[BeatupVR4]

Having seen your thread that makes it much easier to install a set of components with a passive crossover which would have been my preferred method. For a 1" tweeter I think that was a great method. And hiding the crossover underneath it. Just don't love it for the 3.5".

Couple observations from last night and this morning after an hour long drive each on the V1 mount. Musically it sounds great but with the much more sealed chamber there is some really unpleasant resonance in the lower speaking frequencies. This really pops up on NPR or talk radio, weather, traffic. That being said on my V3 mount I added a hole for the factory plug to go through and I also really tightened up the diameter to the point were the terminals hit the inside wall just before the driver lays flat so I added a "port" to that area both for clearance and to try to eliminate the resonance. I also added some angle and height to get the driver more closely positioned to the stock tweeter. That's what I get for not modeling the stupid terminals. Firing up the printer now!

I also found a rattle that's been annoying me for a year+. The cable for the door latch rattles against the inner door skin where it goes through it. With the door panel on it almost sounds like it's coming from the upper B pillar but with it off it's very clear it's lower. I shoved a napkin in there on the ride home and it was completely silent. If anyone has a similar rattle take a peak there. I'll be foaming the other side too when I get there.

 

[BeatupVR4]

V2.5 fits SUPER well and feels very solid. 4 hours left on the V3 print. I'm thinking I might have to clearance the top part of the baffle to let the door panel slide on but I'll have to take a look at it when I get home.

 

[BeatupVR4]

I didn't scope it but @SoNic67 did some testing and my uncalibrated ear agrees with his results. It looks(sounds) like the crossover point is 500ish for the lower woofer. It barely plays voice. I will assume the tweeter gets 500 and up and that seems to check out to the ear as well. The 3.5" woofer isn't filtered on the speaker so it's trying to play whatever it's given. Judging by the sound and excursion 500ish sounds about right. It's naturally rolling off at higher frequency and there is a cap in series with the tweeter for a basic first order high pass filter. I didn't check the value as it's under heat shrink but for a 1 inch tweeter it's in the 2500 Hz range for sure. So instead of a weird two way with a larger than normal tweeter and a lower than usual crossover this setup is basically a 3 way. Woofer 0-500, midrange 500-rollover, tweeter 2500-20k.

 

[BeatupVR4]

Finally able to get some more time into this. On like the 5th print I finally got the driver centered in the stock grill as much as possible and still have the beefiest mount and still be able to fit the door panel back on.

8 hours and I'll have the final version pair.

To update a previous comment about tuning out resonance it ends up that was the stock JBL woofer. I had the "tweeter" disconnected for a few days and the resonance was still there. Apparently the JBL woofer gets really pissed without the door panel on.

I'll update with final pictures but I'm confident in these so if anyone is interested in a set feel free to PM me. Hopefully will get them wrapped up this weekend but there's some rain on the forecast and I'm waiting on one more pack of sound deadening.

 

[BeatupVR4]

Are the JBL speakers you put in the front coaxial? As in do they have a built in tweeter in the center? If so for a non-JBL system I would probably just use those and remove the stock tweeters. Or like @KTL did install a set of separate components with an external crossover and both drivers in the stock locations.

You could possibly run something like this and your JBL 6.5s in parallel but that would give you a 1.5 ohm nominal impedance and I'm not sure if your amp could handle that. Too many unknown variables to make a recommendation really.

This is more for someone with the JBL system that would like it to be more bolt in and not have to worry about fabbing anything up themselves. I will say it's highly recommended as it makes a large difference in clarity and top end for <$100.

 

[BeatupVR4]

Well ALMOST got these installed this weekend. For the passenger side mount I just mirrored it in the slicer and while it printed and looked beautiful the access hole for the terminals wasn't lined up anymore so it wouldn't work. 😄 I made a whole new model for the passenger side and it's printing up now. I got the drivers door all sound deadened and back together though. I used up some previous Noico 80 mil and the new Siless 80 mil and "Pro" that they offer.

Fit's really well and is nice and lined up in the grill. (which didnt' photograph well at all)

It was so nice out Saturday I also got the rear end deadened.

Not shown I also got super far up into the D pillars which made a HUGE difference. Placed the 80 mil right over the tiny factory square and the "pro" over that. If no one has ever had that back lower carpet out of the storage hole the bottom floor is basically a drum. You NEED to do that area if you are going to do anything. You can see the spray out deadening that Toyota used which actually works pretty good. I didn't do much of the wheel wells as it's double or triple panels and is very solid. The cross brace between wheel wells is also very solid but the floor in front of that(behind the rear seats) where the hidden plastic cubby is was horrendously loud. I did squares of 80 mil between the factory stuff and then a whole strip of 80 over everything. Also not shown is the fuel fill panel area on the left was pretty loud so that got the 80 and Pro also. Also did the rear door some more.

I'll be doing the passenger door with the 3.5 install ASAP and the rear doors eventually. Just the one door and back done made a very noticeable difference. I'm probably going to leave the floor under the seats alone for now and use the left over on my girlfriends Forester and it's also pretty loud and she couldn't believe the difference it made in the Rav.

As for the tweeter mounts I'd totally sell sets. I'm printing them out of carbon filled PETG for the stiffness and temp resistance and they are 8 hours of printer time so $20 a set plus shipping ($8 USPS flat rate box?) and they are yours. I know they will fit the Infinitys I used and probably both versions of JBL available too. I used the RED WOLF adapters off Amazon and they fit perfect.