Welcome to the forum, and sorry to hear of your troubles.

As you have replaced both sensors with good quality OEM/OE parts (and well done with that, a very good move), the trouble is somewhere else.

Do you have the original codes that were set? This may give us some direction to help you. The problem we have at the moment, is that it could be one of many things. Yes it could have been the sensor or heater, but it could be a circuit code. It could be lean or rich codes, could be a misfire/mis fuel - the list goes on.

As the light is on, may I suggest you buy an OBD2 reader - one that can read codes, but also show some live data - we can probably help then. A reader around 50 euros will probably do the trick. If you get the codes, please let us know, and we can help.

 

Thanks a lot Bigphill! I set an appointment in another shop for monday, but i will also get an OBD2 as you recommended. Will give you guys feedback. I apreciate your answer.

 

Good morning! I already ordered an OBD2 reader. The Autel Autolink AL319. Let's see how it works. Very good revieuws.

Giving feedback in a couple days!. Have a nice week all.

 

Look forward to seeing the results

 

Hi again! Im back with some codes. By the way, the autel works amazing.
Error codes:

P0420
Catalyst System
Efficiency below threshol
Bank 1

P0430
Catalyst System
Efficiency below threshol
Bank 2

New sensors that the shop installed:

bosch 1 st/pc
LS 31687
0 258 986 687
-760

(both of them are the same sensor)

im not a pro guy but for some reason i think the problem is with new sensors.
Thanks in advance

 

Those codes most certainly help, but what ever you do, until we have worked out the exact problem, hold fire on the parts canon (cats are not cheap!!!!!)

Can you get hold of live data from your scanner - I will try to look too. I would need to see the upstream and downstream O2 readings when the car is in fuel control (closed loop).

Can you also post short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim for both banks at idle (700 rpm), and 2500 rpm please - this will be a good start

 

In your scanner it is called live PCM datastream

 

Thanks for help. I apreciate it. Doing it asap

 

Well i think the figures were in range (i think) i tested in the autel, pressed all the butons and saw live data. Sensors were around 1,000

 

Live data 700 rpm:

 

Live data 2500 rpm:

 

Some good data from your scan tool, and thank you for posting those images.

At idle, both of your air fuel ratios at around 3.2V means the ECU is in good control. You are running rich slightly, as the ECU is removing circa 7.0%. At 2500rpm, this reduces to circa 3% being removed.

Both of the rear sensors are at 0.64 to 0.74 - again slightly rich but not really a problem. So, if they are genuine Bosch, they are alive and talking as best I can tell.

One to note from the figures is that your MAF seems to be reading low - suggest you use the proper MAF cleaner and give the wire a decent spritz. If you look at the wire (do not touch it) does it look dull and dirty, or shiney? it needs to be clean.

If the ECU is thinking under on the air flow it will remove fuel.

Also, over a 2 minute period, again in fuel control, can you tell me the maximum and minimum readings of both sensor 2's please.

I am going to be partially offline over the next week, so it may take a little time for me to answer - I will get there tho

 

Some good data from your scan tool, and thank you for posting those images.

At idle, both of your air fuel ratios at around 3.2V means the ECU is in good control. You are running rich slightly, as the ECU is removing circa 7.0%. At 2500rpm, this reduces to circa 3% being removed.

Both of the rear sensors are at 0.64 to 0.74 - again slightly rich but not really a problem. So, if they are genuine Bosch, they are alive and talking as best I can tell.

One to note from the figures is that your MAF seems to be reading low - suggest you use the proper MAF cleaner and give the wire a decent spritz. If you look at the wire (do not touch it) does it look dull and dirty, or shiney? it needs to be clean.

If the ECU is thinking under on the air flow it will remove fuel.

Also, over a 2 minute period, again in fuel control, can you tell me the maximum and minimum readings of both sensor 2's please.

I am going to be partially offline over the next week, so it may take a little time for me to answer - I will get there tho

Thanks a lot Bigphil!!😍 No worries about answering buddy…. Im very thankful even if it takes you 2 weeks.
Theres a part that i dont understand… maybe because language:

“Also, over a 2 minute period, again in fuel control, can you tell me the maximum and minimum readings of both sensor 2's please.”

what does “fuel control” and “closed loop” means??? I will try to send what you are asking me.

Also i read in the forum about MAF and im ordering today the cleaner.

 

 

Apologies for using the strange terms, let me try another way

On your scanner, start the engine. The scanner has data called fuelsys A and B. In OL (open loop) the ECU is using default settings to warm up the engine. For full control, the ECU needs to be in fuel control and this is called closed loop (CL) - one of you pictures shows this.

What I am looking for is to see if the down stream sensors are alive and talking to the ECU when the car is in closed loop. When fuelsys says CL can you look at the voltage reading of both sensor 2's over say a 2 minute time scale. If they are reasonably stable, then your cats are good. If they are oscillating, potentially your cats are not doing their job.

After 2 minutes, can you very briefly rev the engine to 5000rpm (less than a second), and then return to idle. Can you tell me if the voltages on the rear sensors vary between 0.1v and 0.9v? This will determine of the sensors are working ok, and are not lazy.

Hope this is better for you my friend. If not, no worries, happy to keep explaining for you

 

Just looked at your introduction, and it is a sweet looking Rav.

Could you look at the exhaust please. As you have both bank 1 and bank 2 on your 2.0 engine, you have one of the special engines that have 4 sensors (2 upstream and 2 downstream) - please could you confirm there are 4 O2 sensors (and not 2) - it is just to ensure we are looking at the right specs and wiring diagrams

 

It has 4, 2 before Cat and 2 after Cat. no needed to check again. 100% sure.

Thanks Bigphil for the help, the explanation and for the compliments.

I will also also check soon what you posted before. Your help is priceless.

 

You are lucky my friend to have that engine in there - well worth looking after and getting back up to specification.

As we are (at the present) dealing with rich running (ie too much fuel or not enough metered air), can you look at the engine air filter too - if it is dirty/dusty it will need replacing too.

We need to give this engine the best chance we can to run sweet

 

Just to check, with the service items you have replaced (and well done on going for the maintenance) did you use OE/OEM parts - our Ravs are fussy and can not cope with copy parts. Again, just a check BTW

 

Morning! I had no time to make the last test u recommended me but have Some feedback.

after i cleared the error codes, I could drive the car during weekend almost 80 miles before the light came on again.

I also bought a MAF cleaner and a fuel system cleaner (just in case).

I will be able to check the procedure and make MAF cleaning on friday I guess, which is day off here.

feedback soon.

have a good day!!!!

 

Good news on the extra distance of travel.

Fingers crossed on the MAF clean. Usually, you give it several really good washes with the cleaner and then let it evaporate/dry naturally - do not touch the element at all.

After it has dried, please can you post the MAF readings at idle and at say 2500 rpm - need to see if we have an improvement

 

thanks. I will do it this way and yes, fingers crossed on maf 🤣🤣🤣

 

Hi! Posting feedback:
I already did the MAF cleaning. Its easier than changing a flat tyre. I just unpluged 4 bolts (2 air filter carcas and 2 smaller ones in MAF sensor).
Air filter is OK as you guys can see (in fact it was new)
I bought the Liqui Moly cleaner and used whole can to clean the MAF. Im surprised that the sensor has that petroleum looking “drop”. Is that OK?

I will put it back tomorrow morning. I let you some photos here.

cheers guys

 

 

 

MAF cleaned (i cleaned more in the outside after i pic the photo)

 

Well done on that work - the wire I can see is so much cleaner. I think the wire and the drop on the end could be the temp sensor - is the connector a 5 wire connector? if so there are both wires in there.

Is there a wire inside the end of the circular tube too - just checking to be sure

The MAF readings should work immediately, so either hot or cold will do

 

yes, i could see something thin and metalic at the end of circular tube. Unfortunatelly i forgot my glasses. Posting results tomorrow. What you think about the sensor? Im not professional but looks like it was dirt as ********isnt it?

 

Well done with the cleaning, it was well cruddy as you say. Please can you ensure the thin metal is clean too - again with MAF sensor cleaner using the process above - do not touch it.

With those so cruddy, the readings will be way off, and there is simply no way the poor ECU could get your engine to run sweet.

What we must bear in mind, is that there may be multiple things wrong (not saying there is, but we need to think). if we clearly identify an issue, we must correct it (MAF/IAT in this case), then verify if we have solved it, or continue to chase. This is exactly the process I am going through with another fellow member

We will get there