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Differential mount replaced

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2.1K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  RavCR  
#1 ·
I just finished replacing the front mount on my 96 mt rav. I replaced the rear one a few years ago and tried the polyurethane packing fixes on both, with no real improvement noticed to that nasty clunking driveline.
I got the front replacement for around $90 delivered to Wa. USA. from eBay, it looks to be good quality and it fit properly.
The task is not as difficult as many on this rav. (the timing belt end of the motor comes to mind) There are youtube vids and write ups fere on the forum. In my case I didn't have to remove the exhaust shield. I pulled the differential assembly rearwards to free up the longer bushing bolts by using a 'spanish windlass' to the rear towhook. Judicious pry bar persuasion put it back in place. To my surprise, Toyota took pity on future wrenchers here by making the diff. carrier bolts easily accessible.
There is still some slack in the driveline but it's much more acceptable. I postulate that stiffer urethane bushings around the differential might be better.
My removed mounting bracket was pathetic..you could wiggle the bushings easily though they looked whole.
Don Hanson
 
#3 ·
With the new mount I still get a clonk from the differential area if I'm over-ambitious with the clutch, but it's much better. There's hardly any "slack" (compared to how awful it was) when transitioning from gas on to gas off.
I did hand-rotate the drive shaft and felt a bit of play IN the rear end, so I guess that's another task I'm going to be doing..
That and the steering rack/lines/ have a nasty spewing leak that's oiled up the whole underside..And while I'm at it I'll finally square away all the center differential locking vacuum lines and valves so that actually functions dependably...
On and on....😋
 
#4 ·
Did you look if your rack is leaking where the steering wheel shaft connects? I guess it's common to leak around that seal. I thought for sure I had hose leaks given how the fluid gets everywhere. But my leak was just around the seal. The dust cap was like chewing gum. You can change it without pulling the rack. I pulled mine since I also replaced the hoses and tie rods. It's so tight in there and wanted to see what I was doing.

I changed the 4 mounts in line with the driveshaft thinking Id get the clunk gone. It's better but still there. I even packed the rear diff mounts with polyurethane. Wish I had done the two engine mounts, especially the rear one before I had installed it. When the car has weight in the back, I dont notice the clunk.