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B1794 - Toyota Tech Useless *REPAIRED*

8.3K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  FKHeath  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello y'all,

From Canada and I have a 2011 rav4 base model. So the passenger seatbelt light and airbag off light have been lit up for most of the 2 years that I have had the vehicle (2nd owner). About 6 weeks ago, my battery died during a cold snap and it was dead for about a week at which point CAA came, determined it had 10% capacity, and replaced new. The airbag light has been on since the battery died...I think. I never really took note though unfortunately as I assumed it was related to the other lights.

Well now I need an Ontario safety inspection done and I can't pass with it on. Took it to Toyota dealership where the tech informed me the passenger seat is locked in at measuring 60lbs weight. He was completely useless and I have since written to the service manager requesting a review for his uselessness. The tech told me that he had no idea what the issue was but that a B1794 code came up and he tried to delete it multiple times but its hardwired in. He said it could be the floor wires or the occupant ECU but couldn't be sure so it'd be a gamble replacing either. Quoted me over $5,500 for the floor wires (which are backordered anyways) and $1,100 for the occupant ECU replacement. I talked him into telling me what he would do if it was his car and he said check all wires with OHMS meter and fix the wire with tape. I will also add that I asked the Toyota tech to try recalibrating the seat sensors and he supposedly did/tried. Though I now doubt those efforts since I have learned how little he actually did.

So I did a ton of research and here's what I have ruled out as issues:
  • all wiring under passenger seat measures clear for OHMS and continuity
  • replaced passenger seat belt buckle to rule out sensor issue - lights unchanged
  • Toyota parts guy felt bad for me and the lack of help the tech was so he sold me the occupant ECU to plug in and see if the seatbelt and airbag off light would turn off (as the forums said it should and the SRS light will then turn off once reprogramming complete, but correct me if this is wrong). Occupant ECU replaced, lights unchanged so returned. My original and current occupant ECU potentially has some bad solder joints but no visible water damage, etc..
  • all fuses assessed and replaced if needed --> the fuse boxes were a disaster when I began this with fuses missing and some with lower values than required. None blown though.
  • all wiring in center console measured clear on OHMS and continuity. Corrosion seen on e-brake so I cleaned and replaced tip. No visible marks or damage to main ECU from overhead position.

Side symptoms, potentially connected:
  • radio system becomes static-y when vehicle idles (this is new development, might be a fuse issue)
  • all fuses in the interior fuse box had burned posts but not broken fuses - all measured clear with OHMS meter, but I replaced the worst of them anyways and all 7.5A fuses as those seemed to be central to the SRS systems. The new 7.5A fuses are now burned again. All fuses in drivers hood box had no burns. A couple in passenger had burns (I believe but I didn't make note as this was before I realized it would become what it has. I replaced the one or two burned ones).
  • after disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and reconnecting it, my engine starts then dies, then re-starts fine. This is new.

Vehicle Facts:
  • car fax was clear of accidents when I purchased from a GoAuto Ford dealership 2 years ago
  • the passenger seatbelt has always been twisted severely though and there are tiny screwdriver marks on the dash showing someone tried (poorly) to pop off the radio face plate.
  • there are after-market seat heaters installed (tech checked and both are hooked up to power outlets) but the driver's side shorted in the fall after a rain storm (I discovered the button broken and burned wire end on connection point). Passenger side works fine.
  • tow light wiring installed last summer for my move, towed a small u-haul, from Alberta to Ontario (made sure Uhaul was balanced entire way - no issues)


Because it is an SRS system issue I have had a terrible time finding a mechanic to look at it and I am not going to replace all the flooring wires as my gut says it is not necessary. Plus they are back ordered and I have 6 days remaining on my temporary registration. My gut says it's still something to do with the fuses and that the random issues with the interior fuse system is related.

Could this all be related to a loose ground wire? Or is there something else I am missing?

My current next steps are:
1. to deconstruct the dash console to check the ground wires there
2. fix the passenger seat belt and check for tampering by removing the paneling there
3. then checking the ground wire and connections in the passenger side kick panel/door area
4. then purchase a test light to check the circuit of the fuses from battery through the hood to the ECU-B fuse and short pin.

Do you think I'm on the right track or am I missing something?
 
#4 ·
Not sure how to edit, so I will also add that I asked the Toyota tech to try recalibrating the seat sensors and he supposedly did/tried. Though I now doubt those efforts since I have learned how little he actually did.
If it's just for a vehicle inspection, why don't you just pull the little LED out or unplug it so that the light isn't on when they inspect your car.

I don't know how it works in Ontario but in BC any licensed mechanic that's registered to do inspections is able to take a look at your car. Give the guy 500 bucks to pass you money. Well spent
 
#3 ·
Having looked at the wiring diagram, I think you are on the right track - to me, it is either an open or short to ground or green crusties on the circuit somewhere.

Common to the ECU and the radio for example, are the J/B's on the LHS of dash and the footwell. I would go and look through there, especially as you have reported some fuse post damage.

Let us know what you find
 
#5 ·
So after reading some other forum posts regarding wiring issues I learned that rav4's with sunroofs have a drainage issue that can cause corrosion of wires in the passenger kick panel so I started there and sure enough the bottom connector, "EL3" on the wiring diagrams, had significant corrosion within it. No other plugs showed damage and there was no visible damage or markings of any sort around the connectors but that lone connector was covered in green/blue.

I repaired the connections with new connectors today, disconnected the negative battery terminal, and sure enough...all three lights are out!! I also re-checked all fuses just to be sure before starting up and none were broken.

I think I'm going to spend the money to replace all the burned/marked up fuses though, even though they still measure clear, just so I can have a better grasp on what's going on electrically for the future. Is that worth the time and money? Those little micro mini fuses are not cheap.