There are plenty of grounded bolts around the fuse box with the jump terminal that should work fine. "Jumping" a hybrid doesn't require the massive amp draw that traditional cars need, you only need enough power to start the computer which closes the relay to the big traction battery. That battery should always have enough juice to finish starting systems and get you going. Remember to follow proper red/black attach/detach procedure.

 

That's understandable but it is recommended to use the ground on the engine to avoid ecu damage. CarCareNut mentioned it as well. Don't feel like taking chances with that...

 

I've used the Hulkman Alpha85, worked fine using one of the strut tower studs for a ground point.

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Did you even try to reach the ground point on the engine before you used strut tower?

 

You could get a short length of heav gauge copper wire and some alligator clips and make your own extenstion for the jump start battery pack? Just be careful to keep the clip to clip negative connection shielded while it is draped across the engine bay. As others have said, this isn't a big heavy draw so I bet 4-8 gauge at 3 feet would be plenty safe (someone correct me here, I'm just pulling this gauge out of my... internet addled head...).

 

Here's a previous discussion on recommendation for jump pack and considerations for cold weather jumping.

Boosting (jump starting) precaution

Not sure if this was posted before but always a good reminder.

www.rav4world.com

 

The NOCO Boost Pro GB150 3000 Amp 12-Volt has 48" distance to reach the negative ground.

 

I see, need to go with bigger Amps in order to get longer cables. Thanks.

 

Bought myself a NOCO and a pigtail adapter which I attached directly to the 12 volt battery in the back of the car. It just sits there waiting for the time that a jump is needed from the NOCO.

 

How do you open the rear hatch with a dead battery? Climb into the back from the rear door?

 

I have manually released the door before...once. That process is what prompted me to install a voltage access above the floor, as trying to work inside that door latch panel is incredibly awkward when it's on the same level as the floor. Some system was intercepting all power delivered from the hood jump point so I had no other option than to work my way to the rear 12v, and knowing that I'll never have to do it again that way makes the 30 minutes and 8 inches of wire well worth it.

Having a hot power tap in the rear is also great for my air compressor, and whatever else we can dream up that needs juice, so it serves more than one purpose.