Finally, someone posted how to install complete fog light kits on LE models.
I understand all of this, my problem is locating a wire that I can tap into that provides 12vdc. I initially though of tapping into the wire going into the 3-light fixture, but the triggering wires all provide 5vdc, not 12vdc. I tried the Automatic High Beam Switch, but, likewise, the voltage is 5vdc.You need an extra 5-pin relay connected to the high beam relay output, where the normally closed position allows power to flow to the fog lights, but when energized cuts off the fogs. I’m waiting for my 5-pin relays to come in the mail, but plan on doing a full write-up on the install in my LE hybrid model in a few weeks (once I complete the install!). Got help from others on the forum here and will go through detailed steps.
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Relay Wiring Diagram 4 Pin | Relay, Electrical circuit diagram, Diagram
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Canadian vehicles must be different. While the wiring diagrams I have show a high beam fuse (H-LP HI LH) it doesn't exist, I just have one fuse for the entire 3-beam headlight assembly (H-LP LH). Ditto with the relay, there is one relay for the entire headlight system, everything else is in the headlight assembly itself.You can tap in anywhere between the high beam relay and the headlight fixture under the hood. That side is fused 20A and should be able to handle a relay input. You’d want to install a smaller fuse on the wire to your relay after the tap.
Oh, you are right. Mine is the same as yours (there’s an H-LP RH as well). Another Canadian (I thought?) user had separate hi and low beam relays. Maybe production year changes. Or perhaps Toyota put these in the bottom of the fusebox (there is a button level, usually has stuff like the alternator fusible link) in Canada so people couldn’t defeat their Daytime running lights. Noted that I have no DRL fuse or relay as well, and single headlight fuses (no separate for high and low beam despite being marked as such).Canadian vehicles must be different. While the wiring diagrams I have show a high beam fuse (H-LP HI LH) it doesn't exist, I just have one fuse for the entire 3-beam headlight assembly (H-LP LH). Ditto with the relay, there is one relay for the entire headlight system, everything else is in the headlight assembly itself.
Good luck, really. I have examined every wire from the steering column to the AHB switch, through to the lights themselves. Everything is 5vdc. My current (no pun) attempt is to find a 5vdc relay that will work. The problem is (where the pun comes in) is that the current available is very low, too low for a mechanical relay. I tried a SSDR (solid state) but that did not work for the same reason, but it was a 40A relay. I've been working with a company that sells relays, they said the 40A is too large, they sold me a 10A relay, the lowest that will work in this application. If it doesn't work then I have to start looking into PC board relays, but they're not meant to handle the heat in the engine compartment.Oh, you are right. Mine is the same as yours (there’s an H-LP RH as well). Another Canadian user had separate hi and low beam relays. Maybe production year changes. This changes my plans (that I was sure were going to work). Will investigate more.
Interesting. Another user I’d communicated with has a Hybrid Limited in Canada and had separate hi and low beam relays.Good luck, really. I have examined every wire from the steering column to the AHB switch, through to the lights themselves. Everything is 5vdc. My current (no pun) attempt is to find a 5vdc relay that will work. The problem is (where the pun comes in) is that the current available is very low, too low for a mechanical relay. I tried a SSDR (solid state) but that did not work for the same reason, but it was a 40A relay. I've been working with a company that sells relays, they said the 40A is too large, they sold me a 10A relay, the lowest that will work in this application. If it doesn't work then I have to start looking into PC board relays, but they're not meant to handle the heat in the engine compartment.
No, I didn't see that when I searched Amazon, doesn't say what "low voltage" is, this is what I ordered:Interesting. Another user I’d communicated with has a Hybrid Limited in Canada and had separate hi and low beam relays.
I assume for the LE’s they put all the switching assemblies in the lamp assembly itself.
When you say solid-state module, are you talking one of these?
PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Output (Black) PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Output (Black): Amazon.ca: Electronics
I found the manual after I had already posted and updated with the link, it can take anywhere from 0.8 to 16 V as a trigger.No, I didn't see that when I searched Amazon, doesn't say what "low voltage" is, this is what I ordered:
EL100D10-05N Sensata-Crydom | Relays | DigiKey
Order today, ships today. EL100D10-05N – Solid State SPST-NO (1 Form A) Module from Sensata-Crydom. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.tinyurl.com
I'm not sure how it works, it would have to be NO, and able to handle 10A if attached to the trigger side of the first relay, or 20A if attached to the load side of the original relay.I
I found the manual after I had already posted and updated with the link, it can take anywhere from 0.8 to 16 V as a trigger.
The “20 A” relay that came with my fog light kit has a resistance of 100 ohms across the coil side. V=IR so even assuming vehicle voltage is running at 14.6 V (let’s say, 15 V for simplicity), I=V/R or I=15/100 = 0.15 A or 150 mA. So I’m saying one could tap the low beam 5V wire to the module, use that as a trigger, then drive a standard relay with that device) since it can support up to 2A.I'm not sure how it works, it would have to be NO, and able to handle 10A if attached to the trigger side of the first relay, or 20A if attached to the load side of the original relay.
That was my plan, but thus far I haven't been able to find a relay that can trigger off of the low beam wire. I connected the - side to ground, the + side to the low beam wire, and nothing. I had nothing connected to the load side of the relay, just the trigger side was connected. I connected a multimeter to the load side on the ohm setting (audible when near zero) and the meter did not go to zero.The “20 A” relay that came with my fog light kit has a resistance of 100 ohms across the coil side. V=IR so even assuming vehicle voltage is running at 14.6 V (let’s say, 15 V for simplicity), I=V/R or I=15/100 = 0.15 A or 150 mA. So I’m saying one could tap the low beam 5V wire to the module, use that as a trigger, then drive a standard relay with that device) since it can support up to 2A.
That module I posted seems to be able to do the job, but giving its programming flexibility I’m a little worried that it might interpret a power glitch as programming and start flashing my fog lights like police wigwags.That was my plan, but thus far I haven't been able to find a relay that can trigger off of the low beam wire. I connected the - side to ground, the + side to the low beam wire, and nothing. I had nothing connected to the load side of the relay, just the trigger side was connected. I connected a multimeter to the load side on the ohm setting (audible when near zero) and the meter did not go to zero.
Mine is supposed to arrive by end-of-week, will post when I see what happens.That module
That module I posted seems to be able to do the job, but giving its programming flexibility I’m a little worried that it might interpret a power glitch as programming and start flashing my fog lights like police wigwags.
Mine is supposed to arrive by end-of-week, will post when I see what happens.
Can you upload the manual on the one you found?
The only problem I see is the 2A limit.
Possible. It could not go in the engine compartment since it is not protected from weather. It's similar to what I am trying, but mine is sealed. There are many issues: length of wire from the headlight to the relay (current drop); heat dissipation (10A is a lot of power); available current to trigger the relay. Toyota is not making this easy.This is an interesting problem to solve. I wonder if something like this (says it works on 5V) driving a 12V 10 A automotive relay would do the job. Or, even on its own m.
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5V Relay Module
Description Relays are suitable for driving high power electronic devices such as lights, electric fan and air condition This relay module can be used to control high voltages with a low voltage by connecting to an MCU Working voltage: 5v; PCB size: 2.0 x 4.3 cm Power indicator and signal output...www.robotshop.com
A 10 A relay doesn’t draw 10 A in the coil. For example, this one:The only problem I see is the 2A limit.
Possible. It could not go in the engine compartment since it is not protected from weather. It's similar to what I am trying, but mine is sealed. There are many issues: length of wire from the headlight to the relay (current drop); heat dissipation (10A is a lot of power); available current to trigger the relay. Toyota is not making this easy.