Rav4 limited, that had the exact same problem, the vibration and rumbling starting at 1500rpms. I saw the TSB for the V6 but nothing on the 4cyl. I didn't hear or feel this when I test drove it because the roads were really bumpy anyway and everything seemed ok but when I met with the owner at the BMV to transfer the title and then drove it home on the highway, I felt and heard that rumble. Awakenight, I went to eBay and bought the upgraded module like you did and prayed it would solve the problem. I received it today and switched it out and it's gone!!!! I am ever so thankful that you posted your results. My husband and I are both disabled and didn't have much money to even buy a car and when this problem surfaced, I was extremely stressed and worried. You saved us a ton of money and regret! We love the car and it only has 108,000 miles on it. For 6500, we thought we got a good deal. Now that it's fixed, I think we did! Thanks again to everyone and this forum!
 
Snakelady,

Welcome aboard, the forum has already helped you. If your 2006 is the four cylinder they can burn/use copious amounts of oil unless Toyota rebuilt it. Just wanted to make you aware of it. Check that oil!
 
Snakelady,

Welcome aboard, the forum has already helped you. If your 2006 is the four cylinder they can burn/use copious amounts of oil unless Toyota rebuilt it. Just wanted to make you aware of it. Check that oil!
Thanks RTexasF! I did see that here too. The guy that I bought it from just had the oil changed and put on new brakes and rotors all the way around, plus a new battery and alternator. I've put on almost 500 miles and have been checking the oil when I fill up. So far, there hasn't been any oil consumption. Maybe I got one that doesn't use oil but I won't really know that for another 6-700 miles or so. Lol. I'm just so happy that transfer case module solved the rumble problem! I was really stressed out about that! Thanks!
 
EDIT * Nevermind, someone on the rav4 facebook group recommended this for me but when I went and checked my part numbers I realized I had the upgraded one already because mine is a 2011 *

So is there any good way to test whether my problem is torque converter shudder or the 4wd ecu before I go ahead and just order an ECU and try it?
I get a vibration at a little over 1500rpm, feels like a super mild version of a rumble strip. It's most noticeable in 5th gear, around 55mph when you're just slightly on the throttle, like on a flat or a slight hill. But now I think I can feel it in other gears at the same rpm and same conditions.
Thanks!
 
Here is the update for the 4WD control ECU. Dealer wanted $1220 after tax to replace the ECU (part#89630-42020) and I decided to give ebay a shot. Ordered one that was pulled from a crashed 2008 RAV4 V6 for $55 dollars, received it today and the installation took about 10 mins. Went out for a test drive and the vibration/noise went away completely. I will rate this is one of the most rewarding DIY car repairs I ever did considering it took less than 10 mins to save $1000+
Hi guys,
I recently replaced the part# 89630-42010 with #89630-42020 and ... surprise. The vibration is gone. What I don't understand is: what can a computer (probably in the transfer case) change to make a vibration that you physically feel disappear? Any way, I am satisfied with the result thanks to you, guys on the forum. Thank you again.
 
what can a computer (probably in the transfer case) change to make a vibration that you physically feel disappear?
Because it was calling for the rear differential electrocoupler to be activated. Not fully, just partially, or intermittently.
 
If anyone is still on here - I have a question - I have this same rumble strip scenario with my 2011 RAV4. If I have the upgraded ECU, should I switch it out anyway just to see? Also, if someone is marketing the ECU as compatible with a 2006-2010 model, will it still work in my model?
Thanks in advance!
 
The first test is driving with the 4WD ECU unplugged. If you still get the vibration you may have a U-joint in the driveshaft that's starting to freeze up. Has happened to several members over the past year or so.
 
  • Like
Reactions: annedemeter
1 - 20 of 37 Posts