[Elle_Rav4]

From experience with bad starts when hot, and especially if the problem worsens, the first thing I would check is the igniter. Then relays (which also can be persnickety after warm-up). Here is the igniter location:

Also I would check the battery's voltage first thing in the morning, before starting, and compare this to the voltage when the Rav4 fails to start. Check the negative terminal's connection to the Rav4's body. Is the bolt snug? Is the connection point clean? Check both battery cables and clean and snug up as needed.

This is a 1996 or 1997 Rav4, correct? Is it auto or manual transmission? All wheel drive or front wheel drive? Maybe put the year, tranny, and {awd or fwd} in your profile under "about" and in your signature line.

I attached three manual sections that might help. More are available at Toyota Rav4 1996 Service and Repair Manual + Wiring | Cardiagn.com . Maybe start with document pages 18 and 24 (pdf pages 17 and 23) in the EWD section (attached). The circuit opening relay is part of the fuel pump motor's circuit.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

miles26, here are two other quick checks that I would do --

-- Can you check to see if the computer is throwing any codes (pending or otherwise)? For most 1997 and earlier Rav4s, you can use the data link connector 1 (DLC1) in the engine bay to check for codes. The connector is shown below:

Then use these videos to read the code(s):

-- Check the resistance of the ECT sensor when the engine is hot and when it is cold. The ECT sensor is shown below:

It is easy to unfasten the ECT sensor connector and do the check with a multimeter. Are the ohms consistent with the graph below?

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Without the jumper in place, and when you turn the key to the on position (but with the engine off), does the check engine light (CEL) come on (along with other lamp checks)?

When you want to check for codes, you are supposed to first turn the key to the on position (leaving the engine off) and afterwards jumper the TE1 and E1 terminals. Are you jumping the correct terminals?

Here is more on retrieving codes:

Toyota OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

If there are no codes, and following the steps above for retrieving codes, the CEL should blink continuously and evenly.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- Did you check to make sure the lamp for the check engine light (in the instrument cluster) is not burned out? You do this by turning the key to the second position (do not start the engine). Look at the lights on the dashboard. Is the CEL on?

-- If the battery gets below about 12.5 volts, this will be insufficient to cause the engine to start.

-- I think you are right to try swapping out the igniter with one that hopefully is functional.

-- Check the crankshaft position sensor's resistance:
985-1600 ohms when cold
1265-1890 ohms when hot

-- Check the resistance of the distributor's Signal Generator (a.k.a. pickup coil or camshaft position sensor, mounted in the distributor housing):
Cold 135 − 220 ohms
Hot 175 − 255 ohms

-- Check (again?) the ignition coil's resistances:
Primary coil resistance:
Cold 0.36 − 0.55 Ω
Hot 0.45 − 0.65 Ω

Secondary coil resistance:
Cold 9.0 − 15.4 kΩ
Hot 11.4 − 18.1 kΩ

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Miles, about this other part: Go to the 1996Rav4EWD file I attached, document page 29 ( = pdf page 28). There is an "ignition system noise filter" mounted next to the ignition coil. Search the file for the phrase "noise filter" and you will also see the noise filter on some schematics. The filter should have two wires connecting to it. I do not see a need to test the filter.

Are you using the 1996Rav4IG.pdf file I attached, pages IG-2, IG-4, and IG-5, to check the ignition coil? These pages have some drawings.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Having the ignition coil off the vehicle for testing is fine. Did you check that your multimeter probes were connected as described in the photo below?

What do you mean by "no signal"? Are you saying the multimeter indicated an open loop when connected to the positive + terminal and the high tension terminal?

Regarding reading codes: Your Rav4 may be set up for what is called OBD2. You would need a scanning tool to read the codes. A basic version of this tool costs around $15 on eBay. But I am not positive OBD2 is what you have. This is a longer discussion, unless someone else reading here wants to chime in.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Miles, thank you for the picture. The secondary winding resistance is normally between about 9000 ohms and 15,000 ohms. To check the secondary winding's resistance, you have to move the multimeter dial to the 20k ohm position (as in 20,000 ohms). The picture you posted shows the dial in the wrong position.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Yes, I would replace the ignition coil. The primary windings at 1.5 ohms are out of spec. The hotter those windings get, the higher the resistance. This could be the problem.

For the newbie interested in learning about modern multimeters: A continuity check with a digital multimeter will likely give the audible beeping for the primary winding but not for the secondary winding. Why? Because digital multimeters have an upper ohms limit for the audible beep continuity test. With my $20 Craftsman digital multimeter, and per the multimeter's specifications, I get the audible beeping (continuity present) whenever the resistance of the circuit being checked is below 60 ohms.

Always triple check that your settings on your multimeter are appropriate for what you are measuring. I have been using a multimeter casually for decades but still blew one up last year by being careless.

You're welcome.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

I am going to backpedal on that primary coil resistance reading. See this thread:
Ignition Coil Resistance? . I am not nearly as confident now that this is going to fix the no start.

Do keep in mind the battery voltage may now be too low to permit the Rav4 to start.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Are you saying you installed a new O-ring and oil is leaking from it? I am not sure I can really troubleshoot this over the net, but here's what I know:

It sounds like you are aware that one should keep carb cleaner away from plastics and rubbers. Hence: Do not use carb cleaner on distributors. I think it is possible you damaged the new O-ring.

For O-rings that are designed to come in contact with oil, I apply a touch of oil to the O-ring prior to installing.

I would not use any old O-ring for the distributor, either. The distributor O-ring sees fairly high temperatures. I think you want an O-ring made from Viton (a synthetic rubber that deals with high temps and oil well). It is a well-known material. Ask at your local auto parts store (if you have not already)? A store called Harbor Freight sells kits of multiple Viton O-ring sizes here in the United States for under $10 last I checked.

For removing built up grime, I use a popular cleaner called "Simple Green" a lot. One can adjust the concentration depending on the extent of the grime one is trying to clean off. Or letting it sit a half an hour or so eases cleaning. I bet Costa Rica has it.

I think distributor housings (or whole distributors) are worth replacing at least once in a long-lifed vehicle. For one, the bearings can start to fail. The camshaft position sensor wiring can degrade. But for now, stick with your current distributor housing.

At this point I am not hopeful that the new ignition coil is going to fix the problem. But if the ignition coil is old, then it's probably about due for replacement anyway.

Did you install a different igniter?

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Where did you get the O-ring? If it is not OEM, are you sure it fits right?

Best guess on the hole is that it is for venting the distributor cap region of gases and condensation. E.g.
"When the gap between the rotor blade and one of the cap towers is jumped or bridged by an electrical flow, ozone gases are created inside the cap. This is the primary reason vent holes are incorporated in distributors."
-- GM Distributor Cap Sets Off Misfire Code

 

[Elle_Rav4]

What do you think was the problem? Could it be the oil leaking into the distributor? The distributor wiring problem you found (said wiring connecting to the camshaft position sensor mounted in the distributor)? The igniter (that you said you might be replacing)? The distributor needing a good cleaning (including clearing the clogged hole)?

What is the status of the loose timing belt (about which you posted in another thread)?

You're welcome. Hopefully further driving shows the problem is either fixed or you are or on the path to full resolution

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- Miles, you posted:
"-- Crankshaft position sensor:
Cold 985 − 1,600 Ω = TBD
Hot 1,265 − 1,890 Ω = 1.5"

Is the 1.5 by any chance 1.5 k ohms = 1500 ohms?

-- The igniter is critical to the ignition system. I do not think you would get any helpful information by omitting it from the system. You might do some damage as well.

-- You do not have to reset the computer every time you swap the igniter and/or ignition coil.

-- I realize you are on a budget. Still I recommend buying both a new igniter and a new ignition coil. If you replace one of these, while the other part is old, then the new part is likely to have its life shortened. Years ago a certain Honda-specialized shop told me this when my old Honda Civic was having myriad distributor, igniter, and coil problems. I naively thought the shop was messing with me, to sell more parts than I needed. Then I confirmed with some online Honda folks that it is indeed prudent to change the igniter and ignition coil at the same time. Honda and Toyota (and other manufacturers') ignition setups in the 1990s were quite similar.

-- Keep in mind that inside the igniter are some serious electronics. Here is the inside of a circa 1990s Honda Civic igniter:

The coil puts out high voltages. High voltages + electronics + heat = a part that is not going to last forever. (This is just my rough take on things. But it is based in a some meaningful experience.)

-- Your igniter also has five connections. One of them is also to the tachometer. See the 1996Rav4EWD.pdf file, page 66.

-- From an amazing web site by a generous and old online acquaintance "John" (a.k.a. Tegger): "A bad igniter usually gives some warning with bizarre symptoms. Most commonly, the car will buck for a split second, like the engine has just missed. At the same time, the tach will fall to zero. The tach falling to zero as the engine loses power will definitively confirm that the igniter is going south, so watch carefully if your car seems to momentarily lose power. Another giveaway is that the Check Engine light will illuminate as the car stalls." This applies to Hondas but may also apply to Toyotas. See https://web.archive.org/web/2008082...20080828034334/http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/igniter-operation/badigniter.html and https://web.archive.org/web/20080826051003/http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/igniter-failure/index.html

-- The salvage yard parts are fine for quick diagnoses but to use the salvage yard igniter or ignition coil for the longer term is risky. I do not think these particular salvage yard parts (the coil and igniter, both well-used) will last long. Of course, you could carry spare salvage yard parts (ignition coil and igniter) and swap them out whenever you are out driving and get a no start. You are expert at swapping these parts out, right?That could be interesting. Years ago I remember carrying an old igniter around in my Honda as a back-up.

-- Rav4world[dot]com has a fair number of reports of failed igniters and coils for the Rav4.1 in the last several years. Igniters and coils are reaching the end of their lives.

-- If you want to experiment and do not want to buy both a new igniter and a new coil, I would try just a new igniter. At a minimum I think this promises further excellent education.

-- Here is some part info:
Igniter OEM #89621-26010 (replacing 89621-16020) $400 new OEM online. Under $150 aftermarket on eBay and at rockauto.com

Ignition Coil OEM #19500-74120 (hard to find at Toyota OEM online parts stores)
NGK #48582 Try an NGK for about $80 from eBay or $70 or so from rockauto.com. NGK and Denso are the original manufacturers for many Japanese auto manufacturers like Honda and Toyota.

-- Notice that the file 1996Rav4IG.pdf has a troubleshooting chart on page 2. It ends with replacing the igniter. Though I would not rule out the coil yet.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- Reports are that the EGR VSV on the 4WD is hard to remove. I think at this point the conventional wisdom is to just unplug its electrical connector and disconnect the two vacuum hoses. Leave the old EGR VSV in place ("RIP -- Rest in Peace" I think one guy commented).

-- I have seen a few different new locations used for the EGR VSV on the Rav4.1 A photo of where I put mine is here: egr vsv relocation .

-- Here are a couple of links I put in my notes as being particularly helpful:

VSV Vacuum Switching Valve Replacement Instructions

It's been quite some time since I posted here but I used to be fairly active and do a lot of lurking. My first car was a 2000 RAV4 that I loved but ended up selling eventually due to the high insurance and my terror of working on that tiny, cramped engine. Well, I'm a bit more seasoned now with...

www.rav4world.com

 

[Elle_Rav4]

I do not have any ideas about connecting this tool. You can search the site and there is likely some chatter on same. I do not think the fuel system is the cause of the problem.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- I would replace the coil and igniter with new ones.

-- What kind of spark plug wires did you buy? What is their resistance?

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- Miles, I would not do anything else until a new ignition coil and new igniter are installed.

-- With the filthy fuel filter I had in my tank awhile back, the Rav4 had little, noticeable hiccups when driving both at a steady speed and when accelerating. But I do not recall hesitation when starting.

-- There are spark plug wires out there that are advertised as "super low resistance." The manufacturers say they improve performance. They do not. Such wires can harm the vehicle's electrical systems. This is why I asked.

-- the fuel lines should hold pressure for at least several days. But I do not see fuel line problems causing the engine to shut down after driving awhile.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

-- What is the status of the distributor oil leak? Did you install the new oil seal and the new o-ring correctly?

-- Do you have a DLC3 (data link connector 3) that looks like what appears in the drawing on page 3 of the attachment? If so, find someone with the right tool and see if there are any codes. Or buy a tool for under $20 on eBay.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

Regarding reading codes on Costa Rican vehicles: It appears that only 2017 and later vehicles imported to Costa Rica are required to have OBD2. What may be confusing is that Costa Rican Rav4.1s may still have the OBD2 Data Link Connector 3 (DLC3, near the driver's right knee). According to what I am seeing on the net, the DLC3 on Costa Rican Rav4.1's may or may not be non-operative.

Some help with what different countries require for OBD appears at the following sites:

OBD Help – Elm Electronics

www.elmelectronics.com

Is My Car OBD2 Compatible and Supported by OBD Scanner/Software? | Car OBD Diagnostics, ECU Chip Tuning & Auto Repair Support

(I think Mick Hatzo may have mentioned this recently. Pardon any repetition.)

Update: miles26 wrote me in private that he recently got a hold of an OBD2 scanner and connected it to DLC3. It read one code, which he fixed easily. Evidently, his Costa Rican Rav4.1 is set up for reading OBD2 codes from DLC3.

 

[Elle_Rav4]

[...] was hoping the starting hesitation will go away.

Miles26 found the following was the cause of the starting hesitation:

Notice the damaged reluctor (mounted on the crankshaft sprocket). I surely would have missed this damage when troubleshooting and inspecting the sprocket. I keep in mind that the damaged sprocket/CKP reluctor did not throw a code. Miles26 persevered and nailed the problem. Now his Rav4 starts without hesitation.

For anyone else finding a damaged sprocket/CKP reluctor, the Toyota OEM part number is 13521-74040.