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how to remove the rear diff mount

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33K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  neodagzph  
#1 ·
hi guys .
what is the best way to remove the rear diff mount. i have replaced the rear and want to replace the front one also. looks like to have to drop the gas tank to have room to get the bolts out. or drop the whole mount the diff sits in. thanks.
 
#4 ·
Part numbers:
52380-42082 (rear)
52380-42071 (front)

The rear diff mount is cake. Put a jack on the diff, remove 4 bolts. Replace mount.

The front mount can be replaced in under an hour. I did it by disconnecting the muffler, moving the exhaust over. Unbolting the sub-frame from the car. Remove one trailing A-arm to give me a little more flexibility. Remove the rear mount. And remove drive shaft (if I recall right). The nose of the diff will come down enough to get at it...

Replacing one mount works if your rear just started clunking. If it's been clunking a worn out rear mount literally wears the rubber (too much throw) in the front mount...

I've reproduced these and with the help of some Rav4world members, went through the process of installing bushings... Eventually we decided that most people want to replace the entire mount, as shops were charging more than what I charge for the entire mount, just to replace the bushings...

cb1000rider@yahoo.com

Here's my page on this stuff - just photos of what we've been working on:
My Pics
 
#3 ·
Rather than disturb the fuel tank, I moved the diff frame back. I can't say that I would recommend this tho. It was a real bear to get it back far enough and then back into place. And afterwards, a 4-wheel alignment is a must. The bolt holes allow too much movement to be sure it's in the same place when you're done.
 
#6 ·
Mark, it's related.

What's happening is shown in this video:


It's usually a combination of mount fatigues - meaning the rear mount gets worn, it causes a lot of flexibility in the front mount, which then gets worn out, and you get that bang/clunk on hard shifts. Sometimes the motor mounts can contribute.

I don't think I've ever heard of this problem blowing up the driveline, so I think (in general) that it's just annoying. To fix it, I recommend replacing both the front and rear mounts - and I'm not trying to upsell you here, I honestly can tell you that replacing one doesn't usually get it done. Again, see the video, the entire nose of that diff is shifting around and causing a clunk.
 
#8 ·
Changing the rear mount is cake. 15 minutes. You need a jack.
The front mount is a pain and clearly there are several ways to get it out. I've done it once myself and once paid someone to do it. Both times, about 45 minutes.

I did it by:
1) Drop the exhaust out of the way , rear muffler to the side, remove rear subframe from the unibody, remove one control arm, this gives you enough room to get the front mount out...

It may not be the only way or the best way.

If you need the mounts, please email - I'm not on the forum much: cb1000rider@yahoo.com