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… Por lo general, sucede cuando esta válvula se pone en cortocircuito.
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I believe it short-circuits because the plastic casing cracks and coolant seeps into the wire connector, based on a video I just saw on utube. I wonder if a bead of JB Weld around the casing can prevent the cracking in the first place.
 
Bring it to the dealer? Probably not. But thanks for asking. I’m retired on a fixed income. I have a huge collection of tools but not uncommitted income. I’ve been fixing cars since I was 12. DIY is my preferred mode. What really annoyed me is that this part’s failure is a simple matter of electrical parts & antifreeze don’t mix. It’s not up to the task. And with as many that fail before 50K miles there should be a bulletin or a recall on this component. It’s also annoying that this component is a replacement for a simple hole in the thermostat that has been used successfully for decades to allow limited radiator flow while warming up the engine. To any of you who are still reading who asked; one of the hose clamps was absurdly inaccessible & uncutable without a lift or cutting into surrounding components. So I chose to replace just the sensor rather than the entire assembly I bought. The hose is pressed on at the bottom & destroying the hose is very possible if you try to disassemble it. I got lucky. The clamp difficulty, distal to the sensor, might have been exclusive to my make & model,2019 rav4 xle. Someone posted a series of pics that showed the clamp problem perfectly. I’m expecting the new sensor to fail in the next 50k. The motor might last for 300k miles but the sensors are garbage.
its a real pain in the but so if you buy the 40 dollar kit off Amazon for hose pliers about 8 piece kit it will make the job easier someone said earlier step stool in the front is the best way to get that hose clamp off I totally agree clear your schedule it’s gonna take a while and you will need to remove the driver side tire to gain access to the second clamp in my best guess is to start with the easy stuff ( as if) you top then fight the last clamp on the bottom the longer hose clamp remover with the wire is going to be your best friend on this one it’s completely inaccessible without it from your driveway with that said you also need to do the bleed procedure afterwards to make sure you have purged all the air out of the lines so you can correct the initial problem getting coolant to the top of the head where the combustion takes place car care nut did a video about 10 months ago on the bleed procedure for a 2.5 4 cylinder engine follow his instructions to a tee and you will have no problem you will need a spill proof funnel for anyone attempting this
 
My 2019 rav4(66k km) has this same issue. after taking it to the dealership they had no idea what was going on, and claimed without a Engine light showing it makes no sense.

I'm considering doing this work myself, but will check first to see if its covered under the extended warranty i purchased (Doubt it)

does anyone know the part number for the Coolant Bypass Valve with the hose assembly connected? iv been trying to find one online but am struggling.
 
Hello to the forum!. I am here like everyone else that is having issues with the engine coolant bypass valve. I don't have an issue with the maintenance replacement piece, but my question is: I would like to know if someone could assist and speak on if the vehicle can still be driven with this valve not working correctly? Does it or could it cause damage to the engine? if I leave the AC off, the maintenance service light never returns. and as soon as the AC is activated the maintenance light returns. I have looked high and low and it may have been in the thread at some point, but again just checking aboard here and reaching out to those that have been on here for a while contributing to this thread. appreciate the help. 2020 RAV4 XLE Premium, 21K miles. Additionally, parts have been ordered and Toyota stated that they are on backorder EDD unknown at this point in time. reason for the question. Thanks everyone!
 
I would like to know if someone could assist and speak on if the vehicle can still be driven with this valve not working correctly? Does it or could it cause damage to the engine?
2020 RAV4 XLE Premium, 21K miles.
Welcome to the forum and sorry for your bypass valve failure. 21K miles is one of the lowest mileage failures I have seen posted. I think it is safe and OK to continue to drive the RAV with a malfunctioning coolant bypass valve AS LONG AS THERE IS NO VISIBLE COOLANT LEAK from the valve and as long as the HEATER STILL WORKS. I say that the heater must work and get hot because this proves and confirms that the valve has failed and is STUCK IN THE OPEN POSITION. The open position is important because that means that the coolant flow coming from the engine into the cabin and also flowing from the bypass valve through its long lower hose to the trans component and back into the engine is proper and not blocked. The only negative or bad thing for the engine from a failed bypass valve is slower cold start warm up time--so you will get worse MPGs and long term (months/years?) increased possible carbon fouling of plugs and combustion chamber. I guess you might also have some stumbling and rough running in very cold weather on start up.
 
. I think it is safe and OK to continue to drive the RAV with a malfunctioning coolant bypass valve AS LONG AS THERE IS NO VISIBLE COOLANT LEAK
Now some guys out of necessity DO continue to drive RAVs, Camrys and Corollas with hairline cracks in malfunctioning bypass valves that show slight coolant leaks. You do what you've got to do. But is it a good idea? What if that valve shattered and let all the coolant out of the engine while you are on the freeway? Then you've got a blown head gasket and a destroyed engine in a very short time. If you simply have got to drive with a hairline crack in the valve that's leaking, inspect it before every start up. Carry spare Toyota pink pre-mixed coolant. Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir level. Bitch at the dealer to get that replacement valve quick--parts shortage be dam**d!
 
Welcome to the forum and sorry for your bypass valve failure. 21K miles is one of the lowest mileage failures I have seen posted. I think it is safe and OK to continue to drive the RAV with a malfunctioning coolant bypass valve AS LONG AS THERE IS NO VISIBLE COOLANT LEAK from the valve and as long as the HEATER STILL WORKS. I say that the heater must work and get hot because this proves and confirms that the valve has failed and is STUCK IN THE OPEN POSITION. The open position is important because that means that the coolant flow coming from the engine into the cabin and also flowing from the bypass valve through its long lower hose to the trans component and back into the engine is proper and not blocked. The only negative or bad thing for the engine from a failed bypass valve is slower cold start warm up time--so you will get worse MPGs and long term (months/years?) increased possible carbon fouling of plugs and combustion chamber. I guess you might also have some stumbling and rough running in very cold weather on start up.
Appreciate the feedback. From what I have tested, yes the heat still works and I no visible leaks or changes in the characteristics of the vehicle operation. I will go easy on it until I can get this valve replaced. thanks again!
 
Now some guys out of necessity DO continue to drive RAVs, Camrys and Corollas with hairline cracks in malfunctioning bypass valves that show slight coolant leaks. You do what you've got to do. But is it a good idea? What if that valve shattered and let all the coolant out of the engine while you are on the freeway? Then you've got a blown head gasket and a destroyed engine in a very short time. If you simply have got to drive with a hairline crack in the valve that's leaking, inspect it before every start up. Carry spare Toyota pink pre-mixed coolant. Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir level. Bitch at the dealer to get that replacement valve quick--parts shortage be dam**d!
I will add that the mounting location for this valve is less than ideal. After starting the engine there is a noticeable vibration that shakes that area significantly with AC/heat active or inactive. I also have a 2022 Camry XSE with the same engine and it has identical traits that the RAV4 has with operation as far as the shaking and vibrations. one more thing to keep an eye on for that vehicle as well. if I were Toyota I would look at an alternate mounting location for this valve or make a vibration isolator or something. no wonder there is such a high failure rate.
 
if I were Toyota I would look at an alternate mounting location for this valve or make a vibration isolator or something. no wonder there is such a high failure rate.
If you read earlier posts you would see the RAV4 valve mounting location also makes it annoyingly, difficult to replace without using a mirror and hose clamp pliers. The valve fails not because of vibration ( which probably does contribute somewhat to failure) but because that coolant bypass valve is a plastic Piece of SH*T! The valve can fail three ways: 1.There is a coil spring inside that works the actual valving and the spring jams, breaks or the electrical connection to it breaks. 2. The plastic gets internal cracks that leak coolant into the electrical wiring connector to the valve which corrodes or shorts out. 3. The plastic gets external cracks that leak coolant into the engine bay.
 
Bypass Valve and hose (16260-F0010) received from Toyota today, with an install time of 1.5 hours.

I did not make a video, but I did take pictures along the way, so I hope that this helps others that are attempting to tackle on their own . I am not a certified auto mechanic but am an aircraft mechanic, so I am no stranger to working in constricted areas. This is how I removed and installed this part. I did not use the manual, as it is pretty straight fwd. I can't see why the dealer would charge so much for this
Here we go!




Common hand Tool used :
Flat Head Screw driver
3/8 Ratchet
10mm and 12mm socket
Pliers

Looking at the back portion of the valve.
There are the two 12mm bolts that need removed. Remove Bottom bolt first. once this is out you can maneuver that valve out of the way enough to get to the top bolt then remove.
I did not disconnect the wire connector on the coolant valve until the bolts were out. did this so that you can manipulate it enough to see the clip on the wire connector and depress without breaking.


Next remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket that supports the O2 sensor wire. Note: take caution when removing this as it is torqued on there pretty good, the bracket started to bend a little before the bolt broke loose. if you can zoom in there is a small groove at the top that this sits in so be mindful when reinstalling this. once disconnected just set to the side out of your way.




Disengage the white C clip from the top of the valve.
this clip to me seemed extremely flimsy so be gentle while pushing it back. I did use my small flat head to put into the back side of the clip (arrow shows location) and gently give it some pressure to disengage the clip. Once clip is disengaged apply small pressure (to the valve) and the hose connection will separate from the valve.


(Upper Hose Clamp)
From there I moved onto the dreaded clamps for the upper/lower hose. as other have stated you can not fit your head in there. I was able to position my left arm on the back side of the engine bay and get my pliers on the clamp with some patience and several attempts finally was able to pull it back enough to be able to loosen the hose. I did not pull off the hose as fluid would be everywhere, so I just loosened it enough until I was ready on the bottom. I was trying to limit the fluid loss.

on the installation I was able to get my right hand on the back side of the clamp and slide the clamp back over to end of the hose and in the orange mark area on the hose all while squeezing the clamp with my left hand. good luck.

(Lower Hose Clamp)
I tried laying across the engine, but that was not working. This is what I did and I did not have to remove the left front tire, the fender well cover or the battery. if you look on the left bottom part of the engine bay laying on the ground aft of the left front tire there is a small enough gap to access the lower hose and get some tools in there to remove the clamp. it will be a crap shoot to know which way the clamp was installed for each vehicle, but my clamp ears were facing down as seen in the picture and I was able to easily grab loosen and then get ready for the disconnection.

At this point Both metal clamps are off, white clip and connection point on valve is disconnected.
There are two plastic hose clips on the lower part of the line. One down by the lower clamp (just a C looking clamp support) and then half way up the line where two other lines are running parallel with the coolant hose.

Be gentle with this one as it is thin. I used my flat head added some light pressure on the plastic clamp top side center and it comes apart. The coolant hose is in the center position and will need to be fed through this clamp when removed then reverse this process on the installation.



Amount of fluid that was captured in the pan after hoses where disconnected. I bought two gallons of fluid, but only used about 3/4 of the bottle to fill everything back up. so did not need the second bottle. everything is topped off. maintenance advisory on dash is gone. Heat and AC are solid.

RAV is Back to operational status.
Overall, most difficult was the top clamp, I lucked out on the lower side. I did leave with some battle wounds.
but overall not that difficult, just need a lot of patience.

Hope this helps someone out there. Let me know if anyone has any questions.

Also, if this pictures are unclear and you want to see more detailed ones I can repost them.

Thanks!
 
I ask myself the following question: the valve almost always breaks in the same place, why we do not place an epoxy type glue but for plastic. Brand J-B.
It doesn't seem to be the electrical circuit of the valve that is in question, but rather a weakness in the plastic.

I am wrong?
Yes--you are wrong. Coolant Bypass Valve can break in 3 ways: 1. internal leak through crack in plastic gets inside and corrodes the electrical contacts and connection to valve 2. External leak through crack in plastic leaks coolant from the valve down the back of engine 3. inside the valve the spring fails to open or shut the "flapper".
 
My daughter's 2020 Corolla just gave this message. Would this be covered by the 5yr/60k drivetrain warranty?
Depends on the error code, which is P268115 for this bypass valve, and should be covered. They will tell you when they read the error code(s).
Probably not. It would be covered only under the BASIC 3 year warranty. Bypass valve is technically part of the climate control system--not the power train.
As expected, the dealer will not cover it under warranty. They want $856.20 to replace. Likely will do it ourselves. Any recommendations on where to get the part?

Image
 
Any recommendations on where to get the part?

 
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