[NoMoreDomestic]

I've read a few posts through the years and seems like 76 lb ft (per the manual) is preferred. Great, no big deal.

What size the hex heads? Are they SAE or Metric. My 13/16" seems to fit quite appropriately (the same socket I've been using on wheels since the dawn of time). Otherwise perhaps they are a 21mm hex?
What is your preferred lugnut socket. I know there are some specific lugnut sockets these days with protection not to damage the wheels. That hasn't concerned me in the past, however the well is pretty narrow and it won't take much to scratch the glossy black finish.

I checked torque on my wheels (new car), they all clicked off the torque wrench easily at 76 lb ft.... I may raise the vehicle and loosen/torque. Thinking perhaps they are over-torqued. Or spun up by air.... unless the dealership actually torques the wheels but I don't suspect they do that.

Also, my XSE came with the lovely factory installed locks. I'm considering just getting 4 lug nuts from the dealership (OEM matching) to bypass a lock key. I haven't had a locking nut for 10 years. Or more. Do any of you on purpose replace locking nuts with a standard nut?

 

[Big Daddy]

When I replaced my lug nuts I went down to Can Tire in here in Canada, they have the correct size loaded on their computer system, they get beat up over time using a torque wrench, I don't worry about that but with your nice finish wheels I can see you would want to be carefull. Perhaps placing & removing them by a hand socket would be the way to go.

 

[DL175]

On my vehicle 13/16 fits better than 21 mm. The lock nuts only works with 21 mm. If you use an impact wrench use the 13/16 because it will not be as loose as 21mm.

 

[wishk]

Also, my XSE came with the lovely factory installed locks. I'm considering just getting 4 lug nuts from the dealership (OEM matching) to bypass a lock key. I haven't had a locking nut for 10 years. Or more. Do any of you on purpose replace locking nuts with a standard nut?

I did. They're inexpensive and I found the locks extremely annoying when doing tire changes. I was actually surprised to find them on my car, I always filed those as a sleazy upsell. It's not like thieves are going to take off wheels without some tools and in that case, they'll certainly also bring tools to defeat locks. Not that anyone would bother stealing base model RAV4 wheels around here anyway.

 

[Turtlepowa]

If you don't want to splurge on one of the plastic walled sockets, I've wrapped painters tape around a deep chrome socket and that's worked well

 

[FKHeath]

If you don't want to splurge on one of the plastic walled sockets, I've wrapped painters tape around a deep chrome socket and that's worked well

This is what I got. Not plastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DV91P18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

I personally do remove my wheels by hand (no air tools). I will use my drill (if I am home) to spin them off/on once they are broke free. Then torque with a wrench at home of course.
I know in time the lug nuts will get beat up and I'll need to be careful with instruction when I run it in to a shop for whatever reason. My local front end alignment shop is all about speed and air tools.
As long as the wheels don't get scratched I think we'll be alright. ha!

I don't know if the finish on the lugnuts with the black wheels are standard, but an off brand may not match. I know I could find a working lug nut probably anywhere.

 

[Turtlepowa]

This is what I got. Not plastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DV91P18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PP + TPR is basically plastic. I don't know why you want to debate that, it's not a bad thing. I have one of these special sockets from a different brand by the way, they're all the same, and it feels a heck of a lot like plastic.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

So the lug nuts are 21mm then?

Figured a 21 would be on the loose side if my worn out 12-pt socket fits comfortably.

 

[wishk]

I couldn't find any official spec but I think they are 21mm. I remember having to pull the nuts out of a brand new 6 sided 13/16 socket. 13/16 is 20.6375 so it's really really close.

 

[Salmon]

By the way those "lock nuts" with a race pattern in them that matches a "key" socket are generally very easy to remove without special tools. We used to call them screwdriver nuts because all it would take is the right size flat blade screwdriver to remove them (for customers - I worked in a shop). So in my opinion it is not worth spending money on them.

 

[Sienna1]

I couldn't find any official spec but I think they are 21mm. I remember having to pull the nuts out of a brand new 6 sided 13/16 socket. 13/16 is 20.6375 so it's really really close.

21mm but the 13/16” has a snugger fit. That can equate to a little struggle sometimes.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

By the way those "lock nuts" with a race pattern in them that matches a "key" socket are generally very easy to remove without special tools. We used to call them screwdriver nuts because all it would take is the right size flat blade screwdriver to remove them (for customers - I worked in a shop). So in my opinion it is not worth spending money on them.

Well, I didn't buy the locking nut. Kidding -that was a factory add-on that they would never sell otherwise. Maybe I can sell the set for the cost of one lugnut!
For the trouble they are worth, I'd rather pay for the real lug nuts, I'm hoping they aren't more than $15/ea. I bet they want $30.

 

[wishk]

For the trouble they are worth, I'd rather pay for the real lug nuts, I'm hoping they aren't more than $15/ea. I bet they want $30.

Surprisingly, no. I paid $3 a piece at the dealership in Canada.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

Surprisingly, no. I paid $3 a piece at the dealership in Canada.

Right, I found them online at a Toyota shop for about the same cost. It doesn't identify the color though....
I'll probably run over to the dealership this afternoon to order a few things as long as they have pricing similar to what I see online.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

Quick update for folks.

I removed the wheels today to replace the lock nut with a regular lug nut.

I forgot I had a brand new 6-pt 13/16" that I bought for lugnuts on my truck.
I busted that out today for the work then learned the special tool for the wheel lock is not 13/16", guess it is for sure 21mm. I like the 6-pt socket for the lug nuts, it's a bit snug. Considering they only require 76 lb ft of torque, a 21mm is probably fine. I may buy one just to have in the tool box.

So if anybody has the factory installed wheel lock, you will need the 21mm. My old 12-pt 13/16" barely fit on enough for a one time use (I marred up the corners of the tool with one of the more tight nuts). I ended up getting out the tire iron. Wow is that thing a shorty! Again, the nuts don't require a lot of torque.

 

[BJames]

It seems more sense that it's 21mm being Toyota is a Japanese company and that country uses the metric system.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

It seems more sense that it's 21mm being Toyota is a Japanese company and that country uses the metric system.

Country of origin doesn't dictate the fasteners used.
Most all automakers have been using metric for very many years, with exception to chassis components. Like steering and suspension, SAE. In recent years (not sure how recently), suspension, etc has switched to metric as well.
Included in the chassis spec were the lug nuts -Back in the 80's I was reaching for a 10mm for fender clips and a 13/16" socket to change lug nuts on the same car.

 

[EL_CID]

I've read a few posts through the years and seems like 76 lb ft (per the manual) is preferred. Great, no big deal.

What size the hex heads? Are they SAE or Metric. My 13/16" seems to fit quite appropriately (the same socket I've been using on wheels since the dawn of time). Otherwise perhaps they are a 21mm hex?
What is your preferred lugnut socket. I know there are some specific lugnut sockets these days with protection not to damage the wheels. That hasn't concerned me in the past, however the well is pretty narrow and it won't take much to scratch the glossy black finish.

I checked torque on my wheels (new car), they all clicked off the torque wrench easily at 76 lb ft.... I may raise the vehicle and loosen/torque. Thinking perhaps they are over-torqued. Or spun up by air.... unless the dealership actually torques the wheels but I don't suspect they do that.

Also, my XSE came with the lovely factory installed locks. I'm considering just getting 4 lug nuts from the dealership (OEM matching) to bypass a lock key. I haven't had a locking nut for 10 years. Or more. Do any of you on purpose replace locking nuts with a standard nut?

Just my .02 since I used to calibrate tools for a living about 6 months ago. We adjusted the air tool and checked the break away with a torque wrench to determine at what torque spec the gun would stop. Most if not all places that put tires on, do not adjust or can't adjust their tools and is totally reliant on the tech to stop it when it is goodntight. Basically, if the tech tightens a lug to 100lbs, your torque wrench will click at 76lbs with no problem as it is set to click when it measures 76lbs. I have watched several tires get put on and the tech will air tool the nut down and follow with a click wrench. Makes you feel good that they are torqueing the lugs down. But they may have over tightened the lugs to begin with and they are just going through the motions. If it makes you feel better (and it should), loosen your lugs and if you have an air tool, just snug them up and tighten the rest of the way with the torque wrench. Also, when you tighten a lug with a click wrench and it clicks, that is it. To make it click a second and third time is not just ensuring that it is tight, you are continuing to over torque with each click. Nothing major, but it is continuing to tighten with each additional click. What I am getting at is that just because your torque wrench clicked at 76lbs when you were checking doesn't mean they are at 76lbs, it just means they aren't at 70lbs.

 

[NoMoreDomestic]

Just my .02 since I used to calibrate tools for a living about 6 months ago. We adjusted the air tool and checked the break away with a torque wrench to determine at what torque spec the gun would stop. Most if not all places that put tires on, do not adjust or can't adjust their tools and is totally reliant on the tech to stop it when it is goodntight. Basically, if the tech tightens a lug to 100lbs, your torque wrench will click at 76lbs with no problem as it is set to click when it measures 76lbs. I have watched several tires get put on and the tech will air tool the nut down and follow with a click wrench. Makes you feel good that they are torqueing the lugs down. But they may have over tightened the lugs to begin with and they are just going through the motions. If it makes you feel better (and it should), loosen your lugs and if you have an air tool, just snug them up and tighten the rest of the way with the torque wrench. Also, when you tighten a lug with a click wrench and it clicks, that is it. To make it click a second and third time is not just ensuring that it is tight, you are continuing to over torque with each click. Nothing major, but it is continuing to tighten with each additional click. What I am getting at is that just because your torque wrench clicked at 76lbs when you were checking doesn't mean they are at 76lbs, it just means they aren't at 70lbs.

Sorry. My post was poorly written and confusing.
I wasn't asking for how to use a torque wrench, I've been working on vehicles for 30+ years. Again, my wording made it sounds like I don't how to use tools.

Note: I'm no longer participating in this forum. I'm logging out for the final time Monday (when I boot up my work computer that has me already logged in to the forum).