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2021 Rav4 Prime corroded/rusted Rear Motor-Generator (RM) harness RF shield, with pics.

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18K views 79 replies 25 participants last post by  Safedad  
#1 · (Edited)
So I took an hour to get out the ramps and get under my 2021 R4Prime to get a look at this corrosion problem. Then I took a couple of days to procrastinate writing it up in a post. Writing is always the more difficult part for me. When I think about it, the hour to perform the experiment went fast and was fun, and the writing is work (not fun).

I know it is sensational to talk about the expensive replacement/labor cost when it fails completely and stops the vehicle. I think it will be an easy DIY fix to clean off rust and use some conductor to complete RF shield circuit at base of connector to RM, if/when it fails. I’ll be performing preventative, rust preventing measures before this winter. This is a bad look for Toyota and they should fix it for everybody, but I think the impact is moderate (car will not run) and the DIY fix is minimal. UNLESS, you talk and believe (do your own diligence) dealership/stealership expensive solution to the problem.

So let’s keep the not-fun writing to a minimum and let the (sensational) picture do the talking.

Here is the result of 2 Syracuse NY winterings worth of road salt/grime (very sensational pics). I’m letting Toyota know about this today. Let’s see if I can get my Brand Advisor supervisior to give me a call-back to talk about this.


Image


Image




To the left of finger, it looks like a (new?) drain for the water to exit the orange plastic cover. Unfortunately, stuff (up to 2mm) still gets into the plastic cover and (it felt like) at lot of dust and dirt drizzled onto my head from there as I was removing the orange cover via two plastic clips. The clips were hard to disengage, but the cover eventually (partially) opened up an inch to see inside. I’ll be back in there before winter to clean RF shield up and spay rust preventer.
Image




Here is the other side of the orange cover that Toyota modified/removed to let water and road-grime out of the plastic cover. R4Prime has solid (trapping) plastic on both sides of plastic cover. Perhaps because of the water ‘drain’ depression on this cover, seen above. Also note the elaborate (whatever it’s called) clamp where wires go into orange conduit. Does this orange conduit go longer (up into body) on R4Prime vs Hybrid/Gasser (2nd pic below)?
Click to enlarge thumbnails.



And here is an interesting picture showing connectors on the bottom AND top of the MG main EV connection. There were questions about why the connector was moved to the bottom where the water can/will? cause problems eventually. I will have to see what is plugged in on top and where the wires go.
Image




Here is the removed tray that covers the RM. Note; It has good drainage hole locations but still collects road grime. It felt like that much road grime fell out of the orange cover and onto my face/head. Need to rent hoist time when I go back to mediate rust on RF shield.
Image


Enjoy.

Edit; Mega-Tread from Hybrid forum on the subject here; High Voltage Cable Big Corrosion Problem
 
#2 ·
Great pics, thanks for the writeup- 2 questions.

Appx mileage on your R4P?

Also, I haven't had time to dig through the mega thread on this. Is it just the RF shield that's corroding and failing, or is the conductor in the orange insulation failing? If it's just the shielding this seems like a expensive dealer repair, but a nothingburger DIY. Is my read on this correct?

BTW, saw your post on the other thread regarding CRC. We use CorrosionX in aviation. It's good stuff too. I've got some in the garage. I'll shoot my braid one day when I have time.
 
#4 ·
Just over 18,000 miles since late Sep 2020.

Yes you are correct. I think it is just the RF shield that’s corroding, eventually breaking a test circuit that triggers vehicle shut down. Understandable that vehicle stops if a main power wire harness detects that the RF shield was just compromised. It could be from a collision under the vehicle or something that seriously compromised a main power wire. The few picture of the actual 3 phase power connector internals all look clean (inside connector) and secure. Some people apply (the right) product there while they are cleaning/treating RF shield.

I’m just regurgitating CRS/product/solutions from the Hybrid thread that I though were sound and worth pursuing.

Good salt/rust question @ColoradoPrimeTime.
I occasionally (2 - 10 times per year) go through brushless car wash and I do spay the undercarriage. The undercarriage spray does not have a direct path to the RM connector because of the tray in the way. With the amount of road grime inside my connector, I think just driving it makes if collect dirt. Syracuse uses (some) expensive Potasium based road salt that works better and corrodes metal faster. I never got the benefit of Toyota hybrids not needing pad and rotors because of regenerative braking. The Syracuse winter salt eats up pads AND ROTORS every 3 years or 30k (big plus/minus margins on these numbers).
 
#7 ·
Syracuse uses (some) expensive Potasium based road salt that works better and corrodes metal faster. I never got the benefit of Toyota hybrids not needing pad and rotors because of regenerative braking. The Syracuse winter salt eats up pads AND ROTORS every 3 years or 30k (big plus/minus margins on these numbers).

Some might consider this a design flaw 🤔

😳. No one complains about what it's doing to the environment.
 
#6 ·
Here is the other side of the orange cover that Toyota modified/removed to let water and road-grime out of the plastic cover. R4Prime has solid (trapping) plastic on both sides of plastic cover. Perhaps because of the water ‘drain’ depression on this cover, seen above. A

Image


In looking at the pictures, unless I missed it..
they seem to be different from the Toyota modified cable shown. 🤔
 
#9 ·
So I took an hour to get out the ramps and get under my 2021 R4Prime to get a look at this corrosion problem. Then I took a couple of days to procrastinate writing it up in a post. Writing is always the more difficult part for me. When I think about it, the hour to perform the experiment went fast and was fun, and the writing is work (not fun).

I know it is sensational to talk about the expensive replacement/labor cost when it fails completely and stops the vehicle. I think it will be an easy DIY fix to clean off rust and use some conductor to complete RF shield circuit at base of connector to RM, if/when it fails. I’ll be performing preventative, rust preventing measures before this winter. This is a bad look for Toyota and they should fix it for everybody, but I think the impact is moderate (car will not run) and the DIY fix is minimal. UNLESS, you talk and believe (do your own diligence) dealership/stealership expensive solution to the problem.

So let’s keep the not-fun writing to a minimum and let the (sensational) picture do the talking.

Here is the result of 2 Syracuse NY winterings worth of road salt/grime (very sensational pics). I’m letting Toyota know about this today. Let’s see if I can get my Brand Advisor supervisior to give me a call-back to talk about this.


View attachment 186054

View attachment 186061



To the left of finger, it looks like a (new?) drain for the water to exit the orange plastic cover. Unfortunately, stuff (up to 2mm) still gets into the plastic cover and (it felt like) at lot of dust and dirt drizzled onto my head from there as I was removing the orange cover via two plastic clips. The clips were hard to disengage, but the cover eventually (partially) opened up an inch to see inside. I’ll be back in there before winter to clean RF shield up and spay rust preventer.
View attachment 186052



Here is the other side of the orange cover that Toyota modified/removed to let water and road-grime out of the plastic cover. R4Prime has solid (trapping) plastic on both sides of plastic cover. Perhaps because of the water ‘drain’ depression on this cover, seen above. Also note the elaborate (whatever it’s called) clamp where wires go into orange conduit. Does this orange conduit go longer (up into body) on R4Prime vs Hybrid/Gasser (2nd pic below)?
View attachment 186053 View attachment 186057 View attachment 186055 Click to enlarge thumbnails.



And here is an interesting picture showing connectors on the bottom AND top of the MG main EV connection. There were questions about why the connector was moved to the bottom where the water can/will? cause problems eventually. I will have to see what is plugged in on top and where the wires go.
View attachment 186056



Here is the removed tray that covers the RM. Note; It has good drainage hole locations but still collects road grime. It felt like that much road grime fell out of the orange cover and onto my face/head. Need to rent hoist time when I go back to mediate rust on RF shield.
View attachment 186058

Enjoy.
Thanks for sharing those pics and your observations.

Some of my thoughts: The braid for the shielding looks like galvanized (zinc) plated steel. Galvanized is a sacrificial coating, hence the dust you see. Not good to use in a wet environment. Much better would be stainless braid. The racing community has used stainless braided brake hoses for decades; I put stainless braided brake hoses on my Porsche 45 years ago and they show zero corrosion/deterioration even when exposed to the worst of Utah winters with salted roads. That should be the fix for that part, if only Toyota would do that.

I would think Toyota could do better on the housings so that road debris, moisture, and salt never can get in. They have used environmental (water proof) connectors for years and years, so why they can't water proof the entire wiring system on the hybrids is beyond me.

Just my thoughts.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Thanks for sharing those pics and your observations.

Some of my thoughts: The braid for the shielding looks like galvanized (zinc) plated steel. Galvanized is a sacrificial coating, hence the dust you see. Not good to use in a wet environment. Much better would be stainless braid. The racing community has used stainless braided brake hoses for decades; I put stainless braided brake hoses on my Porsche 45 years ago and they show zero corrosion/deterioration even when exposed to the worst of Utah winters with salted roads. That should be the fix for that part, if only Toyota would do that.

I would think Toyota could do better on the housings so that road debris, moisture, and salt never can get in. They have used environmental (water proof) connectors for years and years, so why they can't water proof the entire wiring system on the hybrids is beyond me.

Just my thoughts.
If the cause is contact with aluminum or another dissimilar metal, stainless steel may not be a good choice. While stainless is relatively resistant to oxidation and other corrosion in isolation, it is still susceptible to galvanic corrosion. If the braid is a shield for RF or capacitive EMI, then it must make electrical contact on at least one end. That makes galvanic action a concern, especially in an automotive environment. Steel and aluminum are relatively strong, lightweight and inexpensive compared to better conductors. Unfortunately, while using them has many advantages, this is what happens when you don't use them correctly as conductors.

It would be interesting to know the composition of the metals involved and whether the newer part also has updated metals or plating. For all we know, the original parts were plated incorrectly or used the wrong alloys or fasteners or a supplier sent them faulty parts not to spec. Or the design may have been poor. Either way, it seems like better drainage in the updated plastic housing would only be one part of a solution to a galvanic issue. Since it is still exposed to water, I'd think they also had to make a change somewhere in the metals, alloys or plating as well. It may be unlikely they eliminate this type of corrosion, but quite possible to reduce it to make the part last the life of the vehicle.

This is my assembly after 10K miles including one Chicago salty winter. Mine was made 4/2021 so after the first part change supposedly in 3/2021 according to a post in the R4P subreddit. I did not remove the black plastic undercarriage shield, so this is about the best shot I could get by sticking my phone in there.


Preview of gallery image.
 
#10 ·
Thank you for sharing @FKHeath.

Do you think you could attach some stainless braid to bridge over corroded RF braid (after clean-up and anti rust)?

I was thinking after corrosion break, but you could do this ‘bridge’ now and not have to care ever (until rust works up above ‘bridge’ attachment).
 
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#11 ·
#13 ·
^I know, I know. I’m reminded that Toyota Brand Ambassadors are payed to listen, document (case #), and say things to make you go away. BUT they have access to the only entity that CAN make a change that makes my R4Prime (BVIEO) even better -> Toyota Corp.

I have a good relationship with a supervisor and she calls me back and listens. I’m still hoping she/Toyota can fix it or tell me why the Toyota App is so bad for the R4Prime. I’ll see if she can share anything about RM cable corrosion fix (probably not).
 
#16 ·
I see the WeberAuto video (23:40) looking at powered circuits. I have not seen any evidence that orange cables carrying 3 phase current to MGs is corroding. I think it is just detecting the RF shield status and shutting down when disconnect/break is detected.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I see the WeberAuto video (23:40) looking at powered circuits. I have not seen any evidence that orange cables carrying 3 phase current to MGs is corroding.

I think it is just detecting the RF shield status and shutting down when disconnect/break is detected.
What would the logic of that be 🤔

The RF interference, a possible sign of cable corrosion, which is what they check for.. It's not a safety issue.

"14:41 How the car performs active isolation testing and passive isolation testing "

"27:35 MUST-SEE: See the results of a conductive liquid connection to vehicle chassis "


He mentions the checks and what it takes to trigger a fault. Some of the testing done prior to "on" may trigger a system alert but not a "fault" that would. alert the driver or prevent the car from starting depending on the level of fault triggered.

It's checking for resistance, once a threshold is met, it triggers an alert, or prevents the system from starting.


"Introduction:
Some 2019 – 2021 model year RAV4 Hybrid vehicles may exhibit a MIL ON condition with one or both of the following Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored:

  • P0AA649 (Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation Internal Electronic Failure)

  • P1C8049 (Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation [Rear Motor Area] Internal Electronic Failure)

The vehicle may also exhibit static or distortion when listening to AM radio.

These conditions may be caused by corrosion on the high-voltage wire harness below the vehicle at connector Y6 at Motor Generator Rear (MGR) or dirt and debris inside the connector. Follow the Repair Procedure in this bulletin to address these conditions.
Repair Procedure:1. Confirm the condition exists.
A. Using Techstream, run a Health Check and confirm one or both of the following DTCs are present: * P0AA649 (Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation Internal Electronic Failure).
* P1C8049 (Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation [Rear Motor Area] Internal Electronic Failure).
Are either or both DTCs listed above present or is there AM radio static/distortion?

YES — Continue to substep B.

NO — This bulletin does NOT apply. Continue diagnosis using the applicable Repair Manual."





Image




From an 08 Lexes...

"Yesterday, I was told that the Service tech said that it can't be "fixed."

He goes on to say that this is how it looks, even on a brand new vehicle, and that it's not a safety issue. He goes on to say that the metal holder that has corroded/oxidized will not corrode further or look differently years from now."


It would seem like this problem has been around for awhile, not being a "safety" issue among other things
wasn't addressed at the time...or didn't affect enough vehicles.

What's happening now seems different, they have made a change.
According to some its interim until the final design
 
#17 ·
Don't be surprised when Toyota issues a TSB to reprogram the system to reduce or eliminate the RF shield status shutdown. Would this harm anything other than the possible stray RF signal in the environment.

Oh wait, system shutdown due to unlocking the doors from a distance. I would hope that it would need to be more than that.

Or is it the other way around. Is the shielding protecting the environment from what is coming from this cable?
 
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#18 ·
Is the shielding protecting the environment from what is coming from this cable?
Yes. There are limits, imposed by FCC, of how much EMI a device can "spill" outside. Those cables carry high currents, high frequency switching... so yeah, their RF noise needs to be contained.
Otherwise you would block all the cellphones and radios around you.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thank you for sharing. The braided wire looks better than I would have expected for Syracuse but the clamp/collar looks like it will turn into dust in a year or two. Remember, the Car Care Nut said the Prime is not part of this but from your pics, it should be. I'd like to see some pics in a year or two of the open design and if it really makes a difference.

These cables never look pristine in salt areas. We all know Toyota's current policy so unless you're going to mess around with the cable, I don't see the point anymore in checking.
 
#24 ·
Just leave it, the braided wire you see is just the outer ground/noise shield that does not carry the power.
No need to worry unless your hybrid system stops working. Haven't heard of this happening yet.
maseace is offline

It is interesting reading, old postings 🤔
 
#28 ·
Has anyone removed the connector and apply CRC in their Prime? There are a couple people in RavH group who have done it to their Rav4H. The steps are simple enough, but I found that the "Service Plug" location in Prime is different than the one in Rav4H, and I am hesitated a bit to move on.

If anyone has done please chime in. 🙏
 
#32 ·
Here is a link to a Facebook group regarding the RMG cable rust issue. Many of the posts are in French but translate works pretty well.

[0]=AZUXxuuUcMWU4yc8Sncih0ZnrtKiBkuJx3Gs29LthuFDigzrmKByelOG41AJpV5t5Pcj31_CJz_1jJq6fmxZEAfxXMRZ6cu8K_dhA9jdl33w8Nd-kEruG-h3olZmX0c2QG1psUPiwuB_Q2k_b_SJSZiG1OIi6t7k5cyy5knj4aL6RGuKkqUmH0glOZme5o65qR-xkWLzGliP5zucvR3yf474&__tn=-UC%2CP-R

In Quebec where they have lots of snow and salt the roads the 2019-2022 RAV4 hybrid and Prime are having issues. Sounds like more than a few people have had to pay to replace the cable at $6000! This group is urging Toyota to extend the warranty for the the cable from 3 years to 8 or 10.

As previously mentioned you can test your Prime by turning on the AM radio and shifting from Park to D or R. If the radio gets static when shifted then Toyota will conduct an inspection of the car's cable.
 
#33 ·
THanks for the great write-up and photos.

I'm curious - which preventative are you considering. From the other post, it appears to be a competition between the cosmoline-like CRC or the ACF-50, which is more like a penetrating oil. Also - please do keep us updated regarding any feedback you may receive from Toyota.

Thank you again!!
 
#34 ·
#36 ·
It is interesting in the above article the speculation of the actual cost of the cable. There is an entire aftermarket industry that specializes in making non OEM replacement parts that cost far less than OEM and claim to be functionally equivalent. Toyota has been running ads dumping on independent repairs and encouraging traffic to their service department. I would not be surprised that if this is ongoing issue that if Toyota elects not to do a campaign, that a replacement cable made by a non OEM group will pop up and that independent third parties will be glad to install if undercutting Toyota. No doubt give it few months and You Tube videos will pop up.

Lawyers are always looking for potential class action cases and this seems to be right up their alley.
 
#38 ·
The aftermarket fix is probably going to be a jumper for the sensor connection that closes the circuit and clears the code, or some kind of clamp connection that reestablishes ground to the shroud. The factory fix of replacing the entire wire assembly for a shield is about as crazy as replacing the whole engine because the ground strap went bad. If Toyota ends up paying for enough of this they’ll engineer a retrofit that salvages the expensive harness and just fixes the shielding wire. My guess anyway.