Turtle Wax Pro Graphene Flex Wax works well for me in the PNW. Water sheets off the hood for most of the winter and does not leave any marks or road grime on the hood and the majority of the RAV4 body. The car always looks reasonably presentable and not horribly filthy. The trouble areas are the top of the bumper under the rear hatch and the back cargo door in general. Also the plastic trim under the side doors. Those areas will always pick up road grime after driving in the rain. It is not practical to do frequent hand and bucket washes in the PNW during the winter to remove road grime because the very next time I drive it just gets dirty again and it's also too cold.

 

You are not going to find a wax, coating or sealant where the weather will just run off instead of beading up. If water is just running off in the weather they have zero protection on their vehicle. Water beading is actually a sign of good protection. When rinsing your car there is a method that makes drying a vehicle easier called the sheeting method. You can Google it. But you have to have some sort of protection on your vehicle for it to work. Winter months I just just spray the car off with regular water on a drier day at the car wash. Drive home and do a Rinseless Wash in the garage.

I personally prefer to wax my car every six months by stripping it down and reapplying as opposed to a coating. Having a coating still requires maintenance. I just recently stripped my car after having a coating on it for 3 years. It was a lot of work. Far more IMO than if I had just done it every six months. And I have a lot of detailing supplies. Including 5 different polishers. A couple in the $400-$600 range.

 

Yea I'm also not aware of any where water just runs off, I think it would be hard to do that w/o the water beading first.
But Meguiar's M27 ceramic sealant works great and can be applied even in direct sunlight. Lasts 6 months and can be topped w/ Meguiar's hybrid ceramic wax and maintained w/ Meguiar's M799 Bead Booster. It's very easy to clean dirt, bird droppings, bugs, etc. with the sealant applied.

 

Autozone had some waxes on sale or clearance. I grab a couple bottles of 303 Graphene Nano Spray coating and the 303 Graphene detailer for a song. They also had various ChemicalGuys, Adams, BlackMagic, ArmorAll, Turtlewax, Meguiars, Formula1 ... on clearance/sale too.

If the rain drys on the car, whatever is there will be there. So, when the weather report says the rain is gone and you've seen the rain stop, dry the car off.

Hood looks dirty after the rain isn't an issue. The only solution to your problem is the garage/carport.

 

You are not going to find a wax, coating or sealant where the weather will just run off instead of beading up. If water is just running off in the weather they have zero protection on their vehicle.

Yea I'm also not aware of any where water just runs off, I think it would be hard to do that w/o the water beading first.

The TW Pro Graphene Flex Wax DOES cause the water to just run off or sheet off any sloping or curved surface on the RAV4. Of course any water that does not sheet off makes uniform geometric beads.

 

That is basically the sheeting method in the video. Although he sprayed it at a much heavier volume of water. That is no different result than you would get with anything else that was just applied. It isn't going to run off in sheets in inclement weather however and get the results the OP is looking for. I very rarely use the sheeting method to dry being I have other tools.

I don't buy any of my detailing products over the counter. They are all bought from online detailing websites. Everybody is going to have different opinions as to what is best. That is for the user to decide. There is a whole prep process to get lasting stellar results.

 

I’ve used Turtlewax Ceramic Spray, and To The Max liquid wax, they both seem to work very well. Only complication is that they need to stay dry for 24 hours to cure. The Ceramic Spray works on black plastic trim too.

 

That's why I prefer the TW Graphene Flex Wax. It does not require any drying time. There are three ways to use it--that's why it's called Flex Wax. The simplest is to just spray it on each panel when STILL wet from rinsing off the wash soap and then drying the panel. Second is to rinse off the soap do a preliminary wipe dry and then spray on the graphene and buff. Third is to wash, dry completely and then spray on the graphene and buff--then let cure overnight and hit it with a second coat. I only do the third double graphene just before winter and again in the spring. In between I just do the spritz while wet.

 

I have my own system for was and wax. I have tried many products and have settled on the Turtle Wax one of precuts. I have used the Flex Wax and have good results. The steps to get a good last shine and protection starts with the prep.

A good through wash and rinse. I have my system of using a clean 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of distilled water and the recommend amount of Optimum No Rinse Wash. I have a dedicated microfiber wash mitt that lives in the bucket. I wash dry the car in the garage. Uses very little water.

If I am going to wax the car I then uses a Clay mitt with ONR as the lube to remove as much embedded contaminants as possible, rinse and dry using multiple HUCK towels (Blue Surgical Towels) 100% cotton. Not microfiber. Then I spray each panel with 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol and wipe again this removes old wax and other products. Mine still looks great so not paint correction with a polisher.

Next is the wax I have tried many different waxes and sealers over the years but have settled on the Turtle Wax products. I start with the Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray coating applied as directed. One coat and then let it set for 24 hours and apply a second coat. let set for 24 hours. Then I apply the Hybrid solutions Flex Wax. let sit for 24 hours. Can apply a second coat if you want. If not then I apply the Pure Shine coating to the whole car including the glass.

Good news I have some new products from Turtle Wax that are exclusive to WalMart. They are similar to the TW Hybrid Solutions Pro line but cheaper I have tried the Slick Glass 2in1 glass cleaner and polish, Slick Shine Quick Detailer. The Minute Wax that can be used Dry wet or rinse as a quick one on the wife's hood of her XSE.

I am impressed with them and they are the same size as the Hybrid Solutions Pro but cheaper. They all list having the Ceramic protection but not the Graphene of the Hybrid Solutions Pro line.

BTW I am not getting paid or any gifts from anybody and I have bought the products out of my own pocket.

 

Gotta disagree on the Turtle wax Flex product spritz while wet. On a dark car unless dried properly and buffed each use, I get streaks...the protection is there, but the trade off is streaks.
I have found, for my longest lasting beading here is what works for me on a light colored car or dark car.
Turtle wax Hybrid solutions Ceramic spray, two coats w drying in between, buff w lambs wool buffer, then Mequiars Ultimate liquid wax. Final lambs wool buffer . Lasts the longest I have used , the cars are parked outside..... your mileage may vary.
IF your goal is just protection for a couple of weeks the quick sprits w Flex and dry off is good, but, the appearance on a dark color is the drawback...at least for my use

After reading several posts after mine, the consensus seems to be Turtle wax products work well. I use a mechanical buffer to get the best results. I also have an old beater Toyota vehicle which is white and I dont bother buffing, but know its protected well enough for being left outside.

 

Use the TW Ceramic spray then use the Hybrid Pure Shine two coats on the whole car exterior including exterior glass. For the slickest glossy finish.

for the quick wipe of dust the TW Slick Shine Quick Detailer from WalMart. Really impress the wife and or girlfriend with a real shiny RAV4.

 

all the trash in the air near me.
it is hard to get a super clean car.
we get acid rain here and chemical junk out of the air.

 

TrueTexan
Not a bad idea. So, would you need to drag a multi gallon container w hoses around the vehicle while you try to displace the city hose bib water? And, how many gallons would that be? And, if your source is a Reverse Osmosis unit, will that truly leave no water spots.... maybe someone can comment on this one ?

 

Very slight decline...and a large squeegee and drains a couple feet outside the doors. I still buy fuel so I get to use the squeegee!

 

I use a one bucket with a grit guard and distilled water with ONR. Wash using a microfiber mitt. then dry with another Microfiber. Don't need to rinse and I can apply a wax or a topper without a problem.

 

Nu Finish NFP-80 paste is top rated by Consumer Reports followed by Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 then Nu Finish NF-76 liquid. The Nu Finish products have the best durability ratings at 5/5 and 4/5 respectively. The Meguiars has only a 2/5 durability rating. I've been using Nu Finish products for years. Twice yearly applications are all that's needed.

 

My car is ceramic coated, and I have the same issue. Here is my conclusion. Water runs off of the rest of the car since all other panels besides the hood are not horizontal, but at an angle. I don’t know what’s happening on the roof since the car is much taller than I am. Since the hood is more or less flat, the water beads rather than runs off. Only suggestion I can make is if your car is garage kept, have a leaf blower handy to blow the water off.

 

Nu Finish NFP-80 paste is top rated by Consumer Reports followed by Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 then Nu Finish NF-76 liquid. The Nu Finish products have the best durability ratings at 5/5 and 4/5 respectively. The Meguiars has only a 2/5 durability rating. I've been using Nu Finish products for years. Twice yearly applications are all that's needed.

That may be the case for over the counter products. I have read that it smells bad, stains trim and dusts. Some have even said it is difficult to buff off. It may be just fine for the average consumer. I won't use it personally.

My car is ceramic coated, and I have the same issue. Here is my conclusion. Water runs off of the rest of the car since all other panels besides the hood are not horizontal, but at an angle. I don’t know what’s happening on the roof since the car is much taller than I am. Since the hood is more or less flat, the water beads rather than runs off. Only suggestion I can make is if your car is garage kept, have a leaf blower handy to blow the water off.

Don't use a leaf blower unless it is dedicated exclusively to your car and not yard work. You're blowing all that junk all over your car. I use a car dryer that filters the air and heats it 30 degrees over ambient.

The OP isn't going to find anything where the water and dirt is all going to roll off. It is just the nature of the beast. There is a whole science to proper car washing.

 

That may be the case for over the counter products. I have read that it smells bad, stains trim and dusts. Some have even said it is difficult to buff off. It may be just fine for the average consumer. I won't use it personally.

I used it years ago. It was a chore (compared to stuff used today) and I remember you missed and got it on trim...tough luck to ya!

Don't use a leaf blower unless it is dedicated exclusively to your car and not yard work. You're blowing all that junk all over your car. I use a car dryer that filters the air and heats it 30 degrees over ambient.

The OP isn't going to find anything where the water and dirt is all going to roll off. It is just the nature of the beast. There is a whole science to proper car washing.

What does the added temp do, just enhance evaporation? I use a cheap Harbor Freight blower and thats is sole job. That and the SiO2 stuff I use makes water removal easy peasy. But again, like several have stated before, prep prep prep makes it all "easy" on the day to day upkeep.

 

What does the added temp do, just enhance evaporation? I use a cheap Harbor Freight blower and thats is sole job. That and the SiO2 stuff I use makes water removal easy peasy. But again, like several have stated before, prep prep prep makes it all "easy" on the day to day upkeep.

Yes, it just makes the water dissipate quicker. If it is 60 degrees outside it supposedly heats the air to 90 degrees as an example. I have never actually measured the temperature. That is just what is advertised in the product description. It was a tool that I had a hard time buying being it is expensive. After I bought it I wondered why I waited so long.

 

I admire the dedication to keeping the RAV4’s in the best condition possible. On the other hand, I just drive through the local scratch and shine carwash near the house!!

 

I find it relaxing to do the work. No brain power required. Plus once you get it all pointed the same direction its easier to deal with. Plus nothing makes you smile when you see a freshly completed car and its just so glassy (I use SiO2 stuff; not ceramic due to the bird issues around me).

 

SiO2 is Silicon Dioxide the same thing as the protective ingredient in the ceramic coating. The difference is in the other chemicals used to adhere the SiO2 to the surface of the car.
True Ceramic coatings use a solvent base to apply so the protection last longer. The spray on SiO2 is a water base that has a shorter life span.

Here's where there is more information. Ceramic vs SiO2

As the video point out the spray does about the same as the expert applied coating if you follow the directions but doesn't last as long. For people like the Colonel and myself this isn't a problem as we both enjoy working to keep our RAVs clean and shiny.

 

SiO2 is Silicon Dioxide the same thing as the protective ingredient in the ceramic coating.

It is also common, ordinary, beach sand. Also it is what window glass is made from.

 

On a forum like this, the "best" anything is the item you use and you say "that's the best xyz I ever used".

 

I've been using the Nu Finish products for years. They don't smell. They are not for textured surfaces. No wax will work on a textured surface as the was has to dry to harden to protect it so the residue is difficult to remove. I suppose you can use a brush. Wiping the excess from smooth surfaces is easy.

 

No wax will work on a rough surface as the was has to dry to harden to protect it so the residue is difficult to remove

I think it depends on what is "rough". Much of the finish panels on the RAV4 are textured, certainly not smooth like the painted surfaces. I have used this on them and, yes, you do need to remove any excess with a soft cloth: https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Colour-Magic-Polish/dp/B06Y6MDFJZ?th=1

Where all this "colored wax" products got started was years (decades) ago when many cars had vinyl tops (remember those). The vinyl tops would discolor in the sun and could only be made to look nice with "colored wax". It came in a flat can and looked like black shoe polish. True wax does not harden or dry; only the "vehicle" used to keep them soft in the can will evaporate.

I still have to use something on my Porsche from time to time. The roll bar is vinyl, but the top (removable) is just heavily textured (pebble) fiber glass. I use the Color Magic to keep it looking good.

I also use Color Magic on the slightly textured bumper strips which are just rubber.

 

All the various Turtle Wax sprays (Pro Graphene, spray ceramic, Seal&Shine, old regular spray wax ) can be used on all the rough textured plastic trim on the LE, XLE sub models of RAV4. You just spray the bumpers and trim and wipe it around and buff it with a microfiber towel. The TW sprays don't leave a white residue in depressions in the trim surface. They keep that trim from color bleaching.

 

Shows very good what the scratch and clean car washes can do. I know we have all seen the cars on the road that have the paint worn off in spots from those car washes.