[Sugarkryptonite]

Looking to install one in mine...I called dealer about it last week referring to part #PU140-00900, gave him my VIN and he said the updated part # is PU140-00905 ...$99 CAD. I called back today, not sure if it was the same guy or not, but now he said PU140-00905 is discontinued and not available to order. On the other hand, he could get PU140-00902 in 2 days...not sure how that makes sense...he says they never order block heaters anymore, and that I shouldn't be using one the parts guy is a bit too opinionated for my taste...I digress.

On another note, has anyone installed an aftermarket one? Zerostart 3100129 is not technically said to be made for this engine, but I know some people have installed it into the 2GR-FE engine with no problems...

Also as for the grease, it is specified NSCG G-624 compliant. From what I see it's dielectric silicone grease compound. Wondering what the diff between that and something like Permatex 81150 Dielectric grease would be. Temp range on the Permatex is the same as Novagard G624 Dielectric Silicone Grease Compound, wich is -65F to +400F...seems more than enough to be in contact with the heater, but not sure what other properties it should have.

Anyone have any useful info?

 

[DL175]

I found an old thread that may helps locate the block heater hole. There are no pictures and appears long gone. If you find the hole post it.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

I found an old thread that may helps locate the block heater hole. There are no pictures and appears long gone. If you find the hole post it.

Thanks. I saw that thread before too. Too bad no pics. I have found the hole though and will try to get some pics to document the process!

 

[DL175]

Also as for the grease, it is specified NSCG G-624 compliant. From what I see it's dielectric silicone grease compound. Wondering what the diff between that and something like Permatex 81150 Dielectric grease would be. Temp range on the Permatex is the same as Novagard G624 Dielectric Silicone Grease Compound, wich is -65F to +400F...seems more than enough to be in contact with the heater, but not sure what other properties it should have.

This silicone grease will work and is bigger (almost 10x more) than the Permatex. Silicone grease has a high temperature rating and will prevent moisture inside the block heater hole. You can probably use it to grease the caliper slide pins also since it is safe for rubber and has the high temperature rating.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

This silicone grease will work and is bigger than the Permatex. Silicone grease has a high temperature rating and will prevent moisture inside the block heater hole. You can probably use it for the caliper slide pins also.

Yes that is the right stuff. I guess I should have mentioned that it was on amazon.com, so USA, and is not even available there, that's why I'm searching for alternatives.

EDIT: I ended up calling another Toyota dealership not too much further away, he told me the latest revision is PU140-00905, comes from Toronto, $90 CAD, comes with the grease and everything... Told him to order it. Should get here tomorrow or latest Monday.

 

[BugJr]

Yes that is the right stuff. I guess I should have mentioned that it was on amazon.com, so USA, and is not even available there, that's why I'm searching for alternatives.

EDIT: I ended up calling another Toyota dealership not too much further away, he told me the latest revision is PU140-00905, comes from Toronto, $90 CAD, comes with the grease and everything... Told him to order it. Should get here tomorrow or latest Monday.

What GTA dealer? I'd like to install one as well. Send me a PM if you do not want to publicly name the dealer. Thanks.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

What GTA dealer? I'd like to install one as well. Send me a PM if you do not want to publicly name the dealer. Thanks.

Actually I'm from Montreal. I'm pretty sure any dealer can get them. My dealer said it was coming from Toronto... Better for you I guess. They didn't end up receiving it on Friday... Stormy weather and all... Hoping Monday.

Part number was PU140-00905

 

[BugJr]

Actually I'm from Montreal. I'm pretty sure any dealer can get them. My dealer said it was coming from Toronto... Better for you I guess. They didn't end up receiving it on Friday... Stormy weather and all... Hoping Monday.

Part number was PU140-00905

Thanks. I guess I'll call around.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

Thanks. I guess I'll call around.

Cool. For reference, here is a picture I took today of the hole where it must be inserted. How will I get in there to actually put it in...no idea! I guess it could have been done while I had the driveshaft out, but really wanted to put that in this weekend to test my system...oh well. Hindsight is 20/20 right...I think it's possible to get to it from the driver's side wheel well if your arms are long enough.

This picture is from underneath the car, looking forward towards the engine bay.

 

[DL175]

It looks pretty easy to find once you know where it is. The hole looks very clean. Do you have car ramps or a floor jack with stands?

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

It looks pretty easy to find once you know where it is. The hole looks very clean. Do you have car ramps or a floor jack with stands?

Yup not too hard to find, but seemingly not easy to get to. Yes I had the car on ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear. Was doing drain & fills on the transfer case/rear diff and installing the new drive shaft I got this weekend.

 

[DL175]

Yup not too hard to find, but seemingly not easy to get to. Yes I had the car on ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear. Was doing drain & fills on the transfer case/rear diff and installing the new drive shaft I got this weekend.

Well don't worry if you missed putting the block heater on. Doing the t/c, r/d and driveshaft is time consuming so doing everything right is the most important thing. Ensuring not to over fill is critical since that could be a costly mistake which can lead to the seals leaking.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

Well don't worry if you missed putting the block heater on. Doing the t/c, r/d and driveshaft is time consuming so doing everything right is the most important thing. Ensuring not to over fill is critical since that could be a costly mistake if the seals leak.

You're exactly right! It was a long weekend. I had put a level on the rocker panel lip to make sure the car was level before I started adding fluid to both...pumped it in until it was overflowing out the fill hole...new crush washers all around. Hope I ended up doing it right...only time will tell. Crossing my fingers. Thanks for all your help. ?

 

[DL175]

You're exactly right! It was a long weekend. I had put a level on the rocker panel lip to make sure the car was level before I started adding fluid to both...pumped it in until it was overflowing out the fill hole...new crush washers all around. Hope I ended up doing it right...only time will tell. Crossing my fingers. Thanks for all your help. ?

Looks like you did yours right and I almost screwed my r/d drain and fill. I rounded the fill bolt and I did not fill on a level surface. (filled when half the car was jacked up) I had to get another fill bolt and empty a tiny bit of gear oil. There is nothing worst then doing things for the first time and finding errors.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

Looks like you did yours right and I almost screwed my r/d drain and fill. I rounded the fill bolt and I did not fill on a level surface. I had to get another fill bolt and empty a tiny bit of gear oil. There is nothing worst then doing things for the first time and finding errors.

You're right about that! At least you realized the issue after and corrected it. I noticed my fill bolt on my rear diff was messed up, too! Someone had used an air hammer or a chisel to get it off or something in the past...looked like it had been through a world war lol. Looks to be sealing for now.

On the note of the driveshaft...I was at it last night, crawling around on the ground, put the back on first, put a nut on one of the studs, then tried to get the front to go on...a couple studs went through the holes on the u joint, then it got jammed up, I couldn't get it off! Then I was looking at the holes closer, and noticed that one of the holes was much smaller than the other 3 (on the u joint), so no way it would go on all the way. Had to take it out (that sucked), and examine it more.

They had applied too much paint to the darn thing! I should have checked it before I crawled under the car but didn't think of it...after grinding it off and drilling the hole back to the same size as the others, I crawled back under and finally managed to put it in the car...I have to say tightening the front u joint nuts SUCKS! So yeah...like you said, sometimes doing things twice is all a part of the game, right?

 

[DL175]

Well my hats off to you for doing the driveshaft install. I got mine installed by a mechanic. I hate doing work under the car especially removing many bolts. My neck gets too sore. I watched the mechanic do the install. With a lift it make it a piece of cake taking it off and putting it on. The mechanic had a helper holding it when it was put back on.

 

[Legion]

Yup not too hard to find, but seemingly not easy to get to. Yes I had the car on ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear. Was doing drain & fills on the transfer case/rear diff and installing the new drive shaft I got this weekend.

When I installed my block heater (V6 also) I removed the driver side wheel to gain access to the hole. The install was very easy to do and you do not need to have exceptionally long arms for the job

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

When I installed my block heater (V6 also) I removed the driver side wheel to gain access to the hole. The install was very easy to do and you do not need to have exceptionally long arms for the job

Awesome! Thanks a lot for posting.

I couldn't find that info anywhere online. Hopefully I will take some pictures when I do the install so we can post a new guide here. The other one has its pictures missing.

 

[Sugarkryptonite]

Hello,

I have installed the block heater yesterday. I put the drivers side front up on a jackstand, took the wheel off, and snaked my arm into the hole between the body and the subframe. I then felt around to find the hole, close to the exhaust manifold. After I found the hole and practiced multiple times finding it, I lubed up the heater with the provided grease and slid it into the hole. I then fed the wire down from the top engine bay, and was then again able to snake my arm through the driver's side wheel well and connect the wire to the heater.

I then removed the upper air box from its mounts/engine, and pivoted it up out of the way. This gave me a lot of room to tyrap the wire into place. In hindsight installing the heater from above with the airbox removed might be easier, as you are almost right above it.

For future reference, at the time of purchase,

Part no: PU140-00905 (Canadian part #)
Price: $90 CAD + tax

 

[DL175]

Looks good. The install is simple and we now have the pictures for anyone to follow.